Africa - The Travel Sista

My Sani Pass Adventure

July 28, 2015 by thetravelsista 20 Comments

After Durban, I hit the road and headed west on my way to the Drakensberg region in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN). After 3 hours I made it to Himeville, where I spent the night before my next-day adventure on the Sani Pass. With a climb of 4,370 vertical feet and a summit altitude of 9400 feet, it’s been said that the Sani Pass is the mother of all South African mountain passes. After experiencing it firsthand, I’d have to agree.

The Sani Pass

Connecting KZN and the landlocked mountain kingdom of Lesotho, the Sani Pass is not for the faint of heart (or those with a tendency for motion sickness). It’s a bumpy, twisting, turning and sometimes scary ride on a narrow dirt gravel road through the steep slopes of the Drakensberg mountain range. With that being said, the views are incredible and worth every minute of the ride.

4×4 Drakensberg Adventures

I took a 2-day trip to Eastern Lesotho with Drakensberg Adventures. Our group of 5 loaded into a 4×4 around 9:30 am and started our trek up the Sani Pass. At first it seemed easy enough, but the gravel road progressively narrowed and grew bumpier, jostling us around and giving us an “African massage” as our tour guide affectionately called it. In about 30 minutes we arrived at the South African border post, where we exited the truck to receive our passport departure stamps. There we learned we had another 2 hours before we arrived at the Lesotho border. This was where the fun began.

Khomazana River Valley

Waterfalls

We drove for about an hour, passing numerous waterfalls and expansive views of the Khomazana river valley. We also learned about the geology of the mountains, the native birds and animals, and the multitude of flora and fauna in the area. I took tons of photos, but as hard as I tried, my camera lens just could not capture the vastness and sheer beauty of the scenery. You really have to see it with your own eyes to appreciate the magnitude. We stopped for lunch around 11:30 am, taking in the views and enjoying the peace and serenity.

Me enjoying the view

Almost at the Sani Top

The last 30 minutes was the scariest part of the drive. We rounded a series of hairpin turns and steep climbs at the edge of the mountain. The gravel road was most narrow here, requiring 100% concentration and skill. At this point, I thanked myself that I’d had the good sense not to attempt this drive on my own. Our driver, who was born and raised in Lesotho, said he’d driven the Sani Pass hundreds of times so it was like second nature to him. He got us up to the final summit with no problem and we finally arrived at the Sani Top nearly 3 hours after we’d started. After a quick stop at the Lesotho border post to have our passports stamped, we were on our way to the Matsoaing village which would be our home for the next two days.

Check out this video by Mountain Passes of South Africa for a firsthand view of the ride.

Car wrecked on the Sani Pass

Have you driven or rode on the Sani Pass? What did you think? Share your comments below.

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African Art at the Phansi Museum

June 6, 2015 by thetravelsista Leave a Comment

I arrived at Durban’s King Shaka airport on a hot and sunny afternoon, fully expecting to check into my hotel and head straight to the beach on the Golden Mile. To my dismay, by the time I settled into my room two hours later, the sky had turned a dark shade of gray, and stayed that way for the next three days. My plans to beach bum and swim in the warm Indian Ocean having been dashed by rainy weather, my next mission was to find an interesting indoor activity. Enter Plan B – the Phansi Museum.

The Phansi Museum opened in 2000, initially located in the basement rooms of Roberts House, a Victorian national monument in Glenwood, Durban. The name ‘Phansi” (which means below in isiZulu and is traditionally known as the realm of the ancestors) was inspired by its location. It has since expanded to three floors and now houses one of the biggest and most spectacular collections of traditional African arts, crafts and artifacts in the world.

Not quite like a traditional museum, all tours are individual and by appointment only. My tour guide, Phumzile Nkosi, escorted me around the museum for an hour and shared information about the history of the various pieces. As a lover of African art, I was completely fascinated and secretly wishing I could have some of the pieces for my personal collection.

The Phansi Museum collection includes Zulu, Xhosa, Shangaan and Ndebele beadwork, telephone-wire baskets, carved wooden meat platters and milk pails, memory cloths, ceramic beer pots, snuff spoons, containers, pipes, walking sticks, and wood carvings, some dating back to the 1800s. The top floor houses the grand finale – 30 life-size marionettes dressed and adorned in full ceremonial attire from various regions and cultures of southern Africa.

