The Travel Sista -

Southern Italy

October 21, 2014 by thetravelsista 3 Comments

I finished my tour of Italy in the South. I took the Trenitalia fast train from Rome to Naples (about 70 minutes), then transferred to the Circumvesuviana train from Naples to Sorrento (about 1 hour). I had rented a furnished apartment for 3 days and was met at the train station by the apartment owner who gave me a ride in his Mercedes. The apartment was only three minutes away, but after lugging my bags through three train stations, I was happy for the ride. He showed me around the apartment and gave me tips on restaurants and things to do. He recommended Pizzeria da Franco for pizza, so I tried it out for dinner. I had a green salad and a Margherita pizza with red sauce, mozzarella, and basil. It came out hot and fresh from the wood fired oven and the taste was amazing – probably the best pizza I’ve ever had.

I woke up the next day still thinking about that pizza, so I went back to Pizzeria da Franco for a late breakfast/early lunch. I was the first one there, but as it got later more people showed up; clearly it was popular with the locals. I enjoyed looking at the display of homemade breads and cheeses, as well as fresh meats and olives. I was even more impressed with the place when I saw a waitress give two free pizza slices to a homeless man who came asking for food (I can’t think of the last time I’ve seen that at home). After I finished my meal (yes, it was just as good as the first time), I headed to the nearby bus station and bought a ticket for the SITA bus to the Amalfi Coast. At €6.80 for a round trip ride, the ticket was a great deal. The SITA bus wasn’t like a regional bus in the USA, but more like a tour bus with clean interiors and comfy fabric seats. During the 1.5 hour ride, we traversed the narrow mountain road through Praiano, Positano, and Amalfi and were treated to amazing cliff side views of the coast and Mt. Vesuvius. I got off in Amalfi to do some sightseeing and enjoy some Italian treats.

My first stop was a street vendor selling lemon granitas, a frozen dessert that’s like a cross between sorbet and snow cones. Made with local Amalfi lemons, it was cold, fresh and tasty, the perfect treat for a hot, sunny summer day. The vendor, Andrea, struck up a conversation with me and even offered (flirtatiously) to give me a ride back to Sorrento on his scooter. I graciously declined and went on my way to explore the city. I walked down to the beach which was packed with people sunbathing and relaxing under brightly colored umbrellas. After a quick walk in the sand, I headed back up to explore the stores and souvenirs shops; I viewed a variety of clothes, ceramics, lace, and of course, lemon-related items and bought a few souvenirs. Along the way, I stopped for a tiramisu gelato on a cone. Needless to say, this wasn’t a time of dieting for me.

Amalfi was beautiful with many hillside buildings overlooking the coast. It was vibrant with many small boats and ferries docked at the shore and tons of people walking the streets. After several hours, I was ready to return to Sorrento. However, getting back there was an adventure. It seemed as though all the bus drivers were simultaneously on break, and thus most of the buses were parked as hundreds of people waited for the northbound ride. Finally, after nearly 30 minutes a northbound bus arrived. Unfortunately, it was already packed with people and I had to stand for most of the trip. I was jerked and prodded for nearly an hour as people entered and exited the bus. I was excited (and so were my feet) when I got a seat for the last 30 minutes of the ride. Back in Sorrento, I window shopped along the main street, Corso Italia, before heading back to the apartment for the evening.

On my second full day, I had intended to visit Capri and Positano but the weather had other plans. I woke up to a rain storm that lasted for most of the day. I was stuck inside until about 2 pm, when the hard rain finally petered out. The clouds suggested the rain would return, but I took advantage of the break to explore the city. I headed out to Piazza Tasso in downtown Sorrento, stopping for a late lunch. I took a break from pizza and pasta and ate roasted chicken and vegetables instead. After lunch, I walked through downtown exploring the local stores, souvenir shops and a historic church. I was out for several hours before I started to feel light rain drops. I decided to make my way back to the apartment, and sure enough, not long after I got back the heavy rain returned. I guess the rain gods were looking out for me.

The next day, my last in Southern Italy, I took the Cirumvesuviana train back towards Naples. The train was an adventure in itself. It was packed with people (mostly tourists) and musicians walked though the train playing music and seeking tips from riders. After about 45 minutes, we arrived at the Ercolano Scavi station which is the stop for Herculaneum. While most have heard about Pompeii, which was destroyed by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 A.D., few know about the nearby town of Herculaneum (Ercolano in Italian) which was also destroyed. I’d read that the Herculaneum site was smaller and better preserved than Pompeii, so with my limited time I chose to visit there. At the entrance, an Italian guy named Luciano offered guided tours for 10 euros per person. I joined his group and soon we were off for the tour. Luciano shared historical information and offered insight into various buildings we viewed. I was glad I’d taken the tour because there was limited signage and his explanations helped me visualize things as they were many years ago. After the 1.5 hour tour, Luciano and I took a photo together and bid each other farewell. I strolled around the site for another 30 minutes before heading back to the train station for my return to Rome. I flew back home the following morning leaving a little bit of my heart in Italia.

What is your favorite thing to do in Southern Italy? Share your comments below.

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My First Trip to Rome

September 27, 2014 by thetravelsista 2 Comments

I arrived in Rome on an early Monday morning. After breezing through customs, I purchased a ticket for the Leonardo Express train, then hopped on board for my ride to the city. Following a scenic ride, we arrived at the Termini train station about 25 minutes later. I expected a small train station like most in the USA, but it was massive with restaurants and retail shopping on two levels. I was intrigued and walked around to survey the scene. Downstairs, I purchased a SIM card for my Iphone, then stopped for breakfast at a small coffee shop. I has a croissant and Grancrema, a frozen coffee drink that became one of my many guilty pleasures on the trip. After a bit of window shopping, I took a cab from Termini to my rental apartment in the Prati area.

