The post Birthday Reflections: Good Food and Good Times first appeared on The Travel Sista.
]]>I started the year off at Mardi Gras in New Orleans, spending time with family and friends and adding more beads to my already large collection. Every time I go to New Orleans, I always over indulge and this time was no exception. Between the po-boys, beignets and red beans and rice, I got my fill of N’awlins cuisine and gained a pound or two in the process.
Next up was Turks and Caicos islands. I spent five days in Providenciales, where I laid eyes on some of the beautiful turquoise water I’ve ever seen. I was lucky enough to encounter JoJo, Grace Bay’s famous dolphin who’s known for approaching humans. He swam up to our boat as if to say hi, then playfully swam away. While there, I also ate some of my favorite Caribbean food – jerk chicken with rice and peas and grilled snapper.
I ended the year on a whirlwind, with jaunts to London, Barcelona, South Africa, Morocco, Senegal and Ghana. I wasn’t a fan of the food in the UK, but Barcelona made up for it. I had an amazing seafood paella which I watched the chef prepare from beginning to end.
But my favorite culinary delights came from Senegal. On my first day, my hosts treated me to Senegal’s national dish, Thieboudienne (aka thebu jenn), a flavorful dish with fish, rice and vegetables. We washed it down with bissap, a drink made from dried hibiscus leaves. During my time in Senegal, I had other delicious meals like Thebu Yapp (a lamb and rice dish) and Yassa Poulet (chicken with onion sauce). Desserts were also heavenly. As a former French colony, one of the vestiges is great boulangeries and patisseries with croissants and pastries that rival those in Paris. Let’s just say that I had more than my fair share.
Looking back on the past year, I’m amazed at the remarkable experiences I’ve had. I met a lot of new people, made a lot of new friends, and today I received birthday messages from all over the globe. It’s a testament to the power of travel and the gifts you receive if you step outside of your comfort zone. Although these gifts aren’t tangible, I cherish them all the same. I look forward to another year of traveling to far off places, eating new foods, and meeting new friends. My big goal this year is to finally tackle Machu Picchu. Wish me luck.
What do you enjoy most about traveling abroad? Share your comments below.
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]]>The post The Yacht Week: The Good, The Bad and The Ugly first appeared on The Travel Sista.
]]>Since I had to wait six months until we set sail, in advance of the trip I read numerous articles and blog posts to try to learn what to expect. I didn’t see many people of color so I wondered how we’d be received. But I’m always one for an adventure so I wasn’t deterred. Good thing, because it was an incredible experience I’ll never forget. (Click here to read all about my TYW adventure.)
But despite having read everything I could find about The Yacht Week, there were some things I was not prepared for. I share them below in what I call “The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly”. For those like me, who like to know everything good and bad, hopefully this post will give you a full picture of TYW (warning: “The Ugly” is real talk and may be TMI for some people). I mention any complaints in the interest of full disclosure (not to be a whiner) and any views expressed are mine alone.
The Good
Make no doubt about it, The Yacht Week was amazing and at times I felt like I was in a dream. I met diverse people from all over the world, repping their country’s flag and uniting in the pursuit of fun. I spent seven wonderful days sailing on beautiful, calm, blue waters and reveling in Croatia’s beauty. I partied for seven nights on land and at sea with new and old friends. I swam in the sea in a yacht-formed pool and rode a paddle boat inside the famous blue caves. I ate delicious Mediterranean cuisine and deserts (I highly recommend the lamb peka, Croatia’s national dish, and the gelato) and drank a lot of wine, liquor, and rakija (Croatian herbal brandy). Plus, I was treated to the warm hospitality of the Croatian people. The Yacht Week definitely lived up to its tagline “It’s Nothing Like the Real World”.
By the way, although we chose Croatia, there are a variety of locations and yachts at different price points, so just about everyone can find a deal they can afford. Our crew chose a 50-foot yacht (one of the largest boats) and paid approximately $1,300.00 per person, which included the yacht charter cost, yacht equipment, skipper, TYW wristbands, bank fees, taxes, and cleaning fees. We also paid additional costs of about $200.00 per person for port fees, fuel, water, groceries, skipper meals and tips (not including water taxis or restaurant meals, which we separately paid). Yeah, it was pricey, but overall it was a good value.