If you are in Durban, the Phansi Museum is not to be missed. With an entrance fee of only 40 rand (approximately $3.50 USD at time of writing), it’s one of the best deals in town.

More photos

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Maboneng Street Art in Photos

May 18, 2015 by thetravelsista 3 Comments

My solo tour of southern Africa started in Johannesburg’s Maboneng Precinct, a privately developed urban neighborhood on the east side of Joburg’s CBD. Reminiscent of my hometown Detroit, this inner city community is coming back from years of decay and it’s doing so in a big way.

Maboneng, which means “Place of Light” in the Sesotho language, is home to apartment buildings, offices, a museum, a hotel (12 Decades Hotel), and a hostel (Curiocity Backpackers), as well as a variety of retail shops, restaurants and entertainment venues. With live stand-up comedy shows, art galleries, live theater, and cinema movies, it’s easy to find something to do in the neighborhood. I was especially impressed with Market on Main, a weekly Sunday market featuring music, regional food, local clothing and art designs, and a diverse crowd of South African city dwellers.

But I was most fascinated by the street art that can be found all around Maboneng – on the side of buildings, on freeway overpasses, and on retaining walls. I later learned this awesome art was courtesy of the I ART JOBURG project featuring local and international artists. Created as a means to beautify and uplift the area, the stunning detail and intricacy of the artwork is amazing.

Demeaned as graffiti and often criminally punished as vandalism in the United States, it was refreshing to see this art form embraced as the artistic expression of the community residents. In my opinion, it’s symbolic of the grit and vibrancy of the community. Long live #Maboneng.

Have you visited Maboneng? What did you think about the street art? Does it add to or detract from the community? Share your comments below.

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Six Things I Learned Driving Across South Africa

March 19, 2015 by thetravelsista Leave a Comment

On Christmas day last year, I scored an amazing glitch fare of $278 to Johannesburg, South Africa. Soon after, I started making plans for an extended trip back to the Motherland. I decided to visit South Africa, Lesotho, Namibia and Swaziland. Once I mapped out the places I wanted to go in South Africa and looked at airline schedules for inter-country flights, it quickly became clear that logistical challenges would make the trek easier by car. Now I’m admittedly not a fan of long road trips. Years of airline travel has made me spoiled (why drive 15 hours when I can get there in 2 on a plane) and anything more than 4 hours is sure to bring a frown to my face. So while the initial thought of driving across South Africa was not especially pleasant, after a bit of contemplation I sucked it up and decided to take the plunge.

Last week I took an epic solo road trip across South Africa, driving more than 1,000 miles from Durban to Cape Town. Along the way, I visited the Drakensberg/Sani Pass, Lesotho, Qunu (where Nelson Mandela was raised), Chintsa (on the Wild Coast), and Port Elizabeth (on the Sunshine Coast), before driving the coastal Garden Route down to Cape Town. The trip allowed me to see South Africa in all of its glorious splendor and to see the daily lives of South Africans. I also learned six important truths about the country.

1. South Africa is a vast, diverse country

South Africa is the 9^th largest country in Africa, with a land mass of 471,000 miles. It has vibrant, modern cities with trendy restaurants, casinos, and entertainment. It abounds with beaches, winelands, and wild animals (Can you say the Big 5). It also is largely rural with tons of green rolling hills and majestic mountains sure to captivate any nature lover. In short, there is something to suit everybody. And speaking of diversity, they don’t call South Africa the Rainbow Nation for nothing. The people are just as diverse as the landscape, with 11 official languages and a variety of cultures. You’ll find blacks, whites, coloureds (mixed race in South African parlance), and Indians here, with more concentrations in certain areas (like Indians in Durban, whites in Cape Town, and blacks in Soweto).

2. South Africans drive on the “wrong” side of the road

OK, that’s a joke. Seriously though, while Americans drive left steering wheel vehicles on the right side of the road, South Africans drive right steering wheel vehicles on the left side of the road. Driving was tricky because I had to constantly remember to stay left and think about where to turn, tasks that come instinctively when I’m driving at home. And more than once I walked to the left front side of car forgetting that the driver’s side was on the right.

