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Why You Need to Visit Santiago de Cuba

July 26, 2017 by thetravelsista 13 Comments

Havana may be Cuba’s capital and largest city, but Santiago de Cuba is its cultural capital.

Nestled on the far southeastern side of the island, near the infamous Guantanamo Bay, Santiago de Cuba (Santiago) is the second largest city in Cuba, infused with Afro-Caribbean cultural and rebel influences.

It was in Santiago, where on July 26, 1953, Fidel Castro and others launched their Revolutionary movement with a failed armed attack on the Moncada Barracks. It was also in Santiago, where on January 1, 1959, Fidel Castro proclaimed the victory of the Cuban Revolution from a balcony on Santiago’s city hall. But Santiago’s revolutionary spirit was born long before Fidel ever touched foot there.

Santiago is home to Cuba’s largest Afro-Cuban population, most of whom are descended from slaves brought to Cuba from Africa and Haiti in the 1700s and 1800s to work its sugar plantations. Those slaves turned to music, dance and spirituality to survive the brutal conditions and that creolized legacy remains alive today.

In what can only be described as a secret act of rebellion, African slaves disguised their religion under acceptable Catholic symbols after their traditional religions were banned. Catholic saints came to represent Yoruban orishas (divine beings), each with distinct attributes and its own color. Today, a large number of Santiagueros practice Afro-Cuban religions, most notably Santería. You’ll often see them wearing red, white, or yellow beads, with each color representing a different saint.

Santiago is the birthplace of son, the traditional music and dance from which salsa dancing is derived, and guaguancó, a sub-genre of Cuban rumba, combining percussion, voices, and dance. The music permeates every pore of Santiago and you couldn’t escape it if you tried. From the local coffee shops and bars, to the legendary Casa de la Trova, Casa de la Musica, Casa de las Tradiciones, Casa del Caribe, and Patio de los dos abuelos, the intoxicating beats of Afro-Cuban music will draw you in and leave you wanting more.

From Havana, Santiago is a 1.5 hour flight or a long 16 hour bus ride, but it’s worth every minute. If you haven’t yet been, I encourage you to go and experience the exciting fusion of rum, music and revolution. To help you plan, here’s a list of my favorite things to do there:

1. Museo del Carnaval

If you want to learn the history of Santiago’s biggest party, held each year in late July, the Carnival Museum is the place to go. You’ll find floats, effigies, costumes, musical instruments, and more from past Carnivals. If you’re lucky, you can also catch a live folklorico dance performance on the patio. They’re typically held in the afternoon around 4:00 pm, but the schedule is irregular.

2. Julio de 26 Museum

The July 26 Museum commemorates that day in 1953, when more than 100 revolutionaries led by Fidel Castro stormed dictator Fulgencio Batista’s troops at Moncada Barracks, then Cuba’s second-most important military garrison. The barracks have since been converted into a school called Ciudad Escolar 26 de Julio, and the museum is located near gate 3, where the main attack took place. There are replica bullet holes at the entrance to serve as a poignant reminder of that day. The museum contains interesting historical relics, including a scale model of the barracks, diagrams and models of the attack’s planning and aftermath, and photographs of the 61 fallen men.

3. El Monumento Al Cimarrón

Built on a hill in the nearby town of El Cobre, the Monument to Runaway Slaves is a towering bronze and iron sculpture that honors one of Cuba’s earliest slave revolts that took place on July 24, 1731. The sculpture stands on a nganga (which means a metal pot in the “Regla de Palo Monte” Afro-Cuban religion), in which religious believers and practitioners place their offerings. El Cobre is located 14 miles outside of Santiago.

4. The Basílica Santuario Nacional de Nuestra Señora de La Caridad Del Cobre

Also located in El Cobre, this shrine celebrates Cuba’s virgin saint Our Lady of Charity, a black Madonna that so closely resembles the African orisha Ochún that many Cubans believe them to be one and the same.

5. Castillo de San Pedro de la Roca del Morro

Known locally as “El Morro”, this UNESCO World Heritage site was built in 1638 as a military fortress to defend foreign attacks, and later served as a prison. Today, it is a museum and popular tourist attraction. This well-preserved fort has several levels of terraces overlooking Santiago Bay and offers amazing panoramic views of Santiago’s coastline. Every day at sunset there is a cañonazo ceremony (firing of the cannons). El Morro is located about six miles southwest of the city center.