The Bad
The first “bad” occurred when we arrived at the Kastela marina in Croatia. We’d been told we’d have to sign paperwork during registration on our Saturday arrival day. What we weren’t told was that there would be several 20+ page contracts with waivers requiring you to absolve The Yacht Week, the skipper, and any related parties of nearly all liability. There was no mention of the waivers on the TYW website (at least not at the time of our booking or sailing). On top of that, there was a $2,000.00 deposit, which luckily was payable by cash or credit card. Personally, I think those contracts should be made available for TYW participants to review at the time of the initial reservation, so they can make a fully informed decision whether to participate. Although everything turned out fine, I was quite annoyed at the time because I felt like we were ambushed. The lawyer in me likes to thoroughly review such contracts before I obligate myself.
Another thing I didn’t like was the inconvenience and cost of the water taxis. On several islands we were unable to dock at the marinas and instead anchored at sea, necessitating the use of water taxis to transport us to and fro. Those costs were in addition to the yacht rental fee and quickly added up after several trips. Plus, there were not enough TYW-sanctioned water taxis to transport everyone at the same time and on several occasions we had long waits. It was frustrating because there were other water taxis available but they wouldn’t take us.
One more gripe was with the obvious discontent between the island of Hvar and TYW participants. Unfortunately, because prior Yacht Weekers misbehaved, the reputation of The Yacht Week has been soured in Hvar. Although it was not the case with everyone, several vendors looked at our TYW wristbands and showed obvious disgust at our presence. The bouncer at one nightclub told us “no Yacht Week” and refused us entry. It’s too bad because Hvar is a lovely place and the poor reception soured the experience. Hopefully, this relationship can be mended in the future.
My biggest gripe was with the music; only house/techno/electro music was played at TYW parties. Although I like electro, it got old after several days. With so many diverse countries represented at The Yacht Week, it would have been cool to hear genres from each country — like some reggae from Jamaica, axé from Brazil, and hip hop from the USA (hint, hint, hint).
The Ugly
After several days, the novelty of living on a boat wears off. Forget about long, hot showers; you must get in and out quickly to preserve the limited water in the on-board tanks, and the water may not always be warm. You’ll treasure the few times when we dock at marinas with on-site showers (though you will also wait in line for a real shower). There will be no flushing toilets on board for a week; toilet waste is emptied using a hand or foot pump. Used tissue and feminine products go into a nearby plastic bag for later disposal at dockside (tissue can’t be flushed due to the marine plumbing system). The cramped quarters and small beds will become uncomfortable (even though you won’t be sleeping much), and if your boat doesn’t have A/C, it may get hot below deck during the day.
By now, you get the point. There’s a trade off to living the good life. Make sure you have a cool group of people on board because you’ll be in close quarters for seven days and nights. But being on the water is wonderful and you’ll have so much fun that it will be all worth it. Anchors away!
Have you been on The Yacht Week? What did you like or dislike? Share your comments below.
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]]>I woke up in time to fraternize on the boat and get ready for the private, late afternoon TYW party at Carpe Diem beach. Nestled on a private island, Carpe Diem is a modern outdoor club with cushioned wood beach chairs, parasol umbrellas, and rocky coasts overlooking sparkling blue waters; it is the most beautiful nightclub setting I’ve ever seen. The DJs were cranking out techno music and the drinks were flowing from several bars. People danced and socialized on the island club as the sun set, marking the end of another magical day. As I glanced around at panoramic views at every turn, it almost felt unreal.
The Carpe Diem party ended around 8:00 p.m. and we returned to Palmizana by water taxi. Our skipper Sanjin, another male roomie, and I ate dinner with two American girls we met on the walk to the restaurant. We had a great conversation about places we’ve visited and our time at The Yacht Week (The talks confirmed that we had the best skipper; more on that later).
Thursday was another relaxing day on Palmizana. After a late breakfast, we hung out on the beach with other Yacht Weekers and tourists. It was a hot day and the cool water was refreshing. Later that afternoon, we took a water taxi to Hvar to attend yet another TYW day party. As we made our approach upon Hvar, it was clear this island was swankier than others we’d visited. There were luxury hillside homes, fancy fortresses, and huge yachts docked along the marina.
