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Birthday Reflections: Good Food and Good Times

January 16, 2017 by thetravelsista 16 Comments

It’s my birthday today and as always a time of reflection. As I look back on the past year, it was mostly good (outside of the passing of my favorite musical artist Prince) and I was able to knock off a few items on my bucket list. Not surprisingly, I spent a lot of time doing two of my favorite pastimes – traveling and eating.

I started the year off at Mardi Gras in New Orleans, spending time with family and friends and adding more beads to my already large collection. Every time I go to New Orleans, I always over indulge and this time was no exception. Between the po-boys, beignets and red beans and rice, I got my fill of N’awlins cuisine and gained a pound or two in the process.

Mardi Gras fun

Mardi Gras Indians

Beignets

Next up was Turks and Caicos islands. I spent five days in Providenciales, where I laid eyes on some of the beautiful turquoise water I’ve ever seen. I was lucky enough to encounter JoJo, Grace Bay’s famous dolphin who’s known for approaching humans. He swam up to our boat as if to say hi, then playfully swam away. While there, I also ate some of my favorite Caribbean food – jerk chicken with rice and peas and grilled snapper.

Jojo the dolphin on Grace Bay, Providenciales

Jerk chicken with rice and peas

Grilled snapper with rice and peas

I ended the year on a whirlwind, with jaunts to London, Barcelona, South Africa, Morocco, Senegal and Ghana. I wasn’t a fan of the food in the UK, but Barcelona made up for it. I had an amazing seafood paella which I watched the chef prepare from beginning to end.

Me at Harrod’s of London

Paella fixins

Seafood paella, Barcelona

I visited Durban, South Africa for the first Essence Music Festival in Africa and spent time on the Golden Mile. Reminiscent of Miami’s South Beach, the Golden Mile is lined with hotels, restaurants, a casino, and a coastline as far as the eye can see. Durban has the largest Indian population outside of India and is the perfect place to indulge in Indian cuisine. I had my fill of bunny chow (a hollowed-out loaf of bread filled with curry) and biriyani.

I also returned to Ghana for the second time and explored more of the country, going as far north as the Burkina Faso border. I was there for the festive holiday season and ate lots of traditional Ghanaian cuisine, including banku, fufu, groundnut soup and my favorite, jollof rice.

Local performers at Essence Festival

The Golden Mile – Durban, South Africa

Black Star Square in Accra

Groundnut soup with banku

But my favorite culinary delights came from Senegal. On my first day, my hosts treated me to Senegal’s national dish, Thieboudienne (aka thebu jenn), a flavorful dish with fish, rice and vegetables. We washed it down with bissap, a drink made from dried hibiscus leaves. During my time in Senegal, I had other delicious meals like Thebu Yapp (a lamb and rice dish) and Yassa Poulet (chicken with onion sauce). Desserts were also heavenly. As a former French colony, one of the vestiges is great boulangeries and patisseries with croissants and pastries that rival those in Paris. Let’s just say that I had more than my fair share.

Theboudienne, Senegal’s national dish

Goree Island

Me at the Dakar corniche

Looking back on the past year, I’m amazed at the remarkable experiences I’ve had. I met a lot of new people, made a lot of new friends, and today I received birthday messages from all over the globe. It’s a testament to the power of travel and the gifts you receive if you step outside of your comfort zone. Although these gifts aren’t tangible, I cherish them all the same. I look forward to another year of traveling to far off places, eating new foods, and meeting new friends. My big goal this year is to finally tackle Machu Picchu. Wish me luck.

What do you enjoy most about traveling abroad? Share your comments below.

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The Top 8 Things to do in Mpumalanga

December 11, 2016 by thetravelsista 5 Comments

Going to South Africa? Here’s Why You Need to Visit Mpumalanga

With its stunning views of Table Mountain and the Atlantic Ocean, Cape Town regularly graces the lists of the world’s best places to visit. Indeed, most visitors to South Africa will spend time in Cape Town, Johannesburg, and maybe even Durban. But while each of those places offers its own unique attractions, “those in the know” know that Mpumalanga is not to be missed.