Piazza Cavour

I was tired after my 9.5 hour flight and in desperate need of a nap. I slept for about 4 hours, then freshened up with a hot shower. After checking my social media, finally I headed out for a walk around the neighborhood. I eventually ended up at Piazza Cavour (Cavour Square), which was like an urban park with grass, palm trees and benches. While I was sitting, a friendly older Italian man sat next to me and struck up a conversation. It didn’t go very far since I don’t speak Italian and he didn’t speak English. But I was at least able to share that I was from the USA and it was my first time visiting Italy. Later that night, I had my first Italian dinner at Trattoria Memmo (olive bruschetta, mista salad and penne arrabiata) – it was delicious.

Fountain at Piazza Navona

The next morning, I got up and had breakfast at a nearby coffee shop, then headed off for some sightseeing. I started again at Piazza Cavour, which became my favorite place to sit, relax, and revel in my surroundings (often with gelato in hand). Piazza Cavour overlooks the enormous Palace of Justice which spans the length of the square. Although many Italians refer to it as Il Palazzaccio, “the ugly palace”, it was anything but ugly to me. The large size, bronze quadriga, and the ornate columns and statutes speak to the opulence that was a sign of the time it was built. I next walked to see the nearby Castel Sant’ Angelo, then crossed the river and headed to Piazza Navona, a popular tourist hangout with a trio of fountains and a variety of street performers, painters, and vendors. I took pictures and people-watched for a while, stopping for some lemon gelato along the way. Next, I headed to Campo dei Fiori, a large open air market. Vendors sold a variety of fresh fruit, vegetables, pasta, and flowers, and it was interesting to watch Italians go about their daily business. Numerous restaurants, bars and pubs also surrounded the square making it a meeting point for both locals and tourists. I stopped for a lunch of pizza, salad and wine. Later, I went on to see the Pantheon, the Italian Parliament building, and a host of other beautiful historic buildings.

Palace of Justice

I got off to a late start on Wednesday, so I took a taxi to the Vatican near St. Peter’s Basilica. I’d been forewarned, but little could have prepared me for the organized chaos that is Vatican City. As we drove up, I was amazed by the gargantuan complex and the huge crowds outside. I snapped some photos then walked around trying to get my bearings. I had a 1:00 p.m. reservation at the Vatican Museum so I decided to pass on the long line to enter the Basilica. It took me about 20 minutes to walk from the Basilica to the Museum (yes, the Vatican grounds are that large), and as I got close I noticed another extremely long line. A sense of dread overtook me, but my fears were quickly allayed when I saw the line was for people without tickets. I was a bit early, but since I had a reservation I breezed through the next line and went right into the building. Once I looked at the site map and saw the vast offerings, it was clear that I’d be there for a while (and still probably would not see everything). I was hungry by then, so I went downstairs to the cafe for pizza and tiramisu, both of which were surprisingly good. After lunch, I headed back upstairs to start my audio tour. The museum’s art collection was amazing, outdone only by the ornate and elaborately decorated ceilings, walls and floors. After passing thru a seemingly unending maze of art and artifacts, and being tussled and elbowed by crowds of people, I finally made it to the Sistine Chapel. The ceiling frescoes painted by Michangelo were amazingly detailed and beautiful. But the crowds were so massive (and confining) that I only stayed a short while before heading outside to the gardens. It was a gorgeous, sunny day and I spent a good hour enjoying the courtyard fountain and relaxing my tired feet. I finally left at 6:00 p.m., as the museum was closing.

Vatican Museum and Gardens

My friend Sylvia joined me in Italy on Thursday. We walked around the city, aimlessly roaming and taking in the sights. We ended up in Trastavere, which turned out to be my favorite neighborhood. It was bustling with locals, so it gave us a chance to really see the everyday life of Italians. People congregated in the piazzas, enjoying time with family and friends and watching the various street performers. There were numerous stores, restaurants, pubs, and gelato shops right within the community. We strolled through the streets, window shopping and eating gelato (strawberry and kiwi for me) and other sweets. We saw beautiful hand-crafted leather purses, shoes, and jewelry. After a couple hours, we stumbled upon Cave Canem Trattoria, where we stopped for dinner. We had a salad and delicious salmon and shrimp pizza, accompanied by wine, of course. During dinner, we were serenaded by musicians and entertained by a magician. The culture was fascinating – people went for dinner after 8:00 p.m. and even after 10:00 p.m. families were still out with the kids. You’d never know it was a week night.

Sylvia and I

On Friday, we took the metro to the Colosseum. As soon as we exited the metro station, we could see the hulking monument right in front of us. Luckily, the lines weren’t long and we entered rather quickly. It was incredible to see this thousands-year-old building still standing strong. Most of it is surprisingly well preserved, despite its storied history. Next, we headed over to Palatine Hill and the Forum. We snapped a few pics, then took the metro over to the Spanish Steps which was packed with people. It was clear we were in the “high rent district”, as we saw all the high end stores like Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Prada. We strolled the area, then stopped for drinks of limoncello and people watching. Later, we had dinner and drank wine at Numbs before heading in early to get ready for our morning flight to Croatia.