3. South Africans have a need for speed

I thought Americans were bad when it comes to speeding and risky driving, but I think South Africans win the prize. Speed limits seemed to be optional despite traffic camera signs everywhere and signs warning of high accident zones. Drivers thought nothing of overtaking/passing other cars with limited sight ahead. Even steep mountain curves were no obstacle for these speed demons. I saw several near head-on collisions and even a near vehicle/cow collision (See #4).

4. South African roads and highways are to be shared by cars, people and animals

The highways are not restricted to vehicles, so you may encounter people walking along the narrow shoulder or even cows, goats or sheep crossing the roadway. I quickly learned you must always pay attention to the road because you never know who or what you may encounter. Take your eyes off the road for a second and you could have a major catastrophe on your hands.

5. Hitchhiking is commonplace in South Africa

Many South Africans in villages and rural areas do not have vehicles, so they either catch mini-taxis or thumb a ride with a stranger. While I’d never pick up a hitchhiker at home, I picked up an elderly Xhosa lady in Qunu and gave her a ride from her village to the main road. She offered me R50 (approximately $4.50 USD at time of writing), which I politely declined. Her smile and obvious excitement at scoring a free ride was enough to make my day. Besides, I also believe in karma. I hope someone returns the favor one day if I’m a senior in need of help.

6. Post-apartheid, South Africa still has prevalent poverty and inequality

South Africa has a burgeoning black middle class, but 21 years later the harsh aftermath of apartheid can still be seen in the daily lives of the majority. As I traversed the country, it was hard not to notice the extreme inequality between black and white South Africans. I saw a lot of luxury vehicles (BMW, Mercedes Benz, Range Rover) mostly driven by whites, while most blacks walked to and from work or other activities of daily living. Similarly, I saw beautiful waterfront homes (in mostly white areas), while many blacks lived in townships or rural villages with no indoor plumbing or electricity. The juxtaposition was striking and it was the one down point of my adventure. While I (and many others) had hoped South Africa’s new democracy would usher in a new era of social and economic freedom, in fact, some studies suggest that South Africa is more unequal since the fall of apartheid. I don’t know the answers, but it’s an issue that sorely needs to be addressed. Hopefully with continued progress, South Africa will achieve the true freedom and equality that Nelson Mandela and other freedom fighters fought for.

Have you ever taken a road trip in a foreign country? What did you see and learn? Share your comments below.

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Exploring Ghana

June 14, 2014 by thetravelsista Leave a Comment

My last stop on the African continent was West Africa, namely Ghana. Since this was my first time there and I only had a week, I decided to use a tour operator rather than navigate the country on my own. I decided on Jolinaiko Eco Tours, a Ghana-based company that provides custom tours and also partners with several villages for eco-tourism projects. The price was right and it met my desire that locals benefit from my tourist dollars.

Customs line at Kotoka Int’l Airport (Accra)

I arrived in Accra around 7:30 pm on a Friday night. Two other flights had just arrived before mine, so the line for customs (non-Ghanaians) was extremely long. After about an hour and a half, I finally made it through customs, grabbed my luggage and met my driver Wisdom outside. We packed up and headed to the Sunbird Lodge, Jolinaiko’s bed and breakfast located about 20 minutes away in the suburb of Amrahia; I stayed there overnight before starting my tour. Wisdom was my personal tour guide for the week and I highly recommend him.

Wisdom and I

I woke up early the next morning to a bright, sunny day. After a homemade breakfast of scrambled eggs, toast and fresh fruit, Wisdom and I headed out for the two-hour drive to the Volta region in eastern Ghana. Along the way, we passed through several small towns where I got a glimpse into daily Ghanaian life. Locals sold clothing, food and other items from roadside stands. Others stood in the road selling a variety of fresh fruit, fried plantain chips (which were delish) and tea bread. I was astonished by the plethora of churches and church-related billboards; clearly, Western Christianity has taken a stronghold in Ghana. I was even more floored by the numerous cell phone ads and stores; it was an odd sight considering the obvious poverty. Wisdom and I had some interesting talks about Ghanaian history, life and culture and his Ewe heritage. Wisdom was very knowledgeable and personable.