Mpumalanga (a Zulu word meaning “the place where the sun rises”) is a province in eastern South Africa, bordering the nations of Swaziland and Mozambique. Just a one hour plane ride or four hour drive from Johannesburg, Mpumalanga is a nature lover’s dream with big game animals, a bounty of flora and fauna, mountains, canyons, caves, rivers, and waterfalls. Aptly known as “Paradise Country”, Mpumalanga will treat you to some of the most breathtaking scenery you’ve ever seen. Here are my top 8 things to do there:

1. Kruger National Park

Kruger National Park is South Africa’s premier safari destination. Covering more than 7,523 square miles and extending over two provinces, it’s one of the largest game reserves in Africa. All of the Big Five game animals are found at Kruger, as well as 336 species of trees, 49 species of fish, 34 species of amphibians, 114 species of reptiles, 507 species of birds and 147 species of mammals. Most visitors to Kruger self-drive, but park rangers also offer morning, sunset and evening game drives. Guided nature walks (with armed field guides) are also available. Kruger has numerous rest camps, private lodges, and several restaurants, allowing visitors with reservations to stay overnight inside the park. Park accommodations should be booked well in advance to ensure availability.

Kruger National Park, Malelane Entrance Gate

2. Private Game Reserves

Set alongside Kruger’s unfenced western boundary, Kruger’s Private Game Reserves – Thornybush, Sabi Sand, Kapama, Timbavati, Manyeleti, Klaserie, and Balule – offer some of the most exclusive safari experiences in South Africa. These luxury accommodations don’t come cheap, but the expense is well worth it. Most offer morning and evening game drives with experienced rangers and trackers in private 4-wheel drive vehicles. Their ability to engage in safari activities not permitted in Kruger, such as off-road driving and spot lit night drives, increase the likelihood of closer and more frequent animal sightings. And after long mornings and evenings of game viewing, you’ll be treated to gourmet meals and other amenities, like private butler service, spa treatments and private suites with magnificent bush views. Everyone should have the experience at least once.

Infinity pool in the bush, Kirkman’s Kamp, Sabi Sand private reserve

3. Blyde River Canyon/Panorama Route

Blyde River Canyon is one of the largest canyons on Earth and considered by many to be the largest “green canyon” due to its lush sub-tropical foliage. Also known as Motlatse River Canyon, it is part of the Panorama Route, a scenic road covering nearly 240 miles and connecting several waterfalls, mountain passes and natural vantage points. Some of the popular natural landmarks include God’s Window, Bourke’s Luck potholes, the Pinnacle, the Three Rondavels, the Lisbon Falls, the Berlin Falls and the Mac Mac Falls. There also several historic and tourist towns along the route, including Pilgrim’s Rest, a restored gold mining town, and Graskop, reportedly home of the best pancakes in the southern hemisphere.

View from God’s Window, Blyde River Canyon

4. Shangana Cultural Village

Located midway between Kruger National Park and the Blyde River Canyon, the Shangana Village gives visitors a firsthand view of the way of life of the Shangaan people. The Village offers a variety of daytime and evening tours, some of which include traditional meals and/or performances by local dancers and drummers. The Marula Market allows craftspeople from all over the region to showcase and sell their traditional handcrafted art. The market is open daily from 9am to 5pm and entrance is free.

5. The Sudwala Caves

The Sudwala Caves are said to be the oldest caves in the world, formed about 240 million years ago. The Caves are open daily for tours from 8:30am to 4:30pm and the standard tour lasts one hour. Visitors will observe a variety of interesting stalagmite and stalactite formations, as well as primitive plant fossils and stone age tools from early inhabitants. Visitors will also be surprised to see a functioning amphitheater inside the Caves. For the truly adventurous, the 4-hour Crystal Tour takes visitors more than 6,500 feet inside in the Caves, on an excursion that involves wading through water, climbing up and down rocks, and crawling through small tunnels to see the amazing array of aragonite crystals. The Crystal Tour is offered on the first Saturday of each month or by arrangement for groups of 5 or more. Advance booking is required.

Stalagmite formation inside Sudwala caves

6. The Jane Goodall Institute South Africa Chimp Eden Sanctuary

If you ever watched the Animal Planet television series “Escape to Chimp Eden”, then you’ve seen the amazing work of Chimp Eden, the first and only chimpanzee sanctuary in South Africa. The sanctuary rescues chimps that have survived the bush meat trade, been orphaned, traded in the illegal pet market, or traumatized to provide entertainment in circuses, beach resorts or night clubs. Chimp Eden is open daily from 8:00am to 4:00pm and offers guided tours three times per day at 10:00am, 12:00pm and 2:00pm. The chimps are quite fascinating to watch in their semi-wild enclosures and their varied personalities and temperaments are readily seen. One chimp in particular, Cozi, is sure to entertain with his playful antics.

Chimp playing with tube, Chimp Eden Sanctuary

7. Elephant Sanctuary – Hazyview

The Elephant Sanctuary provides a safe haven for young African elephants in need of a temporary home. Visitors are able to touch, feed and get to know the animals while learning all aspects of elephants and elephant husbandry. The sanctuary offers a variety of elephant interaction programs, including hand-in-trunk walks, elephant brush downs, elephant rides and elephant keeper for a day.