El Morro Fort, Santiago

6. House of Popular Religions

This cultural museum allows visitors to explore and learn about Cuba’s various Afro-Cuban religions, including Santería which is the most widely practiced. The museum houses a variety of religious icons, with displays symbolizing the syncretism of Catholic religious symbols with African orishas — images of Jesus Christ can be seen juxtaposed with ceremonial machetes and stuffed reptiles used in Santería ceremonies.

7. Casa del Caribe

This is the place to be on Sunday evenings from 5:00 to 9:00 pm for the weekly rumba. It’s a high energy, action packed music and dance performance celebrating the deities of Afro-Cuban religion. This cultural institution has dance lessons and events most days of the week. They also organize the Festival del Caribe and the Fiesta del Fuego every July.

8. Parque Céspedes

This square is the social hub of Santiago, where locals come to see and be seen — and to enjoy the open wifi signal. You can expect to see anything here, from live music and dance performances, to vendors selling roasted peanuts, to people walking, talking, flirting, and laughing. The square is surrounded by several colonial era buildings, including the Ayuntamiento or Town Hall, the former San Carlos Club, the Casa Granda Hotel, and the beautiful Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (which holds the record for being the most reconstructed and remodeled building in the city).

9. Parque Alameda / Malecón

This park is the center of the Malecón (boardwalk) and features a playground, gym, palm trees and public wi-fi. It’s a great place to relax and people watch or take a stroll along the seafront. There’s even a restaurant that looks over the bay.

10. Padre Pico Steps

These steps are the gateway to the Tivolí neighborhood, Santiago’s picturesque old French quarter, and one of its main attractions. The 52 steps are more than 100 years old and often the site of rousing dominoes games.

11. Plaza de Revolución

This square is anchored by an impressive statue of Afro-Cuban hero and native son, Antonio Maceo. Maceo sits atop his horse and is surrounded by 23 raised machetes. There is also a small museum which contains information on his life. Directly across the street is a large billboard of Fidel Castro with the city’s motto: “rebelde ayer, hospitalaria hoy, heroica siempre” (rebellious yesterday, hospitable today, heroic always).

Statute of Afro-Cuban hero Antonio Maceo

12. Enjoy Santiago’s People and Nightlife

Santiagueros are very welcoming and friendly, and they will be the highlight of your visit to Santiago. Go to the local coffee shops, parks and bars where they hang out. Play dominoes. Take salsa and rumba lessons. Chat with them and learn about their fascinating history, religion, and culture (granted you will struggle if you don’t speak Spanish since most don’t speak English; but they’ll go out of their way to try and there’s always Google Translate). Chances are they’ll invite you to their home or to a party, and you’ll leave with new lifelong friends.

And when it comes to nightlife, Santiago is second to none. There is a dizzying number of bars, clubs and other venues with live jazz, salsa, son, and other Caribbean music, all of course with spectacular dancing. So let your hair down and have fun. But don’t say I didn’t warn you. Santiago is addicting.

Have you been to Santiago de Cuba? What are your favorite things to do there? Share in the comments below.

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12 Things You Need to Know Before You Travel to Cuba (Legally)

January 20, 2016 by thetravelsista 3 Comments

UPDATED 2/1/2017

Although diplomatic relations between the United States and Cuba have been restored, US citizens and permanent residents are still prohibited from traveling to Cuba for purely tourism purposes. You may, however, travel to Cuba under a general license if your travel falls within one of the 12 categories of authorized travel and no prior application is required. For most people, educational activities, religious activities, support for the Cuban people, and humanitarian projects are the most appropriate categories to get there. Here are 12 things you should know before you go.

GETTING THERE

Several companies offer organized People to People tours for Americans. However, they tend to be pricey and the schedules are very regimented. Those willing to make their own arrangements and craft their own itineraries can save a bundle.