River ferry canoe to Atsiekpoe Village africa 2013 471 africa 2013 445

Our first stop was the village of Atsiekpoe (aka Cashew Village). It lies on the Volta river bank and can only be reached by crossing the river on a ferry canoe. After a quick five minute ride, I arrived at the village where several women were washing clothes in the river. I was soon met by my two young tour guides who walked me around the village. They showed me various buildings, houses, and schools, most of which were made of termite clay and covered by grass thatch roofs. I also saw their small herd of goats, the gardens where they grow fruits and vegetables, and how they make handmade tools and charcoal. There was limited electricity and no running water. About halfway through the tour, we stopped at the home of Adawu, the village elder and historian. He welcomed me and invited me into the small hut, where he shared a thorough history of the village. We also talked about his life and work history, as well as mine in the USA. I was amazed by his memory and cognitive abilities, especially after I learned he was 95 years old. We talked for nearly 30 minutes and I felt honored for the experience. Before I left, I asked to take his photo, which he obliged only after putting on his sunglasses (I learned he was blind during our talk, but it wasn’t otherwise obvious). The tour ended at the community museum/tourist center, which had historical information and handmade art, tools, and a 100 year old chief’s stool. I made a donation to the community and said thanks to my tour guides who walked me back to the river. We bid farewell and I took the ferry canoe back across.

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Adawu

In late afternoon, Wisdom and I stopped for lunch at a rest stop where I had the best grilled tilapia I’ve ever had in my life. It was accompanied by Jollof rice, a spicy tomato-based West African rice dish, which was equally delicious. After lunch, we headed to Biakpa, in the eastern highlands of the Volta region. The area is mountainous and our drive included some long narrow, winding roads. But the sun was going down as we arrived and I was treated to beautiful panoramic views of the hills and lush vegetation. The next morning, we went to the village of Amedzofe, which is Ghana’s highest settlement at 2500 feet. I took a brief walking tour with Godwin, the resident Rastafarian and budding author. Over the next few days, I visited several more villages, including Tafi Atome (where I visited their monkey sanctuary and fed bananas to the Mona monkeys), Tafi Abuipe (a kente weaving village), and Kpando (a women’s pottery village). Most of the villages had small homes made of termite clay, and lacked electricity or indoor plumbing. There was a big sense of community, however, as most residents seemed to be related or know each other.

Feeding the monkeys at Tafi Atome village Kente weaver at Tafi Abuipe village

Kpando Women’s Pottery village

On the day before I left, I went to the Cape Coast to see the infamous slave castles. I took a tour of the Elmina Castle in Elmina; it was an emotionally overwhelming experience and I was glad to get to my hotel, Biriwa Beach, for some rest. For lunch, I had another Ghanaian dish, groundnut soup with chicken and rice balls. It was delicious and filling. I spent the remainder of the day relaxing and meditating with beautiful ocean views and lush greenery in the background. The next morning, we headed back to Accra. On the way we stopped to visit custom coffin makers and a glass bead factory, where they made beautiful hand-made jewelry. I purchased several pieces for myself and as souvenirs. In Accra, I visited tourist highlights in the city, including the National Museum, the Kwame Nkrumah museum and mausoleum, Ghana Judicial Service and government complex, and the W.E.B. DuBois museum. We also stopped at a sales complex, where I purchased a large mud cloth which decoratively hangs on my hallway wall. It’s a beautiful reminder of my time in Ghana.

Views of the Atlantic coast outside my room

Making glass beads

Glass bead jewelryMaking custom coffins

Car coffin

Sewing machine coffin

I left Ghana glad that I had visited and hopeful that it would one day see the economic success it deserves. There are so many talented, hardworking people that would thrive with just a fraction of the opportunity we have in the USA. Hopefully, more economic development will come in my lifetime.