8. Extreme and Adventure Sports

Those hooked on extreme and adventure sports and activities can certainly get their fix in Mpumalanga. Mpumalanga provides both beautiful surroundings and a myriad of activities to spike your adrenalin levels. The gorge swing, white water rafting, tubing, hang gliding, sky diving, zip lining, hot air ballooning, quad biking, mountain biking, hiking, abseiling, and rock climbing are among the many activities offered in the region. And as an added plus, many tour operators focus on eco-adventure, which involves minimizing impact on the land and increasing environmental and cultural awareness.

What is your favorite thing to see or do in Mpumalanga? Share your comments below.

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10 Black Vineyards, Winemakers and Wine Brands in South Africa

October 5, 2016 by thetravelsista 5 Comments

South Africa is among the top 10 wine producers in the world, producing more than 1,000,000 liters of wine per year. But while black and coloured* South Africans represent nearly 90% of the population, they remain woefully underrepresented in the $3 billion wine industry, at less than three percent. This great imbalance is a legacy of colonialism and South Africa’s apartheid past, when non-whites were prohibited from drinking or making wine and black ownership of land was limited.

Government land redistribution efforts and an affirmative action program known as Black Economic Empowerment (BEE) have been largely unsuccessful in increasing black ownership and participation in South Africa’s wine industry. Lack of collateral makes it near impossible for blacks to secure business loans from banks or funding from the government. Non-ownership of land, grapes or wineries and consumer reluctance to purchase wine brands with “African sounding” names have been additional obstacles. But despite these barriers, blacks are making inroads. Listed below are 10 black vineyards, winemakers and wine brands seeking to excel in South Africa’s competitive wine business.

Black Vineyards

Seven Sisters

Seven Sisters wine brand launched in 2007 and is owned and managed by coloured South African Vivian Kleynhans and her six sisters. The Seven Sisters wines are named after each sibling and the range consists of a Bukettraube (Odelia), Pinotage-Rose (Twena), Chenin Blanc (Yolanda), Sauvignon Blanc (Vivian), Pinotage/Shiraz (Dawn), Merlot (June) and Cabernet (Carol). The Seven Sisters vineyard, located in the Stellenbosch region of the Cape Winelands, is open to the public for tours and tastings by appointment. Seven Sisters can be contacted by phone at +27 710494109 or by email at vivian@africanrootswines.com. Seven Sisters wines are sold in the United States and South Africa.

M’Hudi

M’Hudi is a family enterprise owned and operated by the Rangakas, a black family who moved from Johannesburg to Cape Town in 2003 to realize their dream of owning a wine farm. With no prior winemaking experience, mother Malmsey, father Diale, and their three children, Tseliso, Lebogang, and Senyane have created a successful brand. M’hudi produces a “Premium” range (Sauvignon Blanc, Pinotage and Merlot) and an “On the Move” range (Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Pinotage, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon). M’hudi’s Stellenbosch vineyard is currently closed to the public, but expected to re-open in April 2017. M’Hudi wines are sold in South Africa.

Thandi

Thandi was South Africa’s first agricultural BEE project and is owned by 147 farm worker families who hold 62% shares in the company. Thandi produces five ranges of wine: Reserve Range (Cabernet Sauvignon), Premium Range (Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz), Pioneer Range (Chardonnay/Chenin Blanc, Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz/Rose, Sparkling Rose, Sparkling Red, and Sparking White), Rossouw Private Collection (Merlot/Cabernet and Pinotage) and JAC Range (Pinotage, Red Blend and Shiraz). Thandi’s Stellenbosch vineyard is open to the public for tastings, Monday through Thursday from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm and Friday from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm. Thandi wines are sold in Austria, Belgium, Canada, China, Finland, Germany, Hong Kong, Japan, Kenya, Norway, Russia, Sweden, South Korea, Sweden and South Africa.

Black Winemakers

Ntsiki Biyela

Ntsiki Biyela holds the distinction of being South Africa’s first black female winemaker. Biyela started her career in 2004 at the Stellenbosch vineyard of Stellekaya, where she is head winemaker. Biyela recently started her own Aslina wine brand, which is currently sold in the United States, Denmark and Germany. The Aslina brand will be sold in South Africa in 2017. Biyela has three Stellekaya varietals available at Wine for the World.

Carmen Stevens

Carmen Stevens is South Africa’s first coloured female winemaker and she has been the winemaker at Amani’s Stellenbosch vineyard since 2005. At Amani, Stevens makes a range of wines, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Rosé, Merlot, Shiraz, Pinotage, Cabernet Franc and a wine named I Am One, a Bordeaux/Shiraz blend. Stevens recently started her own wine brand, Angels Reserve, with the help of angel investors. Her wine can be purchased online at Naked Wines.