Commercial flights from the U.S. to Cuba resumed in August 2016, so Americans can now fly directly to Cuba instead of transiting through Mexico and other Caribbean cities. Ten U.S. airlines – American, Jet Blue, Alaska Airlines, Delta, Frontier, Silver Airways, Spirit, Southwest, Sun Country and United – now offer direct flights to Havana and other Cuban cities. have not yet resumed, so the only options are charter flights from the U.S. or connecting flights through Mexico and other Caribbean countries. Copa, Jet Blue, Interjet, Aeromexico, and Cubana all offer flights to Havana.

VISA

You need a visa to enter Cuba but they’re easy to obtain. I got mine at the airport in Cancun for only $20.00. If you travel with a U.S. airline ~~by charter~~, the airline will assist with ~~handle~~ your visa arrangements for an additional $50 to $100 ~~80 to $90~~. Cuba Travel Services also offers a visa service for $85. You have to fill out a form declaring that your travel falls under one of the 12 authorized categories.

MONEY

US-based credit cards don’t yet work in Cuba so Americans have to pay cash for everything. Cuba has two official currencies – the convertible peso or CUC (pronounced “kook”), which is mostly used by foreigners, and the Cuban peso or CUP (also known as “moneda nacional”), which is mostly used by Cubans. The conversion between CUC and CUP is 1 CUC = 25 CUP. The CUC is pegged at par with the US Dollar (USD). But there is a 10% penalty (due to the US embargo) and a 3% service charge when exchanging USD to CUC, so effectively 1 USD = .87 CUC. In order to avoid the 10 % penalty, some visitors exchange their USD to Euros before arriving.

Currency can be exchanged at banks or cadecas (exchange houses), but expect a wait because lines are usually long. Some hotels will also exchange currency (and you avoid the long lines). Make sure to request small bills because most people and businesses cannot make change for larger bills. Do not exchange money with strangers on the street, as some are known to peddle counterfeit bills.

WHERE TO STAY

If you want an authentic Cuban experience, staying at a Casa Particular (Casa for short) is the way to go. A Casa is a private family establishment that offers paid lodging, typically costing $20 to $75 per night. Breakfast may be included and many also offer lunch and dinner for an additional fee. I stayed in a private room with an amazing family that treated me like their daughter. I highly recommend it.

There are various types of Casas, including private rooms, apartments, or entire houses. Cuba Junky has a full list with photos and descriptions, and AirBnb also recently started to list Casas on its site. If you prefer hotels, La Habana guide has a comprehensive list of hotels in Havana and surrounding suburbs.

WHERE TO EAT

Cuba is not a culinary haven, but you can find some good meals at both government-run and private restaurants (aka paladares). Two of my favorite paladares were Habana 61 and 304 O’Reilly, both of which share the same name as their address. To eat on the cheap, try a government subsidized eatery or street food stall. Pizza, ham sandwiches, and a variety of fried fritters are popular fast food items.

6. TRANSPORTATION

Havana is very easy to navigate on foot and walking is the best way to get oriented to the city. But if you choose not to walk, the Havana Hop On Hop Off bus is the cheapest and easiest way to see most of the city in a day, at only 5 CUC per person. The tour bus operates from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm, on a half hour schedule. The bus often runs on Cuban time (in other words, late), so patience is needed. You can catch the bus at Parque Central in Old Havana.

Taxis are also a popular way to move about the city. There are several types, including bicycle taxis (aka bici-taxis), coco taxis, collectivos (shared taxis), and Cuba taxis. If you speak Spanish, you will have a huge advantage in hailing taxis. If not, be ready to negotiate and be sure to agree on a price before you enter the cab.

For inter-country travel, the Viazul bus is a good way to explore the island. Tickets can be purchased in advance via credit card on the Viazul website or in person at the bus station. Even with an online reservation, you must arrive at the bus station at least one hour before departure to secure an actual ticket. You should plan to buy tickets in advance, as popular locations often sell out. The bus is notoriously cold (think meat freezer), so make sure to layer and bring a blanket.

7. PHONE/INTERNET

Expect to be off the grid for most of your time in Cuba. Tourists cannot buy Sim cards for their cell phones, and thus far Verizon and Sprint are is the only US carriers to offer roaming. Another option is a world phone, but rates are pricey.

Tourists can access Wi-Fi by purchasing Wi-Fi cards at ETECSA offices or hotels. Wi-Fi is available only at certain hotels, which are easy to locate by the large groups of people standing outside on their cell phones. Wi-Fi can be spotty and slow, so don’t expect regular access.