I had an enjoyable and relaxing week in Rome. My favorite thing about Rome was the laid-back lifestyle and the many piazzas and restaurants where you can drink wine, eat gelato, and take in the beautiful views. What do you like about Rome? Share your comments below.

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Loíza: Puerto Rico Off the Beaten Path

July 18, 2014 by thetravelsista Leave a Comment

Many tourist guide books completely omit Loíza or tell you to avoid it because it’s too dangerous and poor. However, locals and adventurous tourists know that Loíza is the Afro-Caribbean soul of Puerto Rico and it’s worth a visit, especially on the weekend. Although it doesn’t have many tourist offerings, it has a rich culture and energy that you don’t find on other parts of the island. I’m told the town especially comes alive in late July, during its weeklong annual Festival of St. James.

Welcome sign to Loíza

Loíza is located on Puerto Rico’s northeast coast, just a short 15-minute drive from San Juan. It was settled in the 16th century by freed and escaped Nigerian slaves from the Yoruba tribe and it retains the highest percentage of African descendants on the island. Their music and traditional food is woven into the Puerto Rican culture and can be found in all its splendor in Loíza. Local attractions include a nature boardwalk and bicycle path, the San Patricio Catholic Church (one of the oldest churches on the island), and the Maria de la Cruz Cave (where the oldest human remains recorded in Puerto Rico were found).

On my way to Loíza, I passed through Piñones, the beachfront community of kiosks (kioskos) and restaurants that sell a variety of Puerto Rican fried fritters (frituras) and street food. I stopped at the popular “Kiosko El Boricua” where I had chicken Pinchos (Puerto Rican shish kabobs). The cooks were decidedly of African descent and darker complected than other Puerto Ricans I’d seen on the island. But it was of no consequence, as people of all hues waited in the long line to place their order. It was a fun, friendly atmosphere as the DJ spun the latest Puerto Rican beats and the bar served ice cold beer. The various smells of grilled and fried food wafting through the air were heavenly.

Pinchos

The traffic was heavy and I spent about an hour cruising the beach and taking in the sights and sounds. Bomba music with its strong drum beats (derived from the music of African slaves) and reggaeton could be heard blaring from beachfront speakers (several popular musical artists have their roots in Loíza, including Daddy Yankee and Don Omar). Stilt walkers (gigantes) danced around as people enjoyed the sun and beautiful beach views, and the mood was carefree and festive. It was an enjoyable afternoon and I’m glad I made the last minute decision to go.

The next time you visit Puerto Rico, make your way over to Loíza if you want a break from the typical tourist attraction and you don’t mind hanging with the locals. But be sure to practice up on your Spanish. You just might need a word or two.

Do you have an Off-The-Beaten-Path tale? If so, please share it below.

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Easter in Puerto Rico

July 12, 2014 by thetravelsista Leave a Comment

At the last minute, my sister and I decided to go away for Easter this year. We wanted sun and beach but weren’t particular about location, so we looked for airfare sales. When we found round trip tickets to San Juan for $337, it was a no brainer – Puerto Rico it was! We booked our tickets three weeks before departure and started working on an itinerary. This would be my second trip to PR and I wanted to explore the island. We ultimately decided to stay in two locations: Luquillo, on the northeast coast, and San Juan, the capital and largest city.

El Morro Fort, Old San Juan

We landed on Easter Sunday around 2 pm in the afternoon. After a 30-minute drive from the airport, we arrived at our beachfront vacation condo at Playa Azul in Luquillo. We got there around 4pm, early enough to spend a couple of hours on the beach before sunset. The beach was packed with mostly locals and a few tourists enjoying the beautiful weather and views. Later on for dinner, we ventured out to Rincon del Sabor, a family-owned restaurant operated by Luis and his chef wife, Carmen. I had the Snapper Creole (Criollo) served with rice and beans (which I learned are called arroz con habichuelas, not frijoles as beans are called in Spanish in Mexico). It was delicious! Luis was the ultimate host during the meal and made me feel like family. When the meal was done, we shared a shot of his strong homemade moonshine.

Me and Luis taking a shot

On the Monday after Easter, which was a Puerto Rican holiday, we headed to Luquillo Beach (Balneario Monserrate). It was a sunny, hot day and the beach was packed with mostly families and groups of young people. We spent the entire day there, meeting friendly people on the beach and soaking up the sun and fun. By late afternoon we had built up an appetite, so for dinner we went back to visit Luis and his family at Rincon del Sabor. Once again, the food was good, the service was great, and we had a blast. We were even serenaded by Luis’ friend who stopped by to say hi; his voice was beautiful.

Chillin at Luquillo Beach

On Tuesday, we visited the island of Culebra. We mainly wanted to see Flamenco Beach, which was recently named one of the top 10 beaches in the world (Yes, it lived up to its billing). The beach was beautiful with fine, white sand and crystal clear, warm water, but it took some effort to get there — first, we had to drive from Luquillo to the ferry dock in Fajardo (about 20 minutes away); then, we bought our tickets and stood in line for over an hour before boarding the ferry; then, we took an hour-long ferry ride; finally, after arriving on the island, we rented a golf cart and rode to Flamenco Beach. It was another hot, perfect day for lounging on the beach and we stayed for several hours before leaving to see more of the island. Next, we took the bumpy ride to Tamarindo Beach, which is known for its reef and snorkeling with sea turtles. We didn’t snorkel, so we missed out on the wildlife, but it was pretty nonetheless. After taking some photos, we left there and explored the entire island for about an hour before heading back to catch our return ferry.