Heinrich Devon Keenen Kulsen

Heinrich Devon Keenen Kulsen is winemaker at Earthbound Wines, an organic and Fairtrade-certified range made from grapes supplied by Papkuilsfontein Vineyards in the Darling region of the Western Cape. The range consists of five varietals, four of which are organic: Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir (non-organic). Earthbound wines are sold in South Africa at Tops @ Spar and Darling Wine Shop, and online at Cyber Cellar.

Black Wine Brands

House of La RicMal

Malcolm and Ricardo Green are the father and son team behind the House of La RicMal, which has been in operation since 2008. Sourcing grapes from Darling, House of La RicMal produces two brands, La RicMal Supreme (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, and Sauvignon Blanc) and Lerato (Classic Red, Sweet Red, and Classic White). House of RicMal brands are sold in South Africa at Pick and Pay, Checkers, Tops @ Spar, Liquor City and Agrimark and also exported to Nigeria, Ghana, Mozambique, Malawi, and Angola.

House of Mandela

Dr. Makaziwe Mandela and Tukwini Mandela (the daughter and granddaughter of late South African president and freedom fighter Nelson Mandela) are the mother and daughter team behind the House of Mandela. The House of Mandela produces varietals under five labels: Deep River (Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot and Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay blends), Royal Reserve (Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Shriaz), Thembu Collection (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Pinotage, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc), Vusani (Chenin Blanc and Pinotage) and Brut (Sparkling Wine). House of Mandela wines are sold in South Africa, the United States, Canada, Turks and Caicos, Brazil, Germany, Netherlands, Taiwan and Japan.

Ses’fikile

Ses’fikile is 100% owned and controlled by black women. Ses’fikile sources grapes from the Wellington area of the Western Cape and produces six wines: Chenin Blanc, Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc and a Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend. Private tastings can be arranged by phone at +27 83 431 0254 or by email at sesfikile@gmail.com. Ses’fikile wines are carried in select South African restaurants and hotels.

Women in Wine

Founded in 2006 by a group of 20 women, Women in Wine partners with existing cellars and bottling companies to produce its wine. The Women in Wine label produces six wines: Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz, Pinotage Rose, and Chardonnay Chenin Blanc. The Women in Wine brand is sold in the USA, China, Ireland, Spain, Sweden and Denmark, and in South Africa at Makro stores.

*In South Africa, the term Coloured is an ethnic label for people of mixed ethnic origin who possess ancestry from Europe, Asia, and various Khoisan and Bantu ethnic groups of southern Africa. For purposes of this article, the term Black is used to refer to persons who identify as Black or Coloured.

Have you visited any of these vineyards or tasted any of the wine brands? What did you think? Share your comments below.

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Top 8 Things to do in Swaziland

June 25, 2016 by thetravelsista 3 Comments

Swaziland is the smallest country in the Southern hemisphere, with a population of 1.2 million people. It’s also one of the last remaining executive monarchies in Africa. Although it is not a popular tourist destination, it should be due to its stunning landscapes, wildlife reserves, and rich cultural heritage. Its close proximity to South Africa (just a 3.5 to 4-hour drive from Johannesburg), make it an easy add-on trip. Here’s my list of the Top Eight Things to Do there.

Mantenga Nature Reserve and Falls

Though small in size, this protected area is a nature lover’s dream, with hiking trails, wildlife, wooded areas and waterfalls. The Mantenga Falls are Swaziland’s best known falls and the largest by volume of water. Visitors can explore by foot, mountain bike or car, and there is a picnic area adjacent to the river below the falls.

Swazi Cultural Village

Located in the Mantenga Nature Reserve, the Swazi Cultural Village offers a firsthand peak into Swazi culture. The makeshift village, comprised of 16 huts, kraals and other structures, represents a traditional Swazi lifestyle from the 1850’s. A local guide explains local customs and history while guiding visitors through the grounds. The tour ends with a 45-minute, high-energy, action-packed dance and music performance by the men and women of the Mantenga Cultural Group.

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary

Swaziland has several wildlife sanctuaries for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts to explore. Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, located in Ezulwini Valley between Mbabane and Manzini, is Swaziland’s pioneer conservation area. Activities include mountain bike riding, horseback riding, game drives, guided bird walks and walking/hiking trails. Animal species in the area include Hippo, Crocodile, Zebra, Blue Wildebeest, Kudu, Nyala, Impala, Warthog, Waterbuck, Reedbuck, Steenbok, Grey Duiker, Klipspringer, Blesbok. and the elusive Leopard.

