Africa - The Travel Sista

Top 8 Things to do in Swaziland

June 25, 2016 by thetravelsista 3 Comments

Swaziland is the smallest country in the Southern hemisphere, with a population of 1.2 million people. It’s also one of the last remaining executive monarchies in Africa. Although it is not a popular tourist destination, it should be due to its stunning landscapes, wildlife reserves, and rich cultural heritage. Its close proximity to South Africa (just a 3.5 to 4-hour drive from Johannesburg), make it an easy add-on trip. Here’s my list of the Top Eight Things to Do there.

Mantenga Nature Reserve and Falls

Though small in size, this protected area is a nature lover’s dream, with hiking trails, wildlife, wooded areas and waterfalls. The Mantenga Falls are Swaziland’s best known falls and the largest by volume of water. Visitors can explore by foot, mountain bike or car, and there is a picnic area adjacent to the river below the falls.

Swazi Cultural Village

Located in the Mantenga Nature Reserve, the Swazi Cultural Village offers a firsthand peak into Swazi culture. The makeshift village, comprised of 16 huts, kraals and other structures, represents a traditional Swazi lifestyle from the 1850’s. A local guide explains local customs and history while guiding visitors through the grounds. The tour ends with a 45-minute, high-energy, action-packed dance and music performance by the men and women of the Mantenga Cultural Group.

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary

Swaziland has several wildlife sanctuaries for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts to explore. Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, located in Ezulwini Valley between Mbabane and Manzini, is Swaziland’s pioneer conservation area. Activities include mountain bike riding, horseback riding, game drives, guided bird walks and walking/hiking trails. Animal species in the area include Hippo, Crocodile, Zebra, Blue Wildebeest, Kudu, Nyala, Impala, Warthog, Waterbuck, Reedbuck, Steenbok, Grey Duiker, Klipspringer, Blesbok. and the elusive Leopard.

Execution Rock

Located at the peak of Nyonyane Mountain, inside the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, this historic rock offers amazing views of the Ezulwini Valley. According to ancient legend, it’s aptly named “Execution Rock” because Swazis suspected of witchcraft or criminals were forced to walk off the edge at spear-point, plunging to their death. Hiking remains the most popular way to reach the summit, which can also be reached by mountain bike or horseback.

Adventure Activities

Despite its small size, Swaziland brings the fun for adrenaline junkies. It offers variety of adventure activities from caving in a subterranean cave system to white water rafting on the Usutu River to zip lining in the Malolotja Nature Reserve.

House on Fire/Malandela’s

House on Fire is best known as the venue for Bush Fire, a popular cultural and music festival held each year in May. But even when it’s not hosting great music, the House on Fire is a destination unto itself. Spectacular mountain views serve as a backdrop for the unique artwork and sculptures that adorn the property. The House on Fire shares the grounds with Malandela’s bed and breakfast and restaurant, which has its own beautiful gardens, and Gone Rural, a women’s coop which sells colorful straw baskets and household accessories.

Ngwenya Glass

In operation for more than 20 years, Ngwenya Glass offers visitors the chance to watch local artisans who’ve perfected the art of glass blowing. Visitors can also purchase beautiful blown glass items on site, all made with 100% recycled glass.

Swazi Candles Centre

Since 1982, the Swazi Candles Centre has made decorative paraffin wax and organic soy candles. The colorful, intricately designed candles are created with hard wax and a technique called “millifiore” and are noted for the rich, romantic glow of the exterior shell. The Centre also houses a café and several other craft and souvenir shops.

What’s your favorite thing to do in Swaziland? Please share your comments below.

Share This

Namibia Overland: Swakopmund

April 26, 2016 by thetravelsista 23 Comments

Day 7 – Swakopmund

I ate a hot cooked breakfast, then left around 9:00 am for my quad biking and sand boarding tour. Lucky for me, I was the only one scheduled and it turned into a private tour. I was fitted for a helmet, then my guide and I hit the sand dunes, riding along a set trail so we wouldn’t injure or kill the protected wildlife there. The landscape was magnificent, but I was hopelessly lost as we traveled deeper and deeper into the maze of sand dunes.

More sand dunes

About an hour later, we stopped at one of the larger dunes for my sandboarding adventure. Since it was my first time, I had chosen the “Lie Down” sandboarding style (where you lie on the board and ride the dunes headfirst). My guide waxed the board and rubbed it with sand to prepare it for riding. Then he had me lay down on the board with the front slightly raised and my feet hanging over the back. I was a tad bit nervous and briefly questioned my sanity as I looked down. But I gave the OK and my guide nudged the board sending me off. My adrenaline kicked in as I sailed down the dune at breakneck speed. The ride was exhilarating but over in seconds, and I had to hike back up the dune (which was a chore). I rode down a second time and luckily this time my guide rode me back up on the quad bike.