More Ghana photos

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How to Safari in Africa on a Budget

May 15, 2014 by thetravelsista 1 Comment

Like most people, I’d always heard that African safaris were super expensive. I went on my first African safari in October 2013, and while it was one of the best experiences of my life, it was pricey. I stayed at Kirkman’s Kamp, a private lodge situated in the Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve, adjacent to Kruger National Park in South Africa; it included all food, drinks and safari drives and was a total splurge. But several days before, I rented a car and explored the greater Kruger Park area. Doing so, I learned about a variety of South African safari options I didn’t know about before.

Many people self drive and stay at public rest camps inside the park, both to save money and to have a different experience. The rooms aren’t fancy, but frankly you won’t spend a lot time there anyway — the real action is in the bush. The bigger camps have restaurants and supermarkets, so you can eat on-site or bring food along with you on your drives. I recommend using a 2 x 4 or 4 x 4 vehicle, because the higher profile will allow for better wildlife sightings. Some of the camps even offer early morning and night drives conducted by Kruger Park staff in open trucks. It is quite easy to schedule yourself, but it may require more planning since rooms book up well in advance. Visit the SANParks website for information on amenities and facilities at each camp. Another option is to stay in lodging near the park and drive in each day, though that may be more time-consuming. There are several guest houses, hotels and B&Bs in the nearby vicinity. Visit sa-venues.com for more information and pricing.

If you prefer not to self drive, guided day safari drives or budget lodges are other affordable options (the word “budget” is relative, because most are still quite nice). Companies like Nhongo Safaris and Wild Wings Safaris offer guided, open-truck day drives and safari/accommodation packages. Although both offer camp lodging, Wild Wings Safaris also offers several budget lodges with rates as low as $200 USD per person, per night, including safari drives, food, and non-alcoholic drinks; rates may be even lower during low season. Their website is an excellent source of information for researching affordable game lodges and safari options (though you should compare prices with the direct lodge or camp website before booking).

For the more adventurous types, walking safaris or a meal in the bush might be a fun option. Companies like Wild Frontier Adventures offer morning bush walks and night drives with three-course braais (BBQs) in the bush. While the thought of walking through the bush or eating dinner at night surrounded by wild animals may seem scary at first, it really is a magical, once in a lifetime experience you shouldn’t miss. (If it’s any consolation, your expert guide will be trained to deal with wild animal encounters and will also carry a rifle for the rare emergency situation). I look forward to going back on safari now that I know the ropes. With current exchange rates at 1 U.S. Dollar to 10 South African Rand, there’s no better time to go.

Do you have any tips for finding affordable African safaris? Please share below.

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Ghana’s Elmina Castle

April 6, 2014 by thetravelsista 2 Comments

Elmina Castle was built as a trading post by the Portuguese in 1482. Its lower chambers were originally used to store gold and other commodities before shipment to Europe. Centuries later, it became a hub for the trans-Atlantic slave trade and those same chambers were used to store a more valuable commodity – African slaves. As a black American and descendent of African slaves, I’ve always been curious about my roots and how my ancestors got to America. And so, I decided to end my first trip to the African continent with a tour of the slave castles along Ghana’s former Gold Coast.

View from the Atlantic coastline

As we drove up the Atlantic coast, the large, imposing white castle came into view. The sight of it brought on a feeling of unease. When we finally arrived, I walked around and stood outside for a minute to take it all in. As I was in my moment, several locals walked up to me trying to sell various goods. By the third one, I was quite annoyed and yelled “NO, leave me alone.” I’m not normally that rude, but I was upset by the disturbance of my moment of reflection. It seemed to do the trick and I went back to my moment. Finally, I took a deep breath and walked across the drawbridge to enter the castle. Once inside, I was told there was an entrance fee of $10 USD for foreign adult visitors. I didn’t like it, but I sucked it up and paid the fee. When I learned there was an additional fee of $10 USD to take inside pictures or videos, I declined.

Drawbridge

My visit began at the small museum which detailed the history of the castle and the various colonial powers who controlled it for nearly 500 years. Surprisingly, there wasn’t much information about the capture and sale of African slaves by African traders. Likewise, there was little information about the trans-Atlantic voyage, the people of the African diaspora, and the aftermath of the trans-Atlantic slave trade. These stories are so inextricably connected that it was unfortunate the full narrative was not told.