Execution Rock

Located at the peak of Nyonyane Mountain, inside the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, this historic rock offers amazing views of the Ezulwini Valley. According to ancient legend, it’s aptly named “Execution Rock” because Swazis suspected of witchcraft or criminals were forced to walk off the edge at spear-point, plunging to their death. Hiking remains the most popular way to reach the summit, which can also be reached by mountain bike or horseback.

Adventure Activities

Despite its small size, Swaziland brings the fun for adrenaline junkies. It offers variety of adventure activities from caving in a subterranean cave system to white water rafting on the Usutu River to zip lining in the Malolotja Nature Reserve.

House on Fire/Malandela’s

House on Fire is best known as the venue for Bush Fire, a popular cultural and music festival held each year in May. But even when it’s not hosting great music, the House on Fire is a destination unto itself. Spectacular mountain views serve as a backdrop for the unique artwork and sculptures that adorn the property. The House on Fire shares the grounds with Malandela’s bed and breakfast and restaurant, which has its own beautiful gardens, and Gone Rural, a women’s coop which sells colorful straw baskets and household accessories.

Ngwenya Glass

In operation for more than 20 years, Ngwenya Glass offers visitors the chance to watch local artisans who’ve perfected the art of glass blowing. Visitors can also purchase beautiful blown glass items on site, all made with 100% recycled glass.

Swazi Candles Centre

Since 1982, the Swazi Candles Centre has made decorative paraffin wax and organic soy candles. The colorful, intricately designed candles are created with hard wax and a technique called “millifiore” and are noted for the rich, romantic glow of the exterior shell. The Centre also houses a café and several other craft and souvenir shops.

What’s your favorite thing to do in Swaziland? Please share your comments below.

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How to Map the Countries You’ve Visited

May 30, 2016 by thetravelsista 2 Comments

Everyone knows that I love to travel. But the funny thing is, I’ve never kept count of how many countries I’ve visited — until today when #WhereMonicaGoes introduced me to Matador Network’s Travel World Map Generator. Come to find out, my number is 22.

The Travel Sista has been to: Bahamas, Brazil, Canada, Croatia, Cuba, France, Ghana, Italy, Jamaica, Lesotho, Mexico, Namibia, Puerto Rico, South Africa, Swaziland, Turks and Caicos Islands, U.S. Virgin Islands, United Arab Emirates, United States, Vatican, Zambia, Zimbabwe.

Considering that there are 196 countries in the world (that number is disputed largely due to political reasons), I’ve only covered about 11% of the globe. But I feel extremely blessed for the opportunity and the amazing experiences I’ve had in each country I’ve visited thus far. As Edith Wharton once said, “one of the great things about travel is that you find out how many good, kind people there are.”

Looking at my travel map, I definitely need to explore more of South America, Asia and Africa. I’ll be visiting several new African countries this year. I think 2017 will be my year to go on a tour of Southeast Asia and see more of the Middle East. In the meantime, I look forward to plowing down more things on my bucket list and reaching my 6th continent this year – Australia.

So, what’s your number? Please list your countries below or share your travel map.
Get your own travel map from Matador Network. It’s easy and fun.

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Namibia Overland: Swakopmund

April 26, 2016 by thetravelsista 23 Comments

Day 7 – Swakopmund

I ate a hot cooked breakfast, then left around 9:00 am for my quad biking and sand boarding tour. Lucky for me, I was the only one scheduled and it turned into a private tour. I was fitted for a helmet, then my guide and I hit the sand dunes, riding along a set trail so we wouldn’t injure or kill the protected wildlife there. The landscape was magnificent, but I was hopelessly lost as we traveled deeper and deeper into the maze of sand dunes.

More sand dunes

About an hour later, we stopped at one of the larger dunes for my sandboarding adventure. Since it was my first time, I had chosen the “Lie Down” sandboarding style (where you lie on the board and ride the dunes headfirst). My guide waxed the board and rubbed it with sand to prepare it for riding. Then he had me lay down on the board with the front slightly raised and my feet hanging over the back. I was a tad bit nervous and briefly questioned my sanity as I looked down. But I gave the OK and my guide nudged the board sending me off. My adrenaline kicked in as I sailed down the dune at breakneck speed. The ride was exhilarating but over in seconds, and I had to hike back up the dune (which was a chore). I rode down a second time and luckily this time my guide rode me back up on the quad bike.

Waxing the board

Smoothing the board with sand

Ready to go

After two runs, I’d had enough sand boarding and so we took off on the quad bikes to search for desert wildlife. The desert appeared lifeless at first glance, but upon a closer look it was alive with a variety of desert-adapted wildlife. My guide pointed out various hidden animals, including geckos, lizards, beetles, and spiders. The final highlight was seeing where the edge of the desert meets the Atlantic Ocean.