Me at Flamenco Beach

On Wednesday, our last day in the Luquillo area, we went to El Yunque, the only rain forest in the U.S. National Park system. It was just as beautiful as I remembered. We drove around gazing at the lush greenery before stopping to take pictures at one of the many waterfalls. We then took an hour long hike on the La Mina trail. The heat and high humidity got the best of us so we didn’t make the full hike, but still there were beautiful views at every turn.

El Yunque rainforest

After El Yunque, we headed back to San Juan where we stayed for the rest of the trip. By the time we arrived and got checked into our hotel, we were both hungry and tired so we decided to eat dinner at the hotel. I tried another Puerto Rican dish, Mofongo (mashed plantains) with garlic chicken, which was tasty and filling. We met a nice Puerto Rican couple seated next to us, and we talked and shared cocktails over dinner. They invited us to hang out with them and see another part of the island before we left. Of course, we accepted and made plans to spend the day together on Friday.

On Thursday, we went to the Plaza Las Américas mall in San Juan (at the suggestion of our new friends Lee and Yemilyn). This huge shopping center is like a typical American mall, with Sears, JCPenney, Macy’s, a movie theater, and a variety of restaurants. We walked around most of the mall, but found no deals good enough to travel with back home. So after several hours we left and decided to explore more of the city. We finally ended up in Old San Juan for some sightseeing, souvenir shopping, and early dinner. We returned to the hotel in time for the free happy hour and I double-fisted two rum punches while strolling the nearby Isla Verde beach.

Chillin under a mangrove tree on Pozuelo beach

Hangin’ with Lee and Yemilyn in Guayama

On Friday, we met up with Lee and Yemilyn for a day of fun and sun. We followed them to Guayama, on the south coast, and after several twists and turns on the back roads we arrived at the hidden Pozuelo beach. We found shade under a mangrove tree and had the beach to ourselves for most of the day. Between dips, we drank beer and wine and had great conversations about life in the United States and Puerto Rico. We ended the day with finger foods, drinks and dancing at El Balcón de Gerald, a outdoor neighborhood bar. We had a wonderful day and vowed to meet up again during my next trip to PR.

On Saturday, we spent the day in Old San Juan. We started out in the morning flying kites near El Morro Fort. It was teaming with other people doing the same. Later, I visited the Museo de la Americas which celebrates the influence of Indian, African and European peoples on Puerto Rican history and culture. There were eight exhibition rooms, including three permanent collections: Traditional Art of the Americas, The Indian in America, and African Heritage. I especially enjoyed the museum because the exhibits are written from a non-colonial perspective (with both English and Spanish translations). Later that afternoon, we headed to Loiza, on the northeast coast. I’d learned it was the center of Afro-Puerto Rican culture so I wanted to go before I left. I didn’t get to spend much time there, but I enjoyed it and I’m glad I made the time to visit. I’d definitely go back.

I returned home the following morning, reminiscing about the trip and thinking about what I wanted to see on my next visit. With cheap airfares, no passport needed, friendly people, and plenty of beaches, nature, culture and history, Puerto Rico is the perfect getaway from the USA.

What do you like about Puerto Rico? Share your thoughts below.

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Exploring Ghana

June 14, 2014 by thetravelsista Leave a Comment

My last stop on the African continent was West Africa, namely Ghana. Since this was my first time there and I only had a week, I decided to use a tour operator rather than navigate the country on my own. I decided on Jolinaiko Eco Tours, a Ghana-based company that provides custom tours and also partners with several villages for eco-tourism projects. The price was right and it met my desire that locals benefit from my tourist dollars.

Customs line at Kotoka Int’l Airport (Accra)

I arrived in Accra around 7:30 pm on a Friday night. Two other flights had just arrived before mine, so the line for customs (non-Ghanaians) was extremely long. After about an hour and a half, I finally made it through customs, grabbed my luggage and met my driver Wisdom outside. We packed up and headed to the Sunbird Lodge, Jolinaiko’s bed and breakfast located about 20 minutes away in the suburb of Amrahia; I stayed there overnight before starting my tour. Wisdom was my personal tour guide for the week and I highly recommend him.

Wisdom and I

I woke up early the next morning to a bright, sunny day. After a homemade breakfast of scrambled eggs, toast and fresh fruit, Wisdom and I headed out for the two-hour drive to the Volta region in eastern Ghana. Along the way, we passed through several small towns where I got a glimpse into daily Ghanaian life. Locals sold clothing, food and other items from roadside stands. Others stood in the road selling a variety of fresh fruit, fried plantain chips (which were delish) and tea bread. I was astonished by the plethora of churches and church-related billboards; clearly, Western Christianity has taken a stronghold in Ghana. I was even more floored by the numerous cell phone ads and stores; it was an odd sight considering the obvious poverty. Wisdom and I had some interesting talks about Ghanaian history, life and culture and his Ewe heritage. Wisdom was very knowledgeable and personable.