Hvar marina
We also saw the wild TYW day party happening right there on the waterfront at Carpe Diem bar (a different club owned by the same owners as Carpe Diem beach). The party was standing room only, with lots of dancing, drinking and other shenanigans; it continued on for several hours.
After the party ended, a large group of us wandered the town in search of food and libations. We wanted something quick and ended up at Hello 2, a walk-up burger bar with outdoor seating. I had a grilled chicken breast sandwich with fries and beer, all of which was tasty and fresh. We left there and strolled the pier before ending up at the Nautica Bar. It was empty when we arrived, but our group got the party started and it quickly filled up. The DJ spinned hip hop, rock, and old school classics and everybody was dancing, singing and having a blast. We later returned to Palmizana by water taxi and continued the party on our boat.
Friday was Regatta Day. Everyone dresses up in costumes and the yachts race back to Split. The first to make it back wins the regatta. The team with the best costumes also wins a prize. Unlike the rest of the week, to join the competition you must actually sail rather than use the motor. As we learned, sailing is hard work.
We woke up early that morning and dressed up in our sexy lifeguard costumes. We were tired but determined to make a good showing in the regatta. Sanjin wasn’t particularly happy about sailing that day, but he was a good sport and obliged us. We started off well in the top 5 yachts, enjoying the sea views while getting our first glance at the other team costumes. Unfortunately, our good luck didn’t last long. About an hour in, as we were adjusting the sail, one of the ropes got stuck and the wind blew us off course. By the time we finally freed the rope and got back on track, nearly 20 boats had passed us and we lost our good standing. As it became more and more clear that we would not catch up, we decided to drop out of the race. Sanjin cranked on the motor and we cruised for the rest of our last day on the water.
We made it back to the Split marina by early evening, just as the sun was starting to go down. It was a beautiful end to a fun and hectic week. The TYW Closing Party was later that night and the winners were announced, but our team was too exhausted to go. Suffice it to say that a full week of partying and sleep deprivation had finally taken its toll.
I woke up early on Saturday morning for my 8:00 a.m. flight. To my surprise, Sanjin also got up to bid me farewell (then went back to bed, lol). A native Croatian, Sanjin was skilled, knowledgeable and fun, and we were blessed to get him as our skipper. We had a blast and he made The Yacht Week even more enjoyable for us. As I flew back to Rome on my way to the USA, I relived the week in my head and was happy I’d decided to expand my horizons. Although it had not been on my radar, Croatia was amazing and The Yacht Week opened my eyes to its natural beauty, its historical treasures, and its huge boating culture. I can’t wait to go back to see more. If you haven’t yet been, I’d definitely recommend a visit to Croatia.
Have you been to Croatia? What did you like or dislike about it? Please share your comments below.
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]]>Our skipper, Sanjin
Around 5:00 p.m., we finally boarded the Perna. No sooner had we loaded on our luggage and groceries and raised our American flag, sure enough the skies opened up and it stormed like cats and dogs. We had to rush to close all the windows on the boat (which quickly became hot and stuffy) and wait for the storm to pass. To bide the time, we played cards, drank shots, and got to know Sanjin (who we nicknamed 007, both for his blue eyes like Daniel Craig and his ability to stealthy disappear unnoticed). The rain stopped about an hour later and we finally set sail around 7:00p.m. We sailed for a little more than two hours (one of which was in the dark) before arriving in Trogir, where we docked for the night. By then we were starving and ready for a real meal. We went to dinner at a restaurant on the marina that looked out onto the water. I ate a “shrimp” dish with rice and red sauce. Although they referred to these crustaceans as shrimp, thanks to my New Orleans roots I know them as crawfish. Either way, they were tasty. After dinner, we split up. Some went to the TYW Welcome Party. Others walked around town to see the historic buildings and search for gelato. I was in the latter group and it was a good end to a long day.