8. AFRO-CUBAN MUSIC/RELIGION

With roots in Afro Cuban religion, Rumba is synonymous with Cuba (Rumba can collectively refer to the music, dance, and party). One of the best places to see it is at Callejon de Hammel in Centro Havana. Every Sunday from 12 to 3pm, there is a Rumba with music, dancing, singing and religious celebration. Both tourists and locals attend and it is non-stop action. Arrive early to secure a good spot since it’s standing room only.

RUM

Cuba is home to two popular drinks – the Mojito and the Cuba Libre – both of which are made with rum. Havana Club and Santiago de Cuba are two popular Cuban rum brands and both are delicious and very reasonably priced. The Havana Club Museum in Havana offers tours and rum tastings for 7 CUC.

CIGARS

True cigar aficionados will want to visit the tobacco farms, cigar factories, and panoramic sights in Vinales. It’s only a 1.5 to 2 hour ride from Havana and can be easily done as a day or overnight trip. For those who want to stay put in Havana, you can still see cigars being hand-rolled at the Hostal Conde de Villanueva. They sell an unbranded house cigar, as well as Cohiba and other popular name brands.

Cigars are a big hustle in Cuba. People will constantly approach you on the street purporting to sell authentic cigars at a discount. Buy at your own risk. Another tourist shared a story of a friend who purchased a case of cigars from a street vendor, only to find they were dry rotted and full of insects when she got home. Moral of the story – look before you buy.

TOILET PAPER

Cubans are experts at doing more with less. Most public locations have a bathroom attendant who rations out small pieces of toilet paper in exchange for coins (typically .25 or .30 CUC). But some places have nothing. For the ladies, I recommend packing a roll of toilet paper in your luggage and carrying some in your purse, just in case.

12. GIFTS

You may want to bring small gifts for Cubans who are especially friendly or helpful to you. Many Cubans don’t have easy access to items we take for granted, like memory sticks, lip balm, feminine products, and other toiletries. Another popular item is gum (sugar-free is probably best). Three separate times Cubans asked me if I had gum and I learned they don’t have it there anymore. I gave a piece to an older man, who chewed and savored it like it was a piece of steak (as he reminisced on the old days when Cuba had American gum). It was truly a lesson in learning to appreciate the small things.

Do you have any tips about Cuba? Please share them below.

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My First Impressions of Cuba

January 18, 2016 by thetravelsista 9 Comments

I’ve been wanting to go to Cuba for years. So when President Obama announced in December 2014 that the United States was restoring diplomatic relations, Cuba quickly jumped to the top of my travel bucket list for 2015. After much research and planning, I finally made it there in December. It was everything I could have asked for and more. Cuba made me think about life, family, community, politics, and economics more than any trip I’ve ever taken.

El Morro, Havana

Although it’s just 90 miles from the USA, Cuba is like a different world. The Afro-Cuban music and culture is amazing. Classic cars rule the road. There are no U.S. corporations – no fast food establishments, no big box stores, no chain restaurants, no Starbucks. The buildings are weathered, but the architecture is beautiful, with strong Spanish influences. And instead of company ads, the billboards all have political messages. Politics aside, it was a refreshing change from the bombardment of corporate marketing in the U.S.

Political sign in Santiago de Cuba. Translation: Rebellious yesterday, hospitable today, heroic always

This was my first visit to a communist country, and I was curious and asked plenty of questions. I generally found people willing and anxious to discuss Cuba’s past, present and future. I listened with dismay (and a bit of shame) as they shared stories of their struggles during the Special Period, when the double whammy of the dissolution of the Soviet Union and the U.S. embargo nearly crippled Cuba’s economy. Famine was common and people were forced to subsist on rations that were about 1/5th of their prior food consumption. Power outages were the norm, often lasting 15 to 20 hours a day. One man relayed his story with a sense of pride, saying that Cuba’s survival was proof that Cubans could withstand anything. Another taxi driver revealed that he had to sell his car and nearly everything that he owned to support his family during the Special Period. Twenty-five years later, he leases his taxi and still has not been able to purchase another car of his own. He sorely wants to leave Cuba.