River ferry canoe to Atsiekpoe Village africa 2013 471 africa 2013 445

Our first stop was the village of Atsiekpoe (aka Cashew Village). It lies on the Volta river bank and can only be reached by crossing the river on a ferry canoe. After a quick five minute ride, I arrived at the village where several women were washing clothes in the river. I was soon met by my two young tour guides who walked me around the village. They showed me various buildings, houses, and schools, most of which were made of termite clay and covered by grass thatch roofs. I also saw their small herd of goats, the gardens where they grow fruits and vegetables, and how they make handmade tools and charcoal. There was limited electricity and no running water. About halfway through the tour, we stopped at the home of Adawu, the village elder and historian. He welcomed me and invited me into the small hut, where he shared a thorough history of the village. We also talked about his life and work history, as well as mine in the USA. I was amazed by his memory and cognitive abilities, especially after I learned he was 95 years old. We talked for nearly 30 minutes and I felt honored for the experience. Before I left, I asked to take his photo, which he obliged only after putting on his sunglasses (I learned he was blind during our talk, but it wasn’t otherwise obvious). The tour ended at the community museum/tourist center, which had historical information and handmade art, tools, and a 100 year old chief’s stool. I made a donation to the community and said thanks to my tour guides who walked me back to the river. We bid farewell and I took the ferry canoe back across.

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Adawu

In late afternoon, Wisdom and I stopped for lunch at a rest stop where I had the best grilled tilapia I’ve ever had in my life. It was accompanied by Jollof rice, a spicy tomato-based West African rice dish, which was equally delicious. After lunch, we headed to Biakpa, in the eastern highlands of the Volta region. The area is mountainous and our drive included some long narrow, winding roads. But the sun was going down as we arrived and I was treated to beautiful panoramic views of the hills and lush vegetation. The next morning, we went to the village of Amedzofe, which is Ghana’s highest settlement at 2500 feet. I took a brief walking tour with Godwin, the resident Rastafarian and budding author. Over the next few days, I visited several more villages, including Tafi Atome (where I visited their monkey sanctuary and fed bananas to the Mona monkeys), Tafi Abuipe (a kente weaving village), and Kpando (a women’s pottery village). Most of the villages had small homes made of termite clay, and lacked electricity or indoor plumbing. There was a big sense of community, however, as most residents seemed to be related or know each other.

Feeding the monkeys at Tafi Atome village Kente weaver at Tafi Abuipe village

Kpando Women’s Pottery village

On the day before I left, I went to the Cape Coast to see the infamous slave castles. I took a tour of the Elmina Castle in Elmina; it was an emotionally overwhelming experience and I was glad to get to my hotel, Biriwa Beach, for some rest. For lunch, I had another Ghanaian dish, groundnut soup with chicken and rice balls. It was delicious and filling. I spent the remainder of the day relaxing and meditating with beautiful ocean views and lush greenery in the background. The next morning, we headed back to Accra. On the way we stopped to visit custom coffin makers and a glass bead factory, where they made beautiful hand-made jewelry. I purchased several pieces for myself and as souvenirs. In Accra, I visited tourist highlights in the city, including the National Museum, the Kwame Nkrumah museum and mausoleum, Ghana Judicial Service and government complex, and the W.E.B. DuBois museum. We also stopped at a sales complex, where I purchased a large mud cloth which decoratively hangs on my hallway wall. It’s a beautiful reminder of my time in Ghana.

Views of the Atlantic coast outside my room

Making glass beads

Glass bead jewelryMaking custom coffins

Car coffin

Sewing machine coffin

I left Ghana glad that I had visited and hopeful that it would one day see the economic success it deserves. There are so many talented, hardworking people that would thrive with just a fraction of the opportunity we have in the USA. Hopefully, more economic development will come in my lifetime.

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How You Can Afford to Travel the World

May 26, 2014 by thetravelsista 4 Comments

As a certified travel junkie, my life would be incomplete if I couldn’t get out and see the world. That’s why I’m on a constant search for travel deals. But so many people think travel is a luxury expense they can’t afford. Nothing could be further from the truth. There are many affordable destinations within the U.S.A. and internationally, and with some strategic planning and budgeting, anyone can travel the world.

1. Make Travel a Priority
We find a way to do things that are important to us. Travel is no exception. By making travel a priority, you’ll eliminate many of the common excuses which prevent you from hitting the road (i.e., travel is too expensive, I don’t know where to go, I don’t have time, etc). The Dalai Lama said it best – “Once a year, go some place you’ve never been before.”

The first step is choosing your travel destination. Tripadvisor.com is an excellent source for researching travel locales. It has a wealth of information about accommodations and things to do, and there are forums where travelers can ask questions, share tips, and give trip reports. Travel blogs are another good source of information; a basic Google search will reveal tons of them. Once you’ve chosen a destination, investigate airfares, lodging, transportation, and other expenses. Total these costs, make a budget, and determine how much you need to save each month to reach your goal. Then create a travel fund and pay yourself first before paying other non-essential expenses. This may require some sacrifice and self-discipline, but it will be worth it in the end.

2. Join a Loyalty Program
Choose a preferred airline, hotel chain or car rental company and use it for most of your personal and business travel. Sign up for frequent flyer or user accounts to accumulate miles or points and to take advantage of loyalty benefits. You can learn more about specific loyalty programs and techniques for accumulating more miles and points on Flyertalk. For example, some utilities and other companies allow you to link your frequent flyer account and earn airline miles based on your monthly spending. It’s like getting bonus miles for money you already were going to spend.

3. Use Credit Cards to earn Airline Miles and other Travel Rewards
Get a credit card (or two) that accrues airline miles, hotel points, or other travel rewards and use it for everything — groceries, utilities, and other daily expenses. The proviso, of course, is don’t spend more than you can afford to pay off each month. Frequent flyer miles and hotel points quickly accumulate and can be used for free airline tickets or hotel stays. I recently flew to South Africa for free using miles accumulated over the course of several years, so it can be done (ticket value was $1,500).

