My tour was conducted by the managing director, Andrew Herweg, who was very knowledgeable and enthusiastic about the operation. He started with an overview of the distillery’s founding and guiding principles, then explained the machinery, the distillation process, and the current and future planned products.

I was especially impressed with their social impact and eco-friendly focus. From start to finish, they mesh their business operation with green principles and community engagement. They use harvested rainwater which undergoes a 15-stage filtration process. Their sugar cane is sourced from a local village, supporting nearby micro and small businesses. The by-products created during the distillation process are supplied to the Rwandan government and local communities to make mosquito repellent, fertilizer and other farming products. And the food served in their Bistro is sourced from local farmers.

After the tour, it was time to taste the final product. I tasted each of their five triple distilled liquors: London Dry Gin, Vodka, Coffee Liquor, 3-year aged Malt Whiskey, and Light Spiced Rum. Not surprisingly, my favorite was the Coffee Liquor, which was smooth with the perfect mix of coffee and rum (I’m typically not a whiskey drinker, but surprisingly it was my second favorite). Coffee is a major crop in Rwanda, so of course, their coffee beans are sourced from a local women’s coffee cooperative.

After the tasting, I ate lunch at the Bistro – chicken tacos served with salad and fries and one of their signature drinks, the Singapore Sling made with 1000 Hills Dry Gin. Everything was fresh and tasty. The food menu is limited but there are several taco, satay and steak options. Though I didn’t try it, I’m told their signature steak, cooked on a hot rock, is one of Kigali’s most popular dishes. The drink menu is more extensive, with 16 signature cocktails all made with their liquors.

With stunning views, delicious cocktails, tasty meals and a socially conscious ethos, this place is not to be missed on a visit to Rwanda. To learn more about 1000 Hills, visit them on Facebook or Instagram. Tours and tastings can be booked online at the 1000 Hills website. They also sell their liquors, merchandise, and liquor-infused coffee beans on their website.

** I received a free tour and tasting in exchange for this review. All opinions are honest and my own.

The post Kigali, Rwanda: 1000 Hills Liquor Distillery & Bistro first appeared on The Travel Sista.

Here we are — December 31, 2018. My how this year has flown by. I can’t believe that 2018 is about to come to a close. As typically happens at this time of the year, many of my Facebook friends are posting 2018 reflections and 2019 goals. One of my friends did something different — he posted a listed of all the airports he traveled through in 2018. Of course, that prompted me to do the same (and made it easy for me to reflect on my year in travel).

My 2018 Airports

JNB – MPM – VNX – DAR – ZNZ – JFK – FLL – CTG – MSY – PHX – DTW

I brought in 2018 in the same place I will bring in 2019 – Johannesburg, South Africa – which is easily one of my favorite places on the planet. The creative vibe and energy here just can’t be beat. I’m a January birthday baby and if you didn’t know, I celebrate all month. I also love beaches, so of course, the celebration involved multiple beaches. My birthday celebration started off in Maputo, Mozambique. I checked into my guest house, dropped off my bags, and met up for dinner with some friends from one of my travel groups. We ended up at a house party with some new Mozambican and Angolan friends and had the time of our lives. As they say, what happens in Maputo, stays in Maputo.

Beach cottage in Vilanculos

Beach views in Vilanculos

Next, up was Vilanculos and the Bazaruto Archipelago. Vilanculos is a coastal town in southern Mozambique, known for its beautiful beaches, water sports, and snorkeling/diving opportunities. Vilanculos is also the gateway to the Bazaruto Archipelago, a chain of six islands off the Mozambican coast. The beaches and snorkeling there were superb.