Next, I went on a guided tour conducted by a local Elmina resident. The tour guide was knowledgeable enough, and as we walked through the fortress he described the inhumane conditions the slaves endured before they made the voyage to the Americas. We started at the women’s dungeon, which at full capacity held up to 400 women for as long as four months while they waited for a ship to arrive. They were fed once a day and sometimes not at all. They were not allowed to bathe and were forced to live in their own urine, blood, and excrement (a faint smell still remains present). Death and disease were common. As I stood inside the room with no windows and minimal ventilation, I visualized all of those women in that hot, cramped, smelly space with barely enough room to sit, let alone lie down. I tried to imagine what they felt and what they were thinking. My emotions finally overtook me and the tears began to fall.

Shackles and branding iron

Just outside the women’s dungeon was a courtyard with a staircase leading to an overhead balcony; this was part of the governor’s chambers. The tour guide explained that the women were paraded out of the dungeon while he looked over the balcony and chose one as his concubine. The chosen woman was cleaned up and fed, then led up the staircase to the governor’s chambers for him to have his way with her. The women were regularly raped by the governor, soldiers and other officials. Those who became pregnant were “lucky”; they were freed and housed in town, and their mixed children were educated. Those who resisted were severely punished; they were chained to a heavy ball in the courtyard and forced to stand all day in the sun with no food or water.

From there we went to the men’s dungeons, which held up to 600 men and were similarly dark, damp and disgusting. The men’s dungeons were closest to the infamous “Door of No Return”, where the slaves were taken to waiting ships. The entrance to that tunnel was so short we had to duck to avoid hitting our heads. I surmised the size was purposeful because this was where the slaves took their last steps on African soil, and where they were most likely to resist. Several visitors had left flower memorials there in their honor.

Next, we went to the upper levels, which contained the kitchen, soldier’s housing, suites for visiting officials, and the governor’s wing. In stark contrast to the dungeons below, the governor’s quarters were spacious and airy with beautiful ocean views. Surprisingly, there was also a church directly above the room of no return. The irony wasn’t lost that these captors worshiped above the space where they held other humans in captivity and broke so many of God’s commandments.

The tour ended at the “condemned cell”, which had a skull and cross bones above the door. This was where male slaves who rebelled or resisted were imprisoned in a windowless, ventless chamber and left to die with no food, water or air. You can still see scratch marks on the wall, signs of their desperate struggle to survive. Outside the cell was a plaque which read: “In Everlasting Memory of the anguish of our ancestors. May those who died rest in peace. May those who return find their roots. May humanity never again perpetrate such injustice against humanity. We, the living, vow to uphold this.” I can only hope that this history never repeats itself.

Partial front view

My visit to Elmina Castle was an incredibly emotional event (which I relived as I wrote this post). I had learned about the horrors of the trans-Atlantic voyage and slavery in America, but never realized how horrendous the experience was before the slaves left the African shore. Reflecting back, it was humbling to realize that I’m descended from some amazingly strong people, and if they could survive through that horrific experience, I can make it through any of my comparatively small troubles. Moreover, it was liberating to be able to go back there to pay homage to the ancestors and show that their captors did not win. It was a life changing experience I’ll never forget.

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Kirkman’s Kamp: My First Safari

March 27, 2014 by thetravelsista Leave a Comment

I ended my trip to South Africa with a safari at Kirkman’s Kamp, an And Beyond property in the private Sabi Sand Game Reserve. We drove there from Nelspruit (about 2 hours away) and arrived around 2:00 p.m. We were welcomed with fresh lemonade and introduced to the staff, including our ranger Brett, who later met with us alone to learn our wishes for safari. This being our first safari, of course we wanted to see the Big 5, especially the big cats. We were not disappointed. We headed out around 4:30 p.m., in an open top Land Rover, for our first evening drive; we saw elephants, a pair of lions mating, and a female leopard with her cub. It only got better from there.