The best credit card deals offer sign-up bonuses of 25,000 miles or more, enough for a free domestic ticket. Good options include: Barclays Arrival World Mastercard, American Express Premier Rewards Gold, Chase Sapphire Preferred, and Capital One Venture Rewards. Some cards offer the added bonus of no foreign transaction fees, which will save you a lot of money on international trips. If you have credit challenges or prefer not to use credit cards, Suntrust Bank offers Delta Airlines-affiliated personal and business debit cards (linked to a checking account) which earn miles for signature-based and PIN purchases. They include a 5,000 mile sign up bonus after your first purchase. However, they also require a minimum balance to avoid monthly service fees, so they may not be a good deal for everyone.

4. Regularly Visit Travel Websites and Be Flexible on Dates and Locales
The internet has made it easy for anyone to research and book personal travel. If you’re flexible on dates and locations, you can find the best deals. Some of my favorite travel sites, like Travelzoo and AirfareWatchdog, post weekly deals and send alerts for special fares; sign up to receive emails. Farecompare shows the top airfare deals from your closest airport. Kayak allows you to view the daily airfares for a destination, so you can select the cheapest days to travel (usually Tuesdays and Wednesdays, but not always). I like Skyscanner for international flights because it shows more domestic and international airlines. For hotel deals, I like Hotwire.com, Hotels.com and Venere.com (but you won’t accrue points for rooms booked on these sites, so you have to balance that against the cost savings).

5. Use Alternative Travel Accommodations
My favorite travel accommodations are vacation rentals. You can find anything from basic rental apartments to luxury homes and vacation villas. In most cases, they’re cheaper than hotels and provide much more space. They have kitchen facilities, which allow you to cook and save on some meal costs, and many have pools and other amenities. They’re great for group or family trips. Unlike hotels, you’ll usually pay a non-refundable cleaning fee and a security deposit, which is fully refundable if there are no damages to the property. The best sites for finding vacation rentals are VRBO, Homeaway, Flipkey, and Airbnb.

Bed and Breakfasts, also known as B & B’s, are private homes or inns with rooms for overnight guests. Run by on-site owners or managers, the accommodations include breakfast in a common dining area. Bathroom facilities can be shared or en suite, depending on the property. This a great option for solo or adventurous travelers. You’ll meet other travelers (often from around the world) and the owner will be a good source of info about the local area and activities.

For budget travelers, hostels are a cheap lodging option. Although they typically cater to students and backpackers, you can also find couples, families and adults looking for a cheap place to stay. Most hostels offer a variety of room types, from dormitory-style with bunk beds and shared bathrooms to single rooms with en suite baths. You can find rooms in worldwide locations on Hostelworld.com.

If you’re on a very tight budget and willing to stay in a stranger’s home, you can find free accommodations in every country on Couchsurfing.com. Couchsurfing is an online community of 7 million members who share their lives and homes for free with people from around the globe. It’s a cultural exchange of sorts, and setting up a profile is free and easy. Active users with referrals from other members will have the most success in finding a host. Even if you don’t use Couchsurfing for lodging, it’s still a good place to connect with and meet new friends in your home city or when you travel. Many cities have weekly language exchanges, parties, dinners and other activities.

Do you have some travel tips not listed here? Please add them below.

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How to Safari in Africa on a Budget

May 15, 2014 by thetravelsista 1 Comment

Like most people, I’d always heard that African safaris were super expensive. I went on my first African safari in October 2013, and while it was one of the best experiences of my life, it was pricey. I stayed at Kirkman’s Kamp, a private lodge situated in the Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve, adjacent to Kruger National Park in South Africa; it included all food, drinks and safari drives and was a total splurge. But several days before, I rented a car and explored the greater Kruger Park area. Doing so, I learned about a variety of South African safari options I didn’t know about before.

Many people self drive and stay at public rest camps inside the park, both to save money and to have a different experience. The rooms aren’t fancy, but frankly you won’t spend a lot time there anyway — the real action is in the bush. The bigger camps have restaurants and supermarkets, so you can eat on-site or bring food along with you on your drives. I recommend using a 2 x 4 or 4 x 4 vehicle, because the higher profile will allow for better wildlife sightings. Some of the camps even offer early morning and night drives conducted by Kruger Park staff in open trucks. It is quite easy to schedule yourself, but it may require more planning since rooms book up well in advance. Visit the SANParks website for information on amenities and facilities at each camp. Another option is to stay in lodging near the park and drive in each day, though that may be more time-consuming. There are several guest houses, hotels and B&Bs in the nearby vicinity. Visit sa-venues.com for more information and pricing.

If you prefer not to self drive, guided day safari drives or budget lodges are other affordable options (the word “budget” is relative, because most are still quite nice). Companies like Nhongo Safaris and Wild Wings Safaris offer guided, open-truck day drives and safari/accommodation packages. Although both offer camp lodging, Wild Wings Safaris also offers several budget lodges with rates as low as $200 USD per person, per night, including safari drives, food, and non-alcoholic drinks; rates may be even lower during low season. Their website is an excellent source of information for researching affordable game lodges and safari options (though you should compare prices with the direct lodge or camp website before booking).