Me enjoying the views
On Sunday morning, we woke up to bright, sunny skies and were amazed by the beautiful blue waters and mountains at every turn. We sailed for several hours before arriving in Vis in late afternoon. We anchored at sea and started the party early. As is the TYW custom, we climbed from boat to boat to meet fellow Yacht Weekers, while others did the same. Along the way we shared shots, laughs, and a dance or too. One of the coolest aspects of TYW was seeing the diverse country flags flying on every boat. If you were smart enough, you could tell the nationality of everyone on each boat by looking at their flags. If not, it was one of your first questions. We met people from all over the globe, including Jamaica, Australia, Germany, and Ghana, among others. Later, that evening we took water taxis to the Vis marina. At Sanjin’s suggestion, we had dinner at Bocadero, a fancy restaurant in Vis. We were joined by two Australians (Aaron and Tim) from the boat next to us. We had a blast, eating good food, drinking red wine, and laughing and joking for several hours. I had the sea bass cooked in parchment paper with vegetables and olives; it was fresh and delish! After dinner, we went to the TYW White Party at the St. George Fort. The place was packed and the techno music was cranking all night. We partied for several hours before turning in for the evening. We spent the night anchored at sea in Vis.
TYW White Party
On Monday morning, we got up, ate breakfast at Dionis, and bought more food and supplies for the boat. We left Vis around 1:00 p.m. and set sail for the Green Caves. It was too windy to get close, so we briefly looked at the emerald green waters then headed on towards Komiza. We sailed for several hours and arrived in early evening, anchoring at sea just off the marina. Komiza had a lively marina, full of people and restaurants, pizzerias, gelato stands and vendors selling jewelry and souvenirs.
But while other tourists and Yacht Weekers were eating on the waterfront, we were lucky enough to have dinner at a neighborhood restaurant where Sanjin had made reservations for us and pre-ordered Croatia’s national dish, Peka. After a 20 minute ride up the mountain, we finally arrived at restaurant Glob and were warmly welcomed by the family owners. We started off with appetizers of tuna prosciutto, cheese, olives, tomatoes, and a house red wine. Everything was fresh and yummy. About an hour later, the Peka finally arrived at the table. Peka is made with octopus or lamb (we chose the lamb) and cooked in a special clay pot with vegetables, fresh herbs and spices for four hours. All I can say is OMG, it was delicious! The meat was so tender and everything was so perfectly seasoned that it melted in your mouth. It was a pricey meal, but worth every cent. We were quite full after dinner, but we headed to another TYW party.
Lamb peka
We left Komiza on Tuesday morning and sailed to the Blue Caves. We rowed a paddle boat from our yacht to the caves. Initially it was dark, but once we got further inside, a hole in the side of the cave allowed in a ray of sunlight. The water was a sparkling blue hue, which almost appeared fluorescent – it was stunning. Unfortunately, I forgot to bring my camera and missed the shot. We left the caves and sailed for several hours before meeting up with the rest of the Yacht Weekers in the middle of the sea. All of the yachts anchored in a circle formation to create a swimming pool. We swam and relaxed on floats, having a big party at sea until late afternoon. Later that evening, we lined the boats horizontally and spent the night out at sea moored to some large rocks. Everyone partied on their yachts, blasting music while singing, and dancing. All through the night, people climbed from boat to boat, greeting the occupants, and often sharing a drink or two. It was a noisy, fun and late evening.
“Swimming pool” at sea
Up next, Part 2 . . . . when we arrive at Hvar, the St. Tropez of Croatia
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]]>I woke up the next day still thinking about that pizza, so I went back to Pizzeria da Franco for a late breakfast/early lunch. I was the first one there, but as it got later more people showed up; clearly it was popular with the locals. I enjoyed looking at the display of homemade breads and cheeses, as well as fresh meats and olives. I was even more impressed with the place when I saw a waitress give two free pizza slices to a homeless man who came asking for food (I can’t think of the last time I’ve seen that at home). After I finished my meal (yes, it was just as good as the first time), I headed to the nearby bus station and bought a ticket for the SITA bus to the Amalfi Coast. At €6.80 for a round trip ride, the ticket was a great deal. The SITA bus wasn’t like a regional bus in the USA, but more like a tour bus with clean interiors and comfy fabric seats. During the 1.5 hour ride, we traversed the narrow mountain road through Praiano, Positano, and Amalfi and were treated to amazing cliff side views of the coast and Mt. Vesuvius. I got off in Amalfi to do some sightseeing and enjoy some Italian treats.