Lizard

Sand gecko

The desert meeting the sea

By the end of the ride, I was dirty, full of sand, and ready for a hot shower. After freshening up, I headed off to explore the town of Swakopmund. Situated on Namibia’s coast, Swakopmund is like a little Deutschland in Africa. The German colonial influence is present in the architecture and general ambience, and many of the retail stores and restaurants are German-owned.

German church

More German architecture

German cafe

I had worked up a serious appetite and stopped for lunch at The Fish Deli, a local seafood restaurant, where I ate fried hake and chips. Later, I walked the sea-front promenade, eating homemade ice cream while viewing the jetty, lighthouse, and exquisite waterfront homes in the area. I would be remiss if I didn’t admit I had mixed emotions about these obvious remnants of colonialism and apartheid.

The Fish Deli

Fried hake fish and chips

Swakopmund waterfront

I spent the last evening talking with one of my tour guides, Alfons, a native Namibian. We talked about past and present Namibian history, his heritage as a member of the Herero tribe, his multilingualism (English, Herero, and Afrikaans, which was required during the apartheid period), and his future plans to return to his village in northern Namibia. I left with a greater understanding of Namibia’s storied past and rich culture, and a strong desire to see more. I look forward to returning.

Have you been to Swakopmund, Namibia’s adventure capital? Did you participate in any adventure activities? Share your comments below.

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Namibia Overland: Namib Desert to Swakopmund

April 20, 2016 by thetravelsista 9 Comments

Day 6 – Tropic of Capricorn – Moon Landscape – Walvis Bay – Swakopmund

After a spectacular Day 5 in the world’s oldest desert, we hit the road early and headed towards our final stop, Swakopmund. En route we made several stops, the first at a farm ranch where we took a guided hike with a local expert. He walked barefoot as he showed us native plants and trees and described how his Bushmen ancestors survived in the harsh desert conditions.

Bushman guide

Desert adapted tree

Desert grass

Desert flower

We were fascinated as he shared a story of how he and two friends hiked through the Namib Desert, all the way to the Atlantic Ocean, carrying little food and water. They used dried reeds and empty ostrich eggs to collect water underneath the earth, then buried the eggs along the trail for their return trek back. Contrary to conventional wisdom, he said they drank limited water because excess consumption would lead to abdominal issues and exhaustion in the hot desert sun. Our excursion ended with a discussion of Namibia’s colonial history and another great lunch prepared by our guides.

Salad fixins and bread

Pasta and spaghetti sauce

Me and my guides, Gift (L) and Alfons (R)

Next, we stopped at the Tropic of Capricorn sign, which bore special significance to me since Capricorn is my zodiac sign. From there, we stopped at the Moon Landscape, so named for its distinctive moon-like topography. Barren and desolate, the Moon Landscape was formed when the Swakop River carved deep canyons into the granite rock. It was a stark reminder of nature’s power and beauty.

Me at the Tropic of Capricorn

Moon Landscape

We continued on to Walvis Bay, where we briefly stopped to walk along the seafront promenade and see the resident flamingos on the lagoon. This also gave us the perfect opportunity to view the extravagant waterfront mansions.

Flamingos in Walvis Bay

Walvis Bay Promenade

Waterfront mansion at Walvis Bay

Waterfront mansion at Walvis Bay

Thirty minutes later we made it to Swakopmund and our first stop was at Desert Explorers, an activity center which offers a variety of adventure activities including skydiving, quad biking, paragliding and sandboarding. I couldn’t leave Namibia’s adventure capital without indulging, so I chose a 3-hour combo quad biking and sandboarding tour for 9:00 a.m. the next morning.

By mid-afternoon, we finally arrived at our B&B, Stay @ Swakop Guesthouse, where I chilled until dinner. Our last group dinner was at Jetty 1905, a fancy restaurant located at the end of a landmark jetty that reaches out some 900 feet into sea. I had wine and grilled sole, served with potatoes and a vegetable medley, all of which was delicious. It was a fun evening with my new friends.

Jetty 1905

Group dinner

Grilled sole

Stayed tuned for Day 7

Have you traveled to Namibia? What was your favorite thing to do? Share your comments below.

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Namibia Overland: Namib-Naukluft Park

April 3, 2016 by thetravelsista 8 Comments

Day 5 – Dune 45 – Deadvlei – Sossuvlei – Sesriem Canyon

After an amazing Day 3 and 4, I was so enthralled with Namibia’s beauty that I didn’t think it could get any better. Little did I know that Day 5 would reveal a landscape so magical that it was like a scene from a movie. We left our lodge around 7:00 am and about an hour later arrived at Sesriem gate, the entrance to the Sossuvlei area of the Namib-Naukluft National Park. We were amazed by the enormous red sand dunes surrounding us at every turn.