For the more adventurous types, walking safaris or a meal in the bush might be a fun option. Companies like Wild Frontier Adventures offer morning bush walks and night drives with three-course braais (BBQs) in the bush. While the thought of walking through the bush or eating dinner at night surrounded by wild animals may seem scary at first, it really is a magical, once in a lifetime experience you shouldn’t miss. (If it’s any consolation, your expert guide will be trained to deal with wild animal encounters and will also carry a rifle for the rare emergency situation). I look forward to going back on safari now that I know the ropes. With current exchange rates at 1 U.S. Dollar to 10 South African Rand, there’s no better time to go.

Do you have any tips for finding affordable African safaris? Please share below.

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My Top 20 Inspiring Travel Quotes

April 14, 2014 by thetravelsista Leave a Comment

Since I’m the ultimate travel junkie, waiting for my next big trip is always hard. I usually bide the time reading about destinations, looking at beautiful photos, and reading inspiring travel quotes. Here are 20 of my all-time favorites (I even throw in a bonus for good measure). I hope they inspire you to plan that next big trip and see more of the world. Enjoy!

1. “The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.” – St. Augustine

2. “We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.” – Jawaharial Nehru

3. “A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step.” – Lao Tzu

4. “There is no moment of delight in any pilgrimage like the beginning of it.” Charles Dudley Warner

5. “Once a year, go some place you’ve never been before.” Dalai Lama

6. “One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.” – Henry Miller

7. “Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.” – Miriam Beard

8. “Once you have traveled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and over again in the quietest chambers. The mind can never break off from the journey.” – Pat Conroy

9. “Travel has a way of stretching the mind. The stretch comes not from travel’s immediate rewards, the inevitable myriad new sights, smells and sounds, but with experiencing firsthand how others do differently what we believed to be the right and only way.” – Ralph Crawshaw

10. “To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.” – Aldous Huxley

11. “When you travel, remember that a foreign country is not designed to make you comfortable. It is designed to make its own people comfortable.” – Clifton Fadiman

12. “If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home.” – James Michener

13. “Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.” – Scott Cameron

14. “If you wish to travel far and fast, travel light. Take off all your envies, jealousies, unforgiveness, selfishness and fears.” – Cesare Pavese

15. “Perhaps travel cannot prevent bigotry, but by demonstrating that all peoples cry, laugh, eat, worry, and die, it can introduce the idea that if we try and understand each other, we may even become friends.” – Maya Angelou

16. “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime.”– Mark Twain

17. “There is no happiness for the person who does not travel. For Indra is the friend of the traveler, therefore wander!” – Brähmann

18. “One of the great things about travel is that you find out how many good, kind people there are.” — Edith Wharton

19. “We must go beyond textbooks, go out into the bypaths and untrodden depths of the wilderness and travel and explore and tell the world the glories of our journey.” – John Hope Franklin

20. “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” – Mark Twain

BONUS: “No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he comes home and rests his head on his old, familiar pillow.” – Lin Yutang

Which travel quote is your favorite? Why? Leave your comment below

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Ghana’s Elmina Castle

April 6, 2014 by thetravelsista 2 Comments

Elmina Castle was built as a trading post by the Portuguese in 1482. Its lower chambers were originally used to store gold and other commodities before shipment to Europe. Centuries later, it became a hub for the trans-Atlantic slave trade and those same chambers were used to store a more valuable commodity – African slaves. As a black American and descendent of African slaves, I’ve always been curious about my roots and how my ancestors got to America. And so, I decided to end my first trip to the African continent with a tour of the slave castles along Ghana’s former Gold Coast.

View from the Atlantic coastline

As we drove up the Atlantic coast, the large, imposing white castle came into view. The sight of it brought on a feeling of unease. When we finally arrived, I walked around and stood outside for a minute to take it all in. As I was in my moment, several locals walked up to me trying to sell various goods. By the third one, I was quite annoyed and yelled “NO, leave me alone.” I’m not normally that rude, but I was upset by the disturbance of my moment of reflection. It seemed to do the trick and I went back to my moment. Finally, I took a deep breath and walked across the drawbridge to enter the castle. Once inside, I was told there was an entrance fee of $10 USD for foreign adult visitors. I didn’t like it, but I sucked it up and paid the fee. When I learned there was an additional fee of $10 USD to take inside pictures or videos, I declined.

Drawbridge

My visit began at the small museum which detailed the history of the castle and the various colonial powers who controlled it for nearly 500 years. Surprisingly, there wasn’t much information about the capture and sale of African slaves by African traders. Likewise, there was little information about the trans-Atlantic voyage, the people of the African diaspora, and the aftermath of the trans-Atlantic slave trade. These stories are so inextricably connected that it was unfortunate the full narrative was not told.

Next, I went on a guided tour conducted by a local Elmina resident. The tour guide was knowledgeable enough, and as we walked through the fortress he described the inhumane conditions the slaves endured before they made the voyage to the Americas. We started at the women’s dungeon, which at full capacity held up to 400 women for as long as four months while they waited for a ship to arrive. They were fed once a day and sometimes not at all. They were not allowed to bathe and were forced to live in their own urine, blood, and excrement (a faint smell still remains present). Death and disease were common. As I stood inside the room with no windows and minimal ventilation, I visualized all of those women in that hot, cramped, smelly space with barely enough room to sit, let alone lie down. I tried to imagine what they felt and what they were thinking. My emotions finally overtook me and the tears began to fall.