Waxing the board

Smoothing the board with sand

Ready to go

After two runs, I’d had enough sand boarding and so we took off on the quad bikes to search for desert wildlife. The desert appeared lifeless at first glance, but upon a closer look it was alive with a variety of desert-adapted wildlife. My guide pointed out various hidden animals, including geckos, lizards, beetles, and spiders. The final highlight was seeing where the edge of the desert meets the Atlantic Ocean.

Lizard

Sand gecko

The desert meeting the sea

By the end of the ride, I was dirty, full of sand, and ready for a hot shower. After freshening up, I headed off to explore the town of Swakopmund. Situated on Namibia’s coast, Swakopmund is like a little Deutschland in Africa. The German colonial influence is present in the architecture and general ambience, and many of the retail stores and restaurants are German-owned.

German church

More German architecture

German cafe

I had worked up a serious appetite and stopped for lunch at The Fish Deli, a local seafood restaurant, where I ate fried hake and chips. Later, I walked the sea-front promenade, eating homemade ice cream while viewing the jetty, lighthouse, and exquisite waterfront homes in the area. I would be remiss if I didn’t admit I had mixed emotions about these obvious remnants of colonialism and apartheid.

The Fish Deli

Fried hake fish and chips

Swakopmund waterfront

I spent the last evening talking with one of my tour guides, Alfons, a native Namibian. We talked about past and present Namibian history, his heritage as a member of the Herero tribe, his multilingualism (English, Herero, and Afrikaans, which was required during the apartheid period), and his future plans to return to his village in northern Namibia. I left with a greater understanding of Namibia’s storied past and rich culture, and a strong desire to see more. I look forward to returning.

Have you been to Swakopmund, Namibia’s adventure capital? Did you participate in any adventure activities? Share your comments below.

Share This

Namibia Overland: Namib Desert to Swakopmund

April 20, 2016 by thetravelsista 9 Comments

Day 6 – Tropic of Capricorn – Moon Landscape – Walvis Bay – Swakopmund

After a spectacular Day 5 in the world’s oldest desert, we hit the road early and headed towards our final stop, Swakopmund. En route we made several stops, the first at a farm ranch where we took a guided hike with a local expert. He walked barefoot as he showed us native plants and trees and described how his Bushmen ancestors survived in the harsh desert conditions.

Bushman guide

Desert adapted tree

Desert grass

Desert flower

We were fascinated as he shared a story of how he and two friends hiked through the Namib Desert, all the way to the Atlantic Ocean, carrying little food and water. They used dried reeds and empty ostrich eggs to collect water underneath the earth, then buried the eggs along the trail for their return trek back. Contrary to conventional wisdom, he said they drank limited water because excess consumption would lead to abdominal issues and exhaustion in the hot desert sun. Our excursion ended with a discussion of Namibia’s colonial history and another great lunch prepared by our guides.

Salad fixins and bread

Pasta and spaghetti sauce

Me and my guides, Gift (L) and Alfons (R)

Next, we stopped at the Tropic of Capricorn sign, which bore special significance to me since Capricorn is my zodiac sign. From there, we stopped at the Moon Landscape, so named for its distinctive moon-like topography. Barren and desolate, the Moon Landscape was formed when the Swakop River carved deep canyons into the granite rock. It was a stark reminder of nature’s power and beauty.

Me at the Tropic of Capricorn

Moon Landscape

We continued on to Walvis Bay, where we briefly stopped to walk along the seafront promenade and see the resident flamingos on the lagoon. This also gave us the perfect opportunity to view the extravagant waterfront mansions.

Flamingos in Walvis Bay

Walvis Bay Promenade

Waterfront mansion at Walvis Bay

Waterfront mansion at Walvis Bay

Thirty minutes later we made it to Swakopmund and our first stop was at Desert Explorers, an activity center which offers a variety of adventure activities including skydiving, quad biking, paragliding and sandboarding. I couldn’t leave Namibia’s adventure capital without indulging, so I chose a 3-hour combo quad biking and sandboarding tour for 9:00 a.m. the next morning.

By mid-afternoon, we finally arrived at our B&B, Stay @ Swakop Guesthouse, where I chilled until dinner. Our last group dinner was at Jetty 1905, a fancy restaurant located at the end of a landmark jetty that reaches out some 900 feet into sea. I had wine and grilled sole, served with potatoes and a vegetable medley, all of which was delicious. It was a fun evening with my new friends.