My first stop was a street vendor selling lemon granitas, a frozen dessert that’s like a cross between sorbet and snow cones. Made with local Amalfi lemons, it was cold, fresh and tasty, the perfect treat for a hot, sunny summer day. The vendor, Andrea, struck up a conversation with me and even offered (flirtatiously) to give me a ride back to Sorrento on his scooter. I graciously declined and went on my way to explore the city. I walked down to the beach which was packed with people sunbathing and relaxing under brightly colored umbrellas. After a quick walk in the sand, I headed back up to explore the stores and souvenirs shops; I viewed a variety of clothes, ceramics, lace, and of course, lemon-related items and bought a few souvenirs. Along the way, I stopped for a tiramisu gelato on a cone. Needless to say, this wasn’t a time of dieting for me.
Amalfi was beautiful with many hillside buildings overlooking the coast. It was vibrant with many small boats and ferries docked at the shore and tons of people walking the streets. After several hours, I was ready to return to Sorrento. However, getting back there was an adventure. It seemed as though all the bus drivers were simultaneously on break, and thus most of the buses were parked as hundreds of people waited for the northbound ride. Finally, after nearly 30 minutes a northbound bus arrived. Unfortunately, it was already packed with people and I had to stand for most of the trip. I was jerked and prodded for nearly an hour as people entered and exited the bus. I was excited (and so were my feet) when I got a seat for the last 30 minutes of the ride. Back in Sorrento, I window shopped along the main street, Corso Italia, before heading back to the apartment for the evening.
On my second full day, I had intended to visit Capri and Positano but the weather had other plans. I woke up to a rain storm that lasted for most of the day. I was stuck inside until about 2 pm, when the hard rain finally petered out. The clouds suggested the rain would return, but I took advantage of the break to explore the city. I headed out to Piazza Tasso in downtown Sorrento, stopping for a late lunch. I took a break from pizza and pasta and ate roasted chicken and vegetables instead. After lunch, I walked through downtown exploring the local stores, souvenir shops and a historic church. I was out for several hours before I started to feel light rain drops. I decided to make my way back to the apartment, and sure enough, not long after I got back the heavy rain returned. I guess the rain gods were looking out for me.
The next day, my last in Southern Italy, I took the Cirumvesuviana train back towards Naples. The train was an adventure in itself. It was packed with people (mostly tourists) and musicians walked though the train playing music and seeking tips from riders. After about 45 minutes, we arrived at the Ercolano Scavi station which is the stop for Herculaneum. While most have heard about Pompeii, which was destroyed by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 A.D., few know about the nearby town of Herculaneum (Ercolano in Italian) which was also destroyed. I’d read that the Herculaneum site was smaller and better preserved than Pompeii, so with my limited time I chose to visit there. At the entrance, an Italian guy named Luciano offered guided tours for 10 euros per person. I joined his group and soon we were off for the tour. Luciano shared historical information and offered insight into various buildings we viewed. I was glad I’d taken the tour because there was limited signage and his explanations helped me visualize things as they were many years ago. After the 1.5 hour tour, Luciano and I took a photo together and bid each other farewell. I strolled around the site for another 30 minutes before heading back to the train station for my return to Rome. I flew back home the following morning leaving a little bit of my heart in Italia.
What is your favorite thing to do in Southern Italy? Share your comments below.
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]]>Piazza Cavour
I was tired after my 9.5 hour flight and in desperate need of a nap. I slept for about 4 hours, then freshened up with a hot shower. After checking my social media, finally I headed out for a walk around the neighborhood. I eventually ended up at Piazza Cavour (Cavour Square), which was like an urban park with grass, palm trees and benches. While I was sitting, a friendly older Italian man sat next to me and struck up a conversation. It didn’t go very far since I don’t speak Italian and he didn’t speak English. But I was at least able to share that I was from the USA and it was my first time visiting Italy. Later that night, I had my first Italian dinner at Trattoria Memmo (olive bruschetta, mista salad and penne arrabiata) – it was delicious.