We were up at 5:00 a.m. the next morning (and the three mornings after) for our first of two daily drives. Our tracker Colin (who we nicknamed Eagle Eye) made sure we saw the Big 5 and more. Little did I know that in addition to the wild animals, I’d see African oral traditions and tribal customs at work. Colin saw and heard animals so far away in the bush it was incredible. He could look at footprints in the dirt and tell what type of animal made them, whether they were fresh or old, and what direction they were headed in, thus leading us to a sighting. On several occasions, he went off into a bush alone to look for animals. I was more scared about it than he. Colin was as fascinating to watch as the animals. Even though he has no formal education, he was like a walking encyclopedia – he knows every bird, animal, plant and tree in the bush. This knowledge was passed down thru generations from hunting with his father and grandfather, all members of the Shangaan tribe. Colin’s talent was unbelievable.

Over the course of four days, I saw lions, elephants, rhinos, buffalos, hyena, zebras, giraffes, a variety of rare birds, and many other animals. I even saw dung beetles (which I had never before heard of). We went off-roading on several occasions to get a birds’ eye view of a leopard in the tree with his kill and a pride of lions who had taken down a giraffe. We were literally 10 to 15 feet away. I saw hyenas scavenging on the remains of a fallen rhino, while vultures patiently waited nearby for their turn. And I saw two giraffes fighting each other with vicious torso and head butts (so much for giraffes being peaceful and easygoing animals). It was fascinating to be so close to the animals and observe them in their natural habitat.

But even besides the animal sightings, Kirkman’s Kamp was an all-around great experience. The grounds were beautiful and the communal areas were cozy and comfortable. The family-like atmosphere and camaraderie between guests and staff was awesome. In the evenings, we met up for cocktails and to take score of who had seen the most animals. These discussions were spirited and lively. The food was plentiful and every meal was delicious; there was a variety of wild game, African dishes, and Western food, so there was something for everyone. And to top it all off, we even had our own personal butler, Friday, to cater to us. His big smile and jokes were a welcome bonus each day. The rate included laundry service, which I used on my last day; everything was washed and ironed to a tee (better than I do at home, LOL). The massages and other spa services were extra, but reasonably priced and also excellent. It was nice to be treated like a queen, if only for four days. Kirkman’s Kamp will be a hard act to follow.

I came to the Sabi Sand excited, but a little scared about what I would encounter in the wild. It turned out to be my favorite part of the trip. I never could have imagined I would feel so at peace and comfortable in the bush surrounded by wild animals. I can’t wait to go back!

Click here for more safari photos

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My Day in Soweto

March 12, 2014 by thetravelsista Leave a Comment

I arrived on Johannesburg (Joburg) on a Friday night and early the next morning, took a tour of Soweto (an acronym for South West Townships) with Imbizo Tours. The owner Mandy, a longtime Soweto resident and the first black female tour operator in South Africa, served as our guide for the day. She picked up my sister and I from our hotel, then 3 more people, before heading to Soweto. I was curious, so I asked many questions about South African history and politics. We had a great discussion during the drive. We learned that rather than being one township, Soweto is actually a group of townships south of Joburg. It is massive, predominately black (approx. 98%) and home to more than 1 million people.

When we entered Soweto, it was a lot different than I expected. I thought the entire area would be poor, but in fact there’s a mix of middle-class enclaves, government housing, and informal settlements. We first drove thru an area called California, which Mandy told us was home to professionals such as doctors, lawyers and entertainers. The houses were fancy and large with well-manicured lawns and foliage; the neighborhood mirrored an American suburb. Interestingly, the houses lacked the barbed wire and electrified fences I’d seen at homes and apartment buildings in Joburg.

A short distance away was a markedly different neighborhood. It had much smaller houses and government housing which resembled American tenements. Lawns were basically non-existent and garbage was strewn about on the street. Women retrieved water from an outdoor water pump and washed clothes outside in large buckets. So close, but yet it was like a different world.

We continued on through the huge area which extended further than the eye could see. We drove around several other nicer areas – Beverly Hills and Orlando – and passed by the University of Johannesburg – Soweto Campus, Chris Hani Baragwanath Hospital, and Orlando Towers. Next, we stopped at a local market near the Soweto Hotel (the only full-service hotel in Soweto, we were told). It was bustling with people buying and selling fruits, vegetables, art, jewelry, and other souvenirs. As she does with all of her guests, Mandy asked us to buy food as gifts for residents of Kliptown, which she described as the poorest area in Soweto. We bought several big bags of potatoes, cabbage, carrots and oranges; between the five of us, it only cost us about $5 USD each.