Jetty 1905

Group dinner

Grilled sole

Stayed tuned for Day 7

Have you traveled to Namibia? What was your favorite thing to do? Share your comments below.

Share This

Namibia Overland: Namib-Naukluft Park

April 3, 2016 by thetravelsista 8 Comments

Day 5 – Dune 45 – Deadvlei – Sossuvlei – Sesriem Canyon

After an amazing Day 3 and 4, I was so enthralled with Namibia’s beauty that I didn’t think it could get any better. Little did I know that Day 5 would reveal a landscape so magical that it was like a scene from a movie. We left our lodge around 7:00 am and about an hour later arrived at Sesriem gate, the entrance to the Sossuvlei area of the Namib-Naukluft National Park. We were amazed by the enormous red sand dunes surrounding us at every turn.

Sand dunes at Namib-Naukluft Park

We drove along the paved road for about 30 minutes before finally arriving at Dune 45, one of the most famous dunes, so named because it is located 45 km past the Sesriem gate. Dune 45 is 80 meters (262 feet) high and believed to be composed of 5 million year old sand. We stopped and climbed to the top to enjoy the mind-blowing views. The slippery sand made the hike up quite strenuous and by the time we made it back down, we had worked up a serious appetite. Lucky for us, our guides had prepared breakfast on the truck and it was ready and waiting for us.

Dune 45

Me on top of Dune 45

After breakfast we continued on the paved road to Sossuvlei and Deadvlei, large salt-clay pans which are completely surrounded by some of the largest sand dunes in the world. The largest dune, named Big Daddy, measures 325 meters (1066 feet) high. Since Sossuvlei and Deadvlei are encircled, you must hike the dunes to get there. By then it was late-morning and the desert sun beamed on us like fire. We walked for about a mile to Deadvlei and when we finally arrived the view was surreal.

The trail to Deadvlei

Deadvlei

Deadvlei is marked by blackened dead acacia trees, which stand as a stark contrast to the white salt-clay pan and the red sand dunes. The trees, which are believed to have died 600-700 years ago, were scorched by the intense sun. They don’t decompose because it is so dry. We were living witnesses to the harshness of the environment and after walking back from Deadvlei, we were happy to see living trees with leaves, which we excitedly used for shade from the sun. Luckily, we were able to ride over to Sossuvlei in a covered 4×4 truck.

4×4 park shuttle truck

Sossuvlei

Next we stopped for lunch, then headed to the Sesriem Canyon, a natural canyon of sedimentary rock carved by the Tsauchab River. It measures approximately one kilometer (0.6 miles) long and up to 30 meters (100 feet) deep and is one of the few places in the area that holds water year round. Because it was dry season, we were able to climb down into the canyon to explore and examine the different rock formations.

Sesriem Canyon

Inside Sesriem Canyon

It was late afternoon by the time we left Sesriem Canyon and we were hot, sweaty and tired. We returned to our lodge and once again I was able to sit on my patio and revel in the fascinating views of the Tsaris mountains. I even caught a glimpse of mountain zebras racing through the mountains. Life was good. Next up was Day 6.

The view from my patio

Have you seen the sand dunes in Namibia? Share your comments below.

Share This

Namibia Overland: Fish River Canyon to Tsaris Mountains

March 27, 2016 by thetravelsista 6 Comments

Day 3 – Fish River Canyon – Ai-Ais

After a fabulous Day 1 and 2, I awoke to a magnificent sunrise over the Orange River. Our guides had been up since 6:00 a.m. cooking breakfast, which we ate while discussing the day’s activities. We left around 9:00 a.m. and headed north to the Fish River Canyon, the world’s second largest canyon. Though visually not as majestic or breathtaking as the Grand Canyon (the world’s biggest), Fish River Canyon is still impressive and awe-inspiring in its own right. We enjoyed a scenic walk along the canyon’s edge before heading to the on-site camp area for a group prepared lunch of salad and sandwiches.

Fish River Canyon

Me at Fish River Canyon

Fish River Canyon campsite area with overlook

We left the canyon by mid-afternoon and drove to the Ai-Ais Hot Springs Resort, where we would spend the evening. Ai-Ais (pronounced eye ice) means burning water in the local Nama language and refers to the sulphurous thermal hot springs located at the base of the mountain peaks near the southern end of the Fish River Canyon. The resort filters the hot spring water into a massive indoor jacuzzi with three interconnected pools. I had a nice relaxing soak for about an hour, then returned to my room for a hot shower. I was so relaxed, that I dozed off and missed dinner with the group.