Fountain at Piazza Navona
The next morning, I got up and had breakfast at a nearby coffee shop, then headed off for some sightseeing. I started again at Piazza Cavour, which became my favorite place to sit, relax, and revel in my surroundings (often with gelato in hand). Piazza Cavour overlooks the enormous Palace of Justice which spans the length of the square. Although many Italians refer to it as Il Palazzaccio, “the ugly palace”, it was anything but ugly to me. The large size, bronze quadriga, and the ornate columns and statutes speak to the opulence that was a sign of the time it was built. I next walked to see the nearby Castel Sant’ Angelo, then crossed the river and headed to Piazza Navona, a popular tourist hangout with a trio of fountains and a variety of street performers, painters, and vendors. I took pictures and people-watched for a while, stopping for some lemon gelato along the way. Next, I headed to Campo dei Fiori, a large open air market. Vendors sold a variety of fresh fruit, vegetables, pasta, and flowers, and it was interesting to watch Italians go about their daily business. Numerous restaurants, bars and pubs also surrounded the square making it a meeting point for both locals and tourists. I stopped for a lunch of pizza, salad and wine. Later, I went on to see the Pantheon, the Italian Parliament building, and a host of other beautiful historic buildings.
I got off to a late start on Wednesday, so I took a taxi to the Vatican near St. Peter’s Basilica. I’d been forewarned, but little could have prepared me for the organized chaos that is Vatican City. As we drove up, I was amazed by the gargantuan complex and the huge crowds outside. I snapped some photos then walked around trying to get my bearings. I had a 1:00 p.m. reservation at the Vatican Museum so I decided to pass on the long line to enter the Basilica. It took me about 20 minutes to walk from the Basilica to the Museum (yes, the Vatican grounds are that large), and as I got close I noticed another extremely long line. A sense of dread overtook me, but my fears were quickly allayed when I saw the line was for people without tickets. I was a bit early, but since I had a reservation I breezed through the next line and went right into the building. Once I looked at the site map and saw the vast offerings, it was clear that I’d be there for a while (and still probably would not see everything). I was hungry by then, so I went downstairs to the cafe for pizza and tiramisu, both of which were surprisingly good. After lunch, I headed back upstairs to start my audio tour. The museum’s art collection was amazing, outdone only by the ornate and elaborately decorated ceilings, walls and floors. After passing thru a seemingly unending maze of art and artifacts, and being tussled and elbowed by crowds of people, I finally made it to the Sistine Chapel. The ceiling frescoes painted by Michangelo were amazingly detailed and beautiful. But the crowds were so massive (and confining) that I only stayed a short while before heading outside to the gardens. It was a gorgeous, sunny day and I spent a good hour enjoying the courtyard fountain and relaxing my tired feet. I finally left at 6:00 p.m., as the museum was closing.
Vatican Museum and Gardens
My friend Sylvia joined me in Italy on Thursday. We walked around the city, aimlessly roaming and taking in the sights. We ended up in Trastavere, which turned out to be my favorite neighborhood. It was bustling with locals, so it gave us a chance to really see the everyday life of Italians. People congregated in the piazzas, enjoying time with family and friends and watching the various street performers. There were numerous stores, restaurants, pubs, and gelato shops right within the community. We strolled through the streets, window shopping and eating gelato (strawberry and kiwi for me) and other sweets. We saw beautiful hand-crafted leather purses, shoes, and jewelry. After a couple hours, we stumbled upon Cave Canem Trattoria, where we stopped for dinner. We had a salad and delicious salmon and shrimp pizza, accompanied by wine, of course. During dinner, we were serenaded by musicians and entertained by a magician. The culture was fascinating – people went for dinner after 8:00 p.m. and even after 10:00 p.m. families were still out with the kids. You’d never know it was a week night.
On Friday, we took the metro to the Colosseum. As soon as we exited the metro station, we could see the hulking monument right in front of us. Luckily, the lines weren’t long and we entered rather quickly. It was incredible to see this thousands-year-old building still standing strong. Most of it is surprisingly well preserved, despite its storied history. Next, we headed over to Palatine Hill and the Forum. We snapped a few pics, then took the metro over to the Spanish Steps which was packed with people. It was clear we were in the “high rent district”, as we saw all the high end stores like Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Prada. We strolled the area, then stopped for drinks of limoncello and people watching. Later, we had dinner and drank wine at Numbs before heading in early to get ready for our morning flight to Croatia.
I had an enjoyable and relaxing week in Rome. My favorite thing about Rome was the laid-back lifestyle and the many piazzas and restaurants where you can drink wine, eat gelato, and take in the beautiful views. What do you like about Rome? Share your comments below.