Havana street art

Interestingly, no one complained about a lack of liberty or personal freedoms. The overwhelming grievance was that wages were too low and the government needed to do more to improve the economic condition of the people. Although most Cubans are well educated (tuition is free), many are unemployed. For those with jobs, the average wage is only 20-25 CUC per month (equal to $20-25 USD). For professionals with advanced degrees, like an accountant or lawyer, the average wage is $50-55 CUC per month. Even physicians only earn 75 CUC per month. Many professionals moonlight as taxi drivers to earn extra income, mostly from tourists. Some have even quit their jobs because they earn more money in the lucrative tourist industry. I suspect this phenomenon will only get worse as more American tourists arrive, because we are largely viewed as rich and able to spend lots of money.

El Morro, Havana

I left Cuba with the view that the Cuban people were the true pawns in this century long tiff between the U.S.A. and Cuba. Despite it all, they are incredibly welcoming to Americans and excited for what the future holds. I encourage you to go and see for yourself. Click here for helpful trip planning tips.

Have you traveled to Cuba? If so, what did you think about the social and economic situation? Share your comments below.

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Farewell 2015, Hello 2016

December 31, 2015 by thetravelsista 4 Comments

As 2015 draws to a close, I find myself reminiscing on my year in travel and recounting my progress on my bucket list. I once had a goal to take one big international trip per year. This year I visited seven countries and 21 cities on three continents – my biggest travel year yet. I also finally took that DNA test to determine my ancestral lineage and I’m anxiously anticipating the results. I’m sure I’ll be adding some new countries to the bucket list based on the findings. Until then, here’s a recap of my travels in 2015:

I started off the year with a road trip to New Orleans for Mardi Gras. I hung out with family, ate plenty of shrimp, beignets and gumbo, collected lots of beads, and even snagged a coveted coconut at the Zulu parade.

Me collecting beads at Mardi Gras

Thanks to a $178 glitch fare on Etihad Airlines, I touched down on the Asian continent for the first time with visits to Dubai and Abu Dhabi. I rode to the top of the Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest skyscraper, wore an abaya for the first time, and toured the magnificent Grand Mosque. This was my first foray into the Middle East and it surprisingly had me yearning to see more.

Burj Khalifa

Me at the top of the Burj Khalifa

Me in an abaya at the Grand Mosque

The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

I also returned to the Motherland thanks to the Etihad glitch, with visits to four countries in southern Africa. I attended the Cape Town Jazz Festival, hung out on Durban’s Golden Mile, visited Nelson Mandela’s childhood home and final resting place, drove the Panorama Route, and delighted in the animals at Kruger National Park in South Africa. I rode the infamous Sani Pass, went pony trekking, and stayed in a village in the mountains of Lesotho. I saw the Fish River Canyon, went sand boarding for the first time, and climbed a 260-foot sand dune in Namibia. And I trekked to Mantenga Falls and Ezulwini Valley in Swaziland. It all made me love Africa even more.

Table Mountain views, South Africa

Mantenga Nature Reserve, Swaziland

Fish River Canyon, Namibia

The highest pub in Africa, Lesotho

I stayed stateside over the summer, with visits to Navajo country and the Big Apple. I shot plenty of pictures at Antelope Canyon and Lake Powell in Arizona, but photographs just don’t do them justice. The entire area is nothing short of beautiful and amazing. If you haven’t yet been, you ought to. I also made a quick run to Brooklyn and was able to take in the Atlantic Antic Festival. As always, I marveled in the frenetic pace and the diversity of New York.

Upper Antelope Canyon

Lake Powell

Mountain views in Page, AZ

I ended the year with a visit to Cuba – the one place I’ve wanted to see for years, but never thought I’d be able to due to the US embargo. As a lover of Afro-Cuban music and salsa dancing, Cuba was everything I hoped for and more. I pray that the thawing of US-Cuba relations will lead to increased prosperity and opportunity for the Cuban people, who are some of the nicest folks on the planet.

El Morro, Santiago de Cuba

Rumba at Callejon de Hammel, Havana

Me and a 1953 Chevy

I haven’t yet finalized my travel plans for 2016, but Machu Picchu, Thailand and East Africa are all on my radar. I’ll also be writing more and sharing more travel deals and trip planning tips. Here’s to wishing you a Happy New Year and more passport stamps in 2016.

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