Ai-Ais Resort

Ai-Ais bar and restaurant

Hot springs jacuzzi

Day 4 – Ai-Ais – Tsaris Mountains

I woke up early the next morning, refreshed and ready for another day of adventure in the Namibian desert. I stepped out onto my balcony to take in the fresh air and gaze at the beautiful mountain views surrounding me. A short while later, I made the mistake of leaving the patio door open while I went to the bathroom. The next thing I know, I heard rustling in the room and ran back in time to see a monkey making his escape out the patio door. He had stolen some sugar packets and knocked the sugar bowl on the floor in the process. Needless to say, I was startled and immediately closed the door to avoid a repeat. Later that morning, we had a tasty buffet breakfast then hit the road around 8:30 a.m. This was a full day of driving, as we covered nearly 400 miles from southern to central Namibia. We saw the vast, desolate arid landscape and a variety of wildlife, including giraffes, ostriches, and mountain zebras. Along the way, we stopped for lunch at a roadside campsite. We ate sandwiches and salad, while scoping out local birds, flora and fauna. Our guides were a wealth of knowledge, and Alfons, who is Namibian and from the Herero tribe, was excited to share information about his country and culture.

Gazelle

Giraffe

Ostriches

Yellow bird

Bird nests

By early evening, we arrived at Zebra River Lodge, where we stayed for two evenings. It was a small, secluded property, with individual cottages nestled deep in the Tsaris mountains. The grounds were meticulously landscaped, with breathtaking mountain and desert views. The large veranda was the perfect place to have drinks and watch the sun go down, and we spent the evening doing just that. It was another magical night in Africa and a prelude for what was to come on Day 5.

Zebra River Lodge veranda

My chalet with patio

Pool and mountain views

Have you traveled to Namibia or would you like to? Share your comments below.

Share This

African Overland Adventure: Cape Town to Namibia

March 26, 2016 by thetravelsista 5 Comments

Namibia was my last stop in southern Africa and I decided to go overland rather than fly. Although I’d spent much of my trip solo, planning my own itinerary and often driving myself, for this leg I decided to join a group tour. I elected the 7-day accommodated Desert Explorer tour with Nomad Adventure Tours, which starts in Cape Town, South Africa and ends in Swakopmund, Namibia (they also offer a camping tour which I decided against). I ended up being the only American, black girl, and youngest person in our group of 12 (which included six Germans, four Canadians, one British and me). But we bonded and had a fun time over the course of seven days. It was an amazing experience and the perfect end to my time in southern Africa.

Day 1 – South Africa, Cedarberg Region

As instructed, I arrived at the Nomads Cape Town office at 7:30 a.m. with one soft duffle bag and a backpack (we’d been instructed not to bring roller bags or large pieces of luggage because they could not fit on the truck). After checking in, we boarded the large truck, secured our bags in the on-board lockers, and met our guide, Gift, and driver, Alfons. After a quick de-briefing and group introductions, we left around 8:30 a.m. and headed to Table View, a Cape Town suburb named for its view of Table Mountain from across Table Bay. Unfortunately for us, a thick fog partially obscured the beautiful view and dashed our dreams of capturing the perfect photo. By early afternoon, we arrived in Citrusdal, a small village in the Cedarberg region known for its abundance of citrus orchards and rooibos plants which are endemic to the area. There we stopped at Hebron — a working farm, restaurant, guesthouse and farmstall — for lunch and tastings of locally-produced rooibos tea and wine. We tasted two flavored rooibos teas, vanilla and black currant, and three wines, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Merlot, all of which were tasty. After the tasting we checked into our hotel and relaxed for several hours before heading back to Hebron for a private dinner. The owner, Chef Steve, cooked a succulent meal of steak, mashed potatoes and gravy, and sautéed spinach, which was accompanied by a local Chardonnay we purchased during the earlier tasting. For dessert, he made a flourless cake with raspberry sauce, which was also delicious. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful day and the perfect start to a fantastic week.