Shackles and branding iron

Just outside the women’s dungeon was a courtyard with a staircase leading to an overhead balcony; this was part of the governor’s chambers. The tour guide explained that the women were paraded out of the dungeon while he looked over the balcony and chose one as his concubine. The chosen woman was cleaned up and fed, then led up the staircase to the governor’s chambers for him to have his way with her. The women were regularly raped by the governor, soldiers and other officials. Those who became pregnant were “lucky”; they were freed and housed in town, and their mixed children were educated. Those who resisted were severely punished; they were chained to a heavy ball in the courtyard and forced to stand all day in the sun with no food or water.

From there we went to the men’s dungeons, which held up to 600 men and were similarly dark, damp and disgusting. The men’s dungeons were closest to the infamous “Door of No Return”, where the slaves were taken to waiting ships. The entrance to that tunnel was so short we had to duck to avoid hitting our heads. I surmised the size was purposeful because this was where the slaves took their last steps on African soil, and where they were most likely to resist. Several visitors had left flower memorials there in their honor.

Next, we went to the upper levels, which contained the kitchen, soldier’s housing, suites for visiting officials, and the governor’s wing. In stark contrast to the dungeons below, the governor’s quarters were spacious and airy with beautiful ocean views. Surprisingly, there was also a church directly above the room of no return. The irony wasn’t lost that these captors worshiped above the space where they held other humans in captivity and broke so many of God’s commandments.

The tour ended at the “condemned cell”, which had a skull and cross bones above the door. This was where male slaves who rebelled or resisted were imprisoned in a windowless, ventless chamber and left to die with no food, water or air. You can still see scratch marks on the wall, signs of their desperate struggle to survive. Outside the cell was a plaque which read: “In Everlasting Memory of the anguish of our ancestors. May those who died rest in peace. May those who return find their roots. May humanity never again perpetrate such injustice against humanity. We, the living, vow to uphold this.” I can only hope that this history never repeats itself.

Partial front view

My visit to Elmina Castle was an incredibly emotional event (which I relived as I wrote this post). I had learned about the horrors of the trans-Atlantic voyage and slavery in America, but never realized how horrendous the experience was before the slaves left the African shore. Reflecting back, it was humbling to realize that I’m descended from some amazingly strong people, and if they could survive through that horrific experience, I can make it through any of my comparatively small troubles. Moreover, it was liberating to be able to go back there to pay homage to the ancestors and show that their captors did not win. It was a life changing experience I’ll never forget.

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Kirkman’s Kamp: My First Safari

March 27, 2014 by thetravelsista Leave a Comment

I ended my trip to South Africa with a safari at Kirkman’s Kamp, an And Beyond property in the private Sabi Sand Game Reserve. We drove there from Nelspruit (about 2 hours away) and arrived around 2:00 p.m. We were welcomed with fresh lemonade and introduced to the staff, including our ranger Brett, who later met with us alone to learn our wishes for safari. This being our first safari, of course we wanted to see the Big 5, especially the big cats. We were not disappointed. We headed out around 4:30 p.m., in an open top Land Rover, for our first evening drive; we saw elephants, a pair of lions mating, and a female leopard with her cub. It only got better from there.

We were up at 5:00 a.m. the next morning (and the three mornings after) for our first of two daily drives. Our tracker Colin (who we nicknamed Eagle Eye) made sure we saw the Big 5 and more. Little did I know that in addition to the wild animals, I’d see African oral traditions and tribal customs at work. Colin saw and heard animals so far away in the bush it was incredible. He could look at footprints in the dirt and tell what type of animal made them, whether they were fresh or old, and what direction they were headed in, thus leading us to a sighting. On several occasions, he went off into a bush alone to look for animals. I was more scared about it than he. Colin was as fascinating to watch as the animals. Even though he has no formal education, he was like a walking encyclopedia – he knows every bird, animal, plant and tree in the bush. This knowledge was passed down thru generations from hunting with his father and grandfather, all members of the Shangaan tribe. Colin’s talent was unbelievable.

Over the course of four days, I saw lions, elephants, rhinos, buffalos, hyena, zebras, giraffes, a variety of rare birds, and many other animals. I even saw dung beetles (which I had never before heard of). We went off-roading on several occasions to get a birds’ eye view of a leopard in the tree with his kill and a pride of lions who had taken down a giraffe. We were literally 10 to 15 feet away. I saw hyenas scavenging on the remains of a fallen rhino, while vultures patiently waited nearby for their turn. And I saw two giraffes fighting each other with vicious torso and head butts (so much for giraffes being peaceful and easygoing animals). It was fascinating to be so close to the animals and observe them in their natural habitat.

But even besides the animal sightings, Kirkman’s Kamp was an all-around great experience. The grounds were beautiful and the communal areas were cozy and comfortable. The family-like atmosphere and camaraderie between guests and staff was awesome. In the evenings, we met up for cocktails and to take score of who had seen the most animals. These discussions were spirited and lively. The food was plentiful and every meal was delicious; there was a variety of wild game, African dishes, and Western food, so there was something for everyone. And to top it all off, we even had our own personal butler, Friday, to cater to us. His big smile and jokes were a welcome bonus each day. The rate included laundry service, which I used on my last day; everything was washed and ironed to a tee (better than I do at home, LOL). The massages and other spa services were extra, but reasonably priced and also excellent. It was nice to be treated like a queen, if only for four days. Kirkman’s Kamp will be a hard act to follow.

I came to the Sabi Sand excited, but a little scared about what I would encounter in the wild. It turned out to be my favorite part of the trip. I never could have imagined I would feel so at peace and comfortable in the bush surrounded by wild animals. I can’t wait to go back!

Click here for more safari photos

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