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]]>Day 1
After 13 hours of travel, we arrived in Paris on Saturday morning. We got through customs fairly quickly and hailed a taxi for our trip to the city. We arrived at the apartment about 30 minutes later and were pleased with its size and décor. After looking around the place and freshening up, we left to find some breakfast. We found a café a few blocks away and there I was introduced to my first “cup” of French coffee. I was a bit surprised by the teacup size and drank it in about 3 gulps. I had a light meal of French bread and butter, which was fresh and enjoyable. After breakfast, we walked around the neighborhood to get a sense of our surroundings. We tried to stay up, but grew more and more tired, and eventually returned to the apartment for a nap. We woke up 4 hours later feeling refreshed and ready to take in the sights. We headed out to Rue de Rivoli for some shopping and sightseeing. I enjoyed all the small, independent shops and it made me sad for what shopping has become in the United States (big box store heaven). We had dinner at a Thai restaurant and our first glass of wine – a rosé — both of which were delicious.
Day 2
On Sunday morning, we decided to go the Lavage de Madeleine, an annual Brazilian parade held in September, which courses though the main streets of the city. There were drummers, dancers and musicians leading the way to the Church of Madeleine for the traditional foot washing on the church steps. We had a great time and it was a welcome introduction to Paris’ diversity. After the parade, we ate lunch and then hopped on the Metro for the 35-minute ride to the Chateau de Versailles. We planned a late afternoon trip hoping for smaller crowds, but we learned that when it comes to Versailles, there’s nothing small about the crowds or the grounds. Pictures don’t do it justice, and its size and opulence is unbelievable. Versailles is an amazing site and a must do, in my opinion. Just be prepared for long lines, lots of tour groups, rude people, and sore feet. Unless you have the stamina of the Energizer bunny, this should probably be a two-day trip – one day for the main chateau and gardens and a second day for the outlying palaces and gardens. We only made it to the main chateau and some of the gardens, and we were exhausted at the end of our visit. We headed back to the apartment for some rest, and then had dinner at a nearby restaurant, Le Petit Italien. We also had more wine – red this time.
Day 3
After two days of constant activity and little sleep, jet lag got the best of us on Day 3. We forgot to set the alarm and slept until 2:00pm. Even though we got off to a late start, we still had a full day of activity. On the way to the Metro, we stopped at the nearby Artisan Boulange for croissants. They were so tasty that this would become a daily morning ritual for me. We took the Metro to the 4th arrondissement, walked to the Bastille for photos, then planned to head to Notre Dame. After about 15 minutes, we discovered we were walking in the wrong direction and turned around. Fortunately, we stumbled upon Au Grand Turenne, a cute café in the 3rd, and stopped for a late lunch. Our waitress, the food and the wine were great, and this turned out to be one of our best lunches. After getting back on track, we made it to Notre Dame in time for the 6:15 pm mass. Although my command of French was not good enough to understand the whole mass, it was interesting to watch. I was surprised that tourists were allowed to walk through the church and take photos during mass. After we left Notre Dame, we took photos of the nearby Palais du Justice, then walked over to St Germain des Pres (6th arrondissement). We explored the area, did some window shopping, then stopped at a café to drink wine and live like Parisians. The area was very vibrant, with lots of people walking, shopping and patronizing the cafes. We spent a few hours drinking wine and taking it all in.
Day 4
Our first stop was the Arc de Triomphe. We took photos, and then walked up and down the Champs Elysees and surrounding area. The area was teaming with lots of people and high end shops (think Gucci and Louis Vuitton), which made for good window shopping and people watching. We ate lunch at Pizza Vesuvio and had a great smoked salmon pizza, with red wine. Their waiters have been described as bossy, but we had a fun time joking around with ours – who spoke French, Italian and English. We took a photo with him before we left, then hopped on the metro and headed back to the 3rd. On the way to the apartment, we stopped at Amorino for gelato (I had lemon and my sister had mango), which was fresh and yummy.
Day 5
This was an extra busy day. We started off in the morning at the Luxembourg Gardens, which were beautiful. It was a great place to relax and “smell the roses” before the hustle and bustle of the rest of our day. Since we were close, we walked over to the Pantheon and the Sorbonne University for photos. We then walked around the Latin Quarter a bit, and took the Metro to the Eiffel Tower, where my sister had a 4:00 pm reservation to ride to the top. While she traveled up, I stayed below and took photos of the Eiffel Tower and the River Seine (I’m afraid of heights and was not in the mood to conquer my fear that day). Unfortunately, 20 minutes after we arrived, the skies opened up and it poured down raining for about 45 minutes. My sister was bummed that the weather was crappy by the time she made it up, but said the views were still amazing.