Hebron

Citrus trees

Wine tasting room

Rooibos tea and wine tasting at Hebron

Dinner at Hebron

Day 2 – Namibia, Gariep (Orange) River

We woke up early the next morning, and after a tasty buffet breakfast at the hotel, we hit the road headed north towards the Namaqualand region in the Northern Cape of South Africa. About four hours later, we arrived in Springbok, the capital of Namaqualand. Though we wouldn’t see it, Namaqualand is best known for the annual spring phenomenon (July to September) when millions of wild flowers bloom to life transforming the normally dry landscape into an explosion of color. After a quick bit of shopping, sightseeing and lunch, we returned to the road, finally arriving at the South Africa-Namibia border about two hours later. We entered Namibia at the Noordoewer/Vioolsdrif border crossing and proceeded on about 15 minutes later after getting our passports stamped. We were pleasantly surprised when we arrived at our nearby lodging, Felix Unite Camp, located on the banks of the Orange River. Our thatched huts had private patios and stunning mountain and river views. While some of the group went hiking or swimming, I spent the rest of the day sitting on my patio, drinking wine and taking it all in. The setting was just magical.

Riverfront cabana at Felix Unite Camp

My view of the Orange River

Chillin

Stay tuned for Days 3 and 4

**This tour was booked by Detour Africa, which graciously offered a discount for my review. All descriptions and opinions are my own. Detour Africa offers a variety of private and group tours and safaris, catering to any budget, large or small.

Share This

The Top 7 Things to See and Do in Namibia

February 20, 2016 by thetravelsista 11 Comments

Namibia is situated along the southwestern coast of Africa and borders South Africa, Botswana and Angola. The country gained its independence from South Africa in 1990 and has since become a popular tourist destination. Namibia is an adventurer and nature lover’s dream, with activities ranging from bird watching to hiking to extreme sports. Here are my top 7 things to do and see there.

Fish River Canyon

Located in southern Namibia, the Fish River Canyon is Africa’s largest canyon and second in size only to the Grand Canyon in Arizona. Unlike the Grand Canyon which was formed by water erosion, the Fish River Canyon was formed by the collapse of the valley bottom due to movements in the earth’s crust. The canyon offers magnificent views and photo opportunities. For the adventurist traveler, the Fish River Canyon hiking trail offers a challenging hike which covers a distance of 54 miles over 5 days in the base of the canyon. Since there are no facilities, hikers must carry all supplies on their back and find water in semi-permanent pools. Because of its arduous nature, a medical certificate of fitness is required before hikers can commence the hike.

Fish River Canyon

Namib-Naukluft National Park

The Namib-Naukluft National Park encompasses part of the Namib Desert (considered the world’s oldest desert) and the Naukluft mountain range. The most well-known and visited area of the park is Sossuvlei, a salt and clay pan surrounded by massive red sand dunes. Other landmarks in the park include Deadvlei, Hiddenvlei, Sesriem, the petrified dunes, Dune 45, and Big Daddy (the largest sand dune in the area at 1066 feet). The desert scenery is stunning and the area provides the perfect backdrop for amateur and professional photographers alike.

Deadvlei

Swakopmund

Swakopmund is known as Namibia’s adventure capital and for good reason. Popular extreme sport activities include sand boarding, quad-biking, hot air ballooning, dune skiing, skydiving, kite surfing, paragliding, and power kiting, among others. In the city, German buildings adorn the palm-tree lined streets and serve as a stark reminder of the city’s colonial past. The feel is more like a German village rather than an African city. Popular landmarks in the seaside town include the Swakopmund lighthouse and the jetty, which houses two waterfront restaurants.

Walvis Bay

Walvis Bay is Namibia’s main harbor town and is best known for the colony of flamingos that make their home on the city’s lagoon. Other attractions include Bird Island, a man-made structure inhabited by 200,00 birds and used for the production of guano, and Dune 7, the highest sand dune in the area. A unique experience is the 30 mile drive over sand dunes to Sandwich Harbor, a freshwater lagoon is surrounded by dunes. Sandwich Harbor is a sanctuary for large numbers of coastal and fresh water birds. A four-wheel drive vehicle and entry permit is required.

Flamingos in Walvis Bay

Etosha National Park

Located in northwestern Namibia and spanning an area of 8,600 square miles, Etosha National Park is Namibia’s prime wildlife location. Etosha, which means “great white place” in the language of the Ovambo tribe, is dominated by a massive salt pan which covers about 25% of the park. Etosha is home to hundreds of species of mammals, birds and reptiles, including elephants, giraffes, lions, buffalo, leopards, zebras, cheetahs, and the endangered black rhinoceros. The abundant wildlife gives you almost guaranteed game sightings. The park has several lodges and camping facilities, all of which have game-proof fencing. An added plus is that the park is malaria-free.