Little could have prepared us for what we would see at Kliptown. It was a shantytown in every sense of the word — all shacks, mostly made of corrugated tin, with no indoor plumbing or electricity. At the entrance of the community stood 3 portable toilets, which we learned serviced 13 families each. There was also a huge pile of garbage, which was the community dumping area. The sanitation department only picks up the human waste and garbage two times per week, so needless to say there was a noticeable odor.

Ntoli, a young female resident, took us on a tour of the community and her shack. As we turned to the left to head towards her shack, we saw an open trench with water running through. Ntoli told us this was the community water source, which led to the water pump they use to get water to drink, bathe and do laundry. It would be an understatement to say the water appeared unclean. We walked through a narrow passageway and arrived at Ntoli’s shack which she shares with 8 other relatives. The shack was approximately 18′ x 18′, with one partitioned-off bedroom, a kitchen and a dining area. It was unfathomable to me that 9 people could live there. I presume that’s why everyone was outside passing the time. The unemployment rate there is about 70%, so I guess that’s another reason.

Before we left, we passed out oranges to the kids and gave food to the mothers. We then bid them thanks and farewell, amazed at their happy dispositions and resilience in the worst of circumstances. Kliptown was a sad and glaring reminder of the legacy of apartheid in South Africa.

After Kliptown, we stopped for lunch at the Sakhumzi restaurant on Vilakazi Street (where Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu once resided). The street was lively, full of people and music. We ate from the buffet, which featured a variety of African foods, drank a beer, and had more good conversation. Then we went to the nearby Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum, which is located close to the spot where the 13 year old was shot and killed by South African police during the Soweto uprising. The memorial, which was unveiled by Nelson Mandela, honors Pieterson and other student protestors who were killed or injured in the fight against apartheid; it is a fitting tribute to these young heroes. Our tour ended there and we headed back to Joburg. As I reflected on the day, I was so glad I had visited Soweto. There is an amazing history and energy there that you just won’t find in the city.

Click here for more photos of Johannesburg

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Robben Island

March 3, 2014 by thetravelsista Leave a Comment

Nelson Mandela is one of my personal heroes. So needless to say, my trip to Cape Town had to include a visit to Robben Island, where he was imprisoned for nearly 20 years for fighting against apartheid. Little did I know just how significant and special my visit would be; I went about one month before his death in December 2013.

After a 30-minute ferry ride, we arrived on the island and were escorted to waiting buses for a narrated tour. The bus drove us around the large island, while our tour guide pointed out buildings and historical facts of significance. We saw the living quarters of professor Robert Sobukwe, an anti-apartheid activist who was kept in solitary confinement for almost 7 years, in an area separate from other political prisoners.

We exited the bus to visit Section D, the maximum security prison where Mandela and other political prisoners were jailed; we even saw Mandela’s actual cell. This part of the tour was conducted by Kolekile Mahlahla, a former political prisoner who shared harsh details about their daily life, and how even in prison race dictated their diets, activities, clothing, and sleeping arrangements. Whites, Coloureds, and Indians were given more food than Blacks. They were also allowed to wear long pants and shoes, unlike Blacks who could only wear shorts and no shoes. Whites slept on mattresses, while Blacks had burlap sacks.

Mahlahla also shared stories about his interactions with Mandela and other older prisoners. He described how Mandela both earned the respect of some guards and acted as a leader to younger prisoners, promoting education and peaceful strategy over armed strife. This part of the tour was the most fascinating for me, because we were able to ask questions and get a true sense of being there during the apartheid era. Towards the end of the tour, we visited the limestone quarry where political prisoners were forced to work hard labor for 12+ hours per day. We learned the quarry became known as the “University” and was the site of secret classes and debates among the political prisoners. We also saw a rock pile left there by Mandela and other prisoners during a 1995 reunion, as a remembrance of their time on the island and a symbol of their solidarity. We ended the tour the same way we started –with a half hour ferry ride across the Atlantic Ocean, back to the city. The ride gave you a true sense of the isolation and human wasteland that place was intended to be. But far from that, Robben Island is a testimony to the resilience of the human spirit and the triumph of good over evil.

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