Sand dunes at Namib-Naukluft Park

We drove along the paved road for about 30 minutes before finally arriving at Dune 45, one of the most famous dunes, so named because it is located 45 km past the Sesriem gate. Dune 45 is 80 meters (262 feet) high and believed to be composed of 5 million year old sand. We stopped and climbed to the top to enjoy the mind-blowing views. The slippery sand made the hike up quite strenuous and by the time we made it back down, we had worked up a serious appetite. Lucky for us, our guides had prepared breakfast on the truck and it was ready and waiting for us.

Dune 45

Me on top of Dune 45

After breakfast we continued on the paved road to Sossuvlei and Deadvlei, large salt-clay pans which are completely surrounded by some of the largest sand dunes in the world. The largest dune, named Big Daddy, measures 325 meters (1066 feet) high. Since Sossuvlei and Deadvlei are encircled, you must hike the dunes to get there. By then it was late-morning and the desert sun beamed on us like fire. We walked for about a mile to Deadvlei and when we finally arrived the view was surreal.

The trail to Deadvlei

Deadvlei

Deadvlei is marked by blackened dead acacia trees, which stand as a stark contrast to the white salt-clay pan and the red sand dunes. The trees, which are believed to have died 600-700 years ago, were scorched by the intense sun. They don’t decompose because it is so dry. We were living witnesses to the harshness of the environment and after walking back from Deadvlei, we were happy to see living trees with leaves, which we excitedly used for shade from the sun. Luckily, we were able to ride over to Sossuvlei in a covered 4×4 truck.

4×4 park shuttle truck

Sossuvlei

Next we stopped for lunch, then headed to the Sesriem Canyon, a natural canyon of sedimentary rock carved by the Tsauchab River. It measures approximately one kilometer (0.6 miles) long and up to 30 meters (100 feet) deep and is one of the few places in the area that holds water year round. Because it was dry season, we were able to climb down into the canyon to explore and examine the different rock formations.

Sesriem Canyon

Inside Sesriem Canyon

It was late afternoon by the time we left Sesriem Canyon and we were hot, sweaty and tired. We returned to our lodge and once again I was able to sit on my patio and revel in the fascinating views of the Tsaris mountains. I even caught a glimpse of mountain zebras racing through the mountains. Life was good. Next up was Day 6.

The view from my patio

Have you seen the sand dunes in Namibia? Share your comments below.

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Namibia Overland: Fish River Canyon to Tsaris Mountains

March 27, 2016 by thetravelsista 6 Comments

Day 3 – Fish River Canyon – Ai-Ais

After a fabulous Day 1 and 2, I awoke to a magnificent sunrise over the Orange River. Our guides had been up since 6:00 a.m. cooking breakfast, which we ate while discussing the day’s activities. We left around 9:00 a.m. and headed north to the Fish River Canyon, the world’s second largest canyon. Though visually not as majestic or breathtaking as the Grand Canyon (the world’s biggest), Fish River Canyon is still impressive and awe-inspiring in its own right. We enjoyed a scenic walk along the canyon’s edge before heading to the on-site camp area for a group prepared lunch of salad and sandwiches.

Fish River Canyon

Me at Fish River Canyon

Fish River Canyon campsite area with overlook

We left the canyon by mid-afternoon and drove to the Ai-Ais Hot Springs Resort, where we would spend the evening. Ai-Ais (pronounced eye ice) means burning water in the local Nama language and refers to the sulphurous thermal hot springs located at the base of the mountain peaks near the southern end of the Fish River Canyon. The resort filters the hot spring water into a massive indoor jacuzzi with three interconnected pools. I had a nice relaxing soak for about an hour, then returned to my room for a hot shower. I was so relaxed, that I dozed off and missed dinner with the group.

Ai-Ais Resort

Ai-Ais bar and restaurant

Hot springs jacuzzi

Day 4 – Ai-Ais – Tsaris Mountains

I woke up early the next morning, refreshed and ready for another day of adventure in the Namibian desert. I stepped out onto my balcony to take in the fresh air and gaze at the beautiful mountain views surrounding me. A short while later, I made the mistake of leaving the patio door open while I went to the bathroom. The next thing I know, I heard rustling in the room and ran back in time to see a monkey making his escape out the patio door. He had stolen some sugar packets and knocked the sugar bowl on the floor in the process. Needless to say, I was startled and immediately closed the door to avoid a repeat. Later that morning, we had a tasty buffet breakfast then hit the road around 8:30 a.m. This was a full day of driving, as we covered nearly 400 miles from southern to central Namibia. We saw the vast, desolate arid landscape and a variety of wildlife, including giraffes, ostriches, and mountain zebras. Along the way, we stopped for lunch at a roadside campsite. We ate sandwiches and salad, while scoping out local birds, flora and fauna. Our guides were a wealth of knowledge, and Alfons, who is Namibian and from the Herero tribe, was excited to share information about his country and culture.