Bird watching

Kunene region/The Himba Tribe

The Himba are an ancient tribe of semi-nomadic herders who live in the Kunene region, in the barren northwest region of Namibia. Because of the harsh desert climate and their seclusion from outside influences, the Himba have managed to preserve much of their culture and traditional lifestyle. Himba men and woman typically wear only a loin cloth or goat skinned mini-skirt. Himba women are known for their use of otjize, a paste of butter, fat and red ochre which they apply to their hair and skin, and which gives their appearance a distinctive red hue. Due to their secluded location and lifestyle, the Himba are best visited with a local guide who can communicate in their OtjiHimba language.

Himba Woman

Windhoek

Windhoek is the capital and largest city in Namibia. The city is clean and modern, albeit small as far as capital cities go. Due to its close proximity to Hosea Kutako International Airport, most tourists will begin or end their visit in Windhoek. Notable landmarks include Zoo Park, the National Library of Namibia, the Supreme Court of Namibia, the three castles of Windhoek, Tintenpalast (German for Ink Palace and the seat of both chambers of the legislature), and the National Museum of Namibia (which has interesting displays on Namibia’s independence movement and anti-apartheid struggle). Windhoek is also home to Namibia’s brewing industry and several shopping malls.

Have you visited Namibia? What was your favorite thing to see or do? Share your comments below.

Share This

The Nelson Mandela Route

October 31, 2015 by thetravelsista Leave a Comment

I’ve always been fascinated by Nelson Mandela and South Africa’s freedom struggle. So when I learned about the Nelson Mandela Route, which allows visitors to essentially “follow his steps” from the Eastern Cape to Robben Island, I modified my itinerary so I could partake in this drive. The Route starts in King William’s Town, which began as a London-based Missionary Station in 1826 and provides a backdrop to early European influences in a struggle region of British, Boer and Xhosa conflicts. The town’s Amathole Museum has a Xhosa Gallery, Missionary Museum and German Settlers display. Anti-apartheid activist Steve Biko is also buried there. From King William’s Town, the route goes through Bhisho, the home of the provincial government, where it leads to the N2 and on to the Nelson Mandela Museum, which is spread across three locations in Mthatha, Qunu and Mveso. From there the Route goes to several sites in Johannesburg, before ending at Robben Island in Cape Town.

The Nelson Mandela Museum in Qunu

Nelson Mandela Museum

I started my drive on the N2 and headed to Mthatha, the second stop on the Route. I had intended on going to the Bhunga Building, which houses a display reflecting Mandela’s life and times, as well as thousands of gifts and artifacts that he received from presidents, groups and individuals. Unfortunately, that museum was closed for renovations. So instead, I headed straight to Qunu, approximately 20 minutes south. I had pre-arranged a full-day tour and was pleasantly surprised when I arrived at the large, beautiful complex. After passing through security, I met my tour guide, who bore an uncanny resemblance to Mr. Mandela (I later learned he was a relative). We walked the grounds, while he explained the site’s history and showed me the on-site conference facility, restaurant, hotel, souvenir shop, and museum. I wasn’t very impressed with the museum, which basically consisted of wall placards with excerpts from Mandela’s book “Long Walk to Freedom”. (I’ve read the book so I’d seen them all before)

The rock slide

Mandela’s house

But the highlight for me was the actual tour. We drove in my vehicle, starting off in the village of Qunu, where Mandela was raised. We saw the remains of his primary school, the large rock where he used to slide as a kid, the family graveyard where his son, daughter and parents are buried, and his most recent home, which is the largest and most modern one in town. He’s buried on the grounds, which are gated/fenced and closed to the public. We couldn’t get close, but he showed me the general vicinity from afar. Next, we headed to Mveso, where Mandela was born. We saw the site of his childhood home and the land where his family grazed cattle. There’s also a thatched open-air museum with photo exhibits depicting significant moments in Mandela’s life.

The Tree

Mandela and Justice’s rondavel

Inside the rondavel

From there, we headed to the Great Palace at Mqhekezweni, where Mandela went to live at age nine after his father died. “Great” is in the eye of the beholder, because the site itself hardly conforms to the common image of a palace (it’s small, ruggedly inaccessible and difficult to reach by car). But, it was here that Mandela was molded into the man who would become South Africa’s most famous revolutionary and freedom fighter, so in that sense it is a great place. And I was awestruck to be there, as Mandela speaks highly of his formative years there in Long Walk to Freedom. I saw the large tree where Mandela’s father figure, Regent King Jongintaba Dalindyebo , held tribal meetings. It still stands strong and majestic, just as he described. I went inside the rondavel where Mandela lived with his cousin Justice. And I saw the church where Mandela was baptized. I was guided around the palace grounds by Jongintaba’s grandson, who jokingly told me I should move there and find a royal husband. My tour ended there about five hours after it started and I took the long, bumpy road back to the N2 and on to my next stop – Cape Town via the Wild Coast and Garden Route.