Next, we took the Metro to the Louvre. I’d seen the Louvre on television, but you really can’t grasp its sheer size and magnitude until you see it in person. You could easily spend a week there alone! We arrived around 7:00pm and planned to stay until close (it’s open late, until 9:45pm, on Wednesday and Friday). We entered through the Carrousel at the Metro stop, bought tickets from the ticket machine, and walked right in – no wait at all. We started in the Greek art section and eventually made our way to see Venus de Milo. There were only about 10 people in the room, so we walked right up to see and take photos. I love Egyptian art, so we went there next. The collection spans several floors and is incredible. Next, we headed to the highlight of the Louvre – the Mona Lisa. Once again, we walked right into the gallery, where there were about 15 other people. I couldn’t believe I was actually standing in front of the famous art piece I’d read about since a young kid. It took me a minute to digest it. We ended our visit with the newest exhibit, the Art of Islam, which had just opened one week before. The exhibit had some amazing ancient pieces. The good thing about visiting the Louvre at night is the lack of heavy crowds. Also, upon exiting the pyramid and the fountain were lit up, and it was really magical. I’d definitely recommend a night visit to Louvre.
Day 6
We were sore and tired after five busy days of non-stop walking, so we decided to make today a chilled day. We took the Metro to the 1st arrondissement and eventually stopped at a little cafe where we ate outside, drank wine, and people-watched for several hours (you’ve got to love those long Parisian meals). Later, we went to a wine tasting class at O’Chateau Wine Tasting. This turned out to be a highlight of our trip. Our sommelier, Charlotte, was very personable and knowledgeable (having trained in Napa Valley, New Zealand and France) and she spoke perfect English. She schooled us on French wine labeling (by region instead of wine type), as well as the types of grapes grown and wines produced in different regions of France. We sampled a champagne, 2 whites and 3 red wines as we learned. It was a great experience and after 6 glasses we were feeling “nice” when we left. If you enjoy wine and want to learn more about French wines in particular, I highly recommend it (though I’d say go on your first or second day for maximum benefit).
Day 7
We had planned to go to Sacre Coeur today, but my feet were still too sore to climb all of those steps. So instead, we decided to go shopping. First, we went to Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche (7th arrondissement), one of the world’s first department stores. This place clearly caters to a high end crowd (think LV, Gucci, Hermes), so it was window shopping for us. The store spans several levels and is beautiful. Next, we walked over to St Germain des Pres where we ate lunch and drank wine, then went back to shopping. We bought leather purses, chocolate, souvenirs and wine. As the day progressed, I found myself getting sad knowing this was my last full day in Paris. Back at the apartment, we rested and made dinner plans. We had been wanting coq au vin and finally found it at A la Biche au Bois, a restaurant specializing in wild game (12th arrondissement). We had a 9:00 pm reservation and when we got there, they remembered us as “the girls who want coq au vin.” The restaurant was full of Parisians so we figured that was a good sign. We were right – the food was delicious. It was a bit off the beaten path, but worth the extra walk from the Metro. After dinner, we took the Metro back to the 1st arrondissement and went to Le Majesty Bar. We had a fun time hanging out with some Parisians and international members of the Polyglot Club (they have a weekly French-English exchange there). We left around 1:00 am, in time to catch the Metro before service stopped for the night.
Day 8
This was our departure day. We had an 11:00 am taxi pickup for the airport, so I headed out early for my last trip to the Artisan Boulange. When I got there, however, I was disappointed to see it was closed. I walked around in search of another, and after three blocks, came upon the 28 Boulangerie. I walked in and entered into a visual delight; their display of pastries and desserts looked so scrumptious I hated I hadn’t visited sooner. Since it was my last day in Paris, I bought two croissants. This turned out to be smart, because they were even better than the ones at the Artisan. While walking back to the apartment eating my croissants, I reveled in the surroundings already trying to figure out when I’d be back. Now I understand why everyone falls in love with Paris.
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The post Paris in the Fall . . . Ooh La La! first appeared on The Travel Sista.
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