Gazelle

Giraffe

Ostriches

Yellow bird

Bird nests

By early evening, we arrived at Zebra River Lodge, where we stayed for two evenings. It was a small, secluded property, with individual cottages nestled deep in the Tsaris mountains. The grounds were meticulously landscaped, with breathtaking mountain and desert views. The large veranda was the perfect place to have drinks and watch the sun go down, and we spent the evening doing just that. It was another magical night in Africa and a prelude for what was to come on Day 5.

Zebra River Lodge veranda

My chalet with patio

Pool and mountain views

Have you traveled to Namibia or would you like to? Share your comments below.

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African Overland Adventure: Cape Town to Namibia

March 26, 2016 by thetravelsista 5 Comments

Namibia was my last stop in southern Africa and I decided to go overland rather than fly. Although I’d spent much of my trip solo, planning my own itinerary and often driving myself, for this leg I decided to join a group tour. I elected the 7-day accommodated Desert Explorer tour with Nomad Adventure Tours, which starts in Cape Town, South Africa and ends in Swakopmund, Namibia (they also offer a camping tour which I decided against). I ended up being the only American, black girl, and youngest person in our group of 12 (which included six Germans, four Canadians, one British and me). But we bonded and had a fun time over the course of seven days. It was an amazing experience and the perfect end to my time in southern Africa.

Day 1 – South Africa, Cedarberg Region

As instructed, I arrived at the Nomads Cape Town office at 7:30 a.m. with one soft duffle bag and a backpack (we’d been instructed not to bring roller bags or large pieces of luggage because they could not fit on the truck). After checking in, we boarded the large truck, secured our bags in the on-board lockers, and met our guide, Gift, and driver, Alfons. After a quick de-briefing and group introductions, we left around 8:30 a.m. and headed to Table View, a Cape Town suburb named for its view of Table Mountain from across Table Bay. Unfortunately for us, a thick fog partially obscured the beautiful view and dashed our dreams of capturing the perfect photo. By early afternoon, we arrived in Citrusdal, a small village in the Cedarberg region known for its abundance of citrus orchards and rooibos plants which are endemic to the area. There we stopped at Hebron — a working farm, restaurant, guesthouse and farmstall — for lunch and tastings of locally-produced rooibos tea and wine. We tasted two flavored rooibos teas, vanilla and black currant, and three wines, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Merlot, all of which were tasty. After the tasting we checked into our hotel and relaxed for several hours before heading back to Hebron for a private dinner. The owner, Chef Steve, cooked a succulent meal of steak, mashed potatoes and gravy, and sautéed spinach, which was accompanied by a local Chardonnay we purchased during the earlier tasting. For dessert, he made a flourless cake with raspberry sauce, which was also delicious. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful day and the perfect start to a fantastic week.

Hebron

Citrus trees

Wine tasting room

Rooibos tea and wine tasting at Hebron

Dinner at Hebron

Day 2 – Namibia, Gariep (Orange) River

We woke up early the next morning, and after a tasty buffet breakfast at the hotel, we hit the road headed north towards the Namaqualand region in the Northern Cape of South Africa. About four hours later, we arrived in Springbok, the capital of Namaqualand. Though we wouldn’t see it, Namaqualand is best known for the annual spring phenomenon (July to September) when millions of wild flowers bloom to life transforming the normally dry landscape into an explosion of color. After a quick bit of shopping, sightseeing and lunch, we returned to the road, finally arriving at the South Africa-Namibia border about two hours later. We entered Namibia at the Noordoewer/Vioolsdrif border crossing and proceeded on about 15 minutes later after getting our passports stamped. We were pleasantly surprised when we arrived at our nearby lodging, Felix Unite Camp, located on the banks of the Orange River. Our thatched huts had private patios and stunning mountain and river views. While some of the group went hiking or swimming, I spent the rest of the day sitting on my patio, drinking wine and taking it all in. The setting was just magical.

Riverfront cabana at Felix Unite Camp

My view of the Orange River

Chillin

Stay tuned for Days 3 and 4

**This tour was booked by Detour Africa, which graciously offered a discount for my review. All descriptions and opinions are my own. Detour Africa offers a variety of private and group tours and safaris, catering to any budget, large or small.

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