My guides

Share This

My Village Experience in Lesotho – Day Two

September 25, 2015 by thetravelsista 2 Comments

On Day 2 , I woke up around 7:00 am, refreshed and ready to start a new day in Lesotho. I made up my bed, then headed outside to the water spigot to wash my face and brush my teeth, and reluctantly use the outhouse (I must admit that was the least favorite part of my visit). I looked out at the river and briefly contemplated going down, but the idea of taking a nude bath out in the open in cold river water just didn’t appeal to me. I snickered at my spoiled American self and decided to wait until I got back to a real shower that evening.

The village chickens

Our hosts had already been up preparing our morning meal and it was ready to go by the time we were done with grooming. We had homemade bread with butter and jam, boiled eggs (freshly laid by the village chickens), and coffee and tea. After breakfast, we sat around relaxing while waiting to go pony trekking. In the absence of working cell phones and computers, we had to talk to each other for entertainment. It reminded me of a time when we weren’t so attached to social media.

Me riding a Basotho pony

Our two guides finally arrived around 10:00 a.m. with six Basotho ponies. Although Basotho ponies are characteristically smaller than horses, I still had some difficulty with mounting (after all, I’m only 5’1″). After several attempts and a bit of assistance, I finally made it up on the saddle. Following a quick briefing on the pony’s disposition and how to maneuver the reigns, we took off headed on a trail up the mountains. I was nervous at first, as this was my first horseback ride, but I quickly relaxed and savored the feeling of complete freedom and exhilaration. It’s true that pony trekking is the best way to see Lesotho.

Beautiful views

The ponies effortlessly climbed up and down the mountains dodging narrow trails, loose rocks, and rugged terrain. As if the views from the ground weren’t beautiful enough, the views from the mountain tops were just breathtaking. We rode for more than 2 hours, visiting several new villages along the way and getting a bird’s eye view of how the Basotho people live. The people were friendly and welcoming despite our unexpected intrusion into their space. The kids were especially excited to see visitors and ran alongside us waving and screaming hi.

Basotho children

Our guide and his helper

We returned to our village around 12:30 p.m. Some younger kids had come by to assist with the ponies. We chatted about the ride and showed them photos on our digital cameras. They were fascinated by the ability to instantly see pictures, and of course, they wanted us to snap their photos too. By then, we had built up an appetite and were glad lunch was ready. Our hosts had prepared fried chicken, rice with red sauce, carrots with onions and peppers, and potatoes, all of which was fresh and delicious.

Lunch

After lunch, we walked to a nearby village to visit a sangoma (medicine healer), who surprisingly was a woman. She greeted us and welcomed us into her hut, after we removed our shoes which we left at the front door. The sangoma spoke limited English so our host, Mankune, translated for us. While Mankune explained the role of sangomas in Basotho culture, the sangoma stepped outside the hut to change into her ancestral garb, which included a cape, a fur hat, a beaded wig, a whistle, shell arm and ankle bracelets, and shell necklaces wrapped around her upper torso. When she returned, she set up a makeshift altar with candles, incense and a bottle of water. While her grandson played the drum, she sang, danced, chanted and said several prayers in an effort to channel the ancestors for our readings. Once she completed her ritual, she had all of us exit the hut and return one at a time for individual readings.

The altar

The sangoma

I went third and entered the hut with 20 rand (approximately $1.75 at that time), which I placed near the “altar”. She blessed the money as an offering to the ancestors, who she said provide her with advice, guidance, and the ability to interpret dreams. She said a prayer for me, then told me I would be healthy and I would be married and have two children in the future. She also said I would meet my husband in the USA, we would start a business together, and then we would move abroad. After my reading was done, I said Kealebua (thank you in Sesotho) and exited the hut. The sangoma’s grandkids were outside waiting and we talked and played until she was done. After she finished her last reading, she let me wear one of her fur hats and we took photos together before saying farewell.

Me and the sangoma

We returned to our village, packed up, and said goodbye to Mankune and her family before heading out in late afternoon. On the way back to the Lesotho border, we stopped for a drink at the Sani Mountain Lodge, the highest pub in Africa at 2874 meters (9429 feet). Unfortunately, a thick cloud cover had descended on the lodge, completely obscuring what I was told are fabulous views from their deck. That same cloud cover made our return ride on the Sani Pass a bit harrowing, as the visibility was near zero for the first 20 minutes. Thankfully, it cleared up once we got to lower elevations and we made it back safely to our hotel in time for dinner (and a hot shower).

Me at the highest pub in Africa

The Pub bar

Cloud cover on the Sani Pass

Have you ever visited Lesotho? If so, what did you think? Please share your comments below.

Share This

My Village Experience in Lesotho – Day One

August 30, 2015 by thetravelsista 2 Comments

My last post ended at the Lesotho border after an adventure on the Sani Pass. Once we crossed into Lesotho, I felt like I had traveled back 100 years in time. It was largely rural, with big open fields and no modern buildings. The mountain terrain was breathtaking and the air was noticeably pure and pollution-free. I sucked in several deep breaths and marveled in it, realizing just how accustomed we’ve become to pollution. We drove past farmers tending to crops and shepherds herding goats and sheep. I was surprised to see Chinese construction trucks and workers installing a massive tar road throughout the country. It was a stark contrast to the rondavels and shepherds dressed in traditional Basotho hats and blankets.

Basotho rondavels

Young Basotho shepherds

Shepherd herding sheep

About 45 minutes later, we drove up to the village and were introduced to our host, MaNkune (pronounced Ma – IN – ku – nee) and her family. We had learned a few words of Sesoto on the ride over, so we greeted them with Dumela, the Sesoto word for Hello. Lucky for us, MaNkune spoke English in addition to her native language so we didn’t have to struggle too much. After exchanging pleasantries, she showed us the hut that would be our home for the next two days. It had been specially built for guests, so it was larger than their normal huts. It was also constructed of mud and concrete, rather than the usual mixture of mud and cow dung, to improve its durability. There was a dormitory-style bedroom with 4 bunk beds, a small living room with sofas and a chair, a dining room with a buffet table, china cabinet, a round table and chairs, and a meal preparation room. Noticeably absent was a bathroom, electricity and running water.

Next, we were shown the outhouse which served as our bathroom. It was constructed of corrugated tin and had a long drop toilet. This was my first experience with an outdoor toilet and I was glad it at least had a seat cover so I wouldn’t fall down the 10 foot hole. Close to the outhouse, was a 5-gallon water bottle with a spigot, which was used for hand washing, teeth brushing, or other personal needs. MaNkune told us that if we wanted to bathe, we could go down to the nearby river. There were other kids and adults already there washing clothes. I guess I’m more of a prude than I thought, because I quickly decided that I probably would not be bathing there.

Our village

The Long Drop toilet

Locals washing clothes in the river

Later, we took a walking tour of nearby highland villages to get a firsthand view of how the Basoto people live. We greeted residents who were out and about, especially the kids who were excited to see us, and were amazed at how they live nestled in the mountains. Next, we were taken to the women’s gathering hut. We met with about 10 ladies who shared their cultural practices and displayed some of their artifacts and crafts. They explained how they meet as a group to do women’s chores, usually related to the preparation of food. They showed us how to grind dry corn kernels by hand with large rocks, all while dancing in their seats and singing traditional songs to kill the monotony. They let us join in, and let me tell you, it definitely required some muscle work.

Highland villages

Young Basotho children

Woman with Basotho hat

Me grinding corn into maize meal

After the cultural presentation, we returned to our hut to relax. MaNkune and other female family members had started prepping for dinner. Since they don’t have electricity or stoves, they cook over an open fire in outdoor kitchen. As they prepared the meal, we were treated to a traditional dance show by some of the village men and women. First, the women performed their traditional dance with skirts made of grass and bottle tops. They sang and shook their hips, making musical sounds with their skirts. I tried it myself and learned it wasn’t as easy as it looked; those skirts are heavy! Next, the men did a gumboot dance with accompanying music played by two young men with a sekhankula, a handmade violin-like instrument. By the time the show ended, it was dark outside and time for dinner.

Female traditional dancers

Me giving the traditional dance a try

Men doing the gumboot dance

We had dinner by candlelight inside our hut. We ate sausage, pap (a corn porridge) topped with a tomato sauce with peppers and onions, potatoes and greens. Everything was fresh, tasty and flavorful. After dinner we drank tea and coffee, and talked about our respective countries and travels, before finally settling in to bed around 9:00 pm. I was afraid I wouldn’t be able to sleep, but to my surprise I slept like a baby through the night. The funny thing is that even without the creature comforts I’m used to, I felt a sense of peace and relaxation there, like all of life’s stressors were gone.

Outdoor kitchen

Dinner

Stay tuned for Day 2

Share This