I finished off my month-long solo birthday celebration in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania and my dream location, Zanzibar. I spent my actual birthday, January 16^th, on a secluded beach in Paje. That evening, I met my tour guides for dinner at the Rock restaurant, which is famous because it sits in the middle of the Indian Ocean. It was high tide when we arrived and we had to take a small boat to get to the restaurant. It was low tide by the time we left and we were able to walk back to the beach. Talk about a cool experience! I returned home at the end of January and settled back into the real life. (sigh)

The Rock Restaurant, Zanzibar

Beach views from my hotel pool

After a 2.5-month travel break, next up was Louisiana for the New Orleans Jazz Festival. I’m always happy to visit family and eat too much good food there. But, the highlight was my Detroit home girl, Anita Baker, who closed out the show. She put on a great performance.

For Memorial Day, I went to Fort Lauderdale which was completely rained out. Luckily, I was only there for two days before moving on to Cartagena, Colombia.  Colombia was a new country for me, not on my bucket list, but one which I thoroughly enjoyed. The first highlight was my visit to Palenque, the first free town in the Americas founded by escaped slaves. Located about 45 minutes from Cartagena, in the foothills of the Sierra Maria mountains, today Palenque is inhabited by the descendants of those slaves, who are proud of their heritage and retain many African customs. Their very existence is a testimony to the human spirit and resilience in the toughest of situations. The second highlight was Tayrona National Park and Cabo San Juan beach. It took six hours to get there, including three buses, a horseback ride through the jungle and short trek, but boy was it worth it. I spent a relaxing day on the beach and the lunch of fried fish, plantains, and coconut rice was the icing on the cake.

Entrance to Palenque

Dancers and musicians in Palenque

Cabo San Juan Beach, Tayrona National Park

Over the summer, I returned to two states where I formerly resided: Arizona and my birth home of Michigan. In Phoenix, I was honored to see a family friend consecrated as Bishop and I visited with friends I hadn’t seen in a few years. Of course, I couldn’t leave Arizona without visiting Sedona, one of my favorite places in the state. The beauty and serenity there is unmatched. In Michigan, I celebrated the 20-year judicial anniversary of a judge I previously worked for. It was great to see former colleagues and friends.

Sedona, AZ

I’m ending the year back where I started – South Africa. This country has become my second home and I miss it every time I leave. But I’ve decided to do some venturing out in 2019, to explore other countries and finally make it Machu Picchu. I may see less of SA in 2019, but my heart will still be there.

Wishing you a Happy New Year and more travel adventures in 2019. Cheers!

The post My 2018 Year in Review first appeared on The Travel Sista.

I celebrated a birthday yesterday and arrived at my dream destination – Zanzibar! As I begin another year on the planet, I thought it was a good time to re-visit my progress on my bucket list over the past year. I’m pleased to say I knocked off four more items on the list.

I finally took a DNA test to determine my genetic ancestry. In many ways it confirmed what I already knew (considering the slave history of America)  – I’m mixed with primarily West African and some European ancestry. But I was pleased to learn I’m 72% African, with traces of DNA from Cameroon, Congo, Benin, Togo, Ghana, Ivory Coast, Nigeria and Senegal. Needless to say some of these places have moved up the ladder on my list of places to visit.

I spent 3 months in southern Africa (over their winter no less) to see how I would adjust to living abroad. I temporarily rented an apartment in Johannesburg and lived like a local. It was an amazing experience and concluded that I would adjust just fine.  

I traveled to my 10^th African country, Mozambique. This hidden gem, with a long coastline along the Indian Ocean and spectacular beaches and islands, has become one of my favorite countries on the continent.

Lastly, I had my first Travel Blogger of the Month feature article in Griots Republic, where I discussed eco-tourism in Africa and introduced my new travel-related business, the Travel Africa Movement (TAM). TAM was born out of my desire to encourage more people to visit Africa and experience the sights, sounds and wonders I have on that beautiful, but often-maligned continent. I have both a Facebook group where members share travel deals, information and resources about travel to Africa, as well as a website where I offer packaged group trips and tee shirts. I’d love for you to join me on an African adventure.

I’m looking forward to another year of travel and cranking away at new places and things on the bucket list. I already have Malaysia and Thailand in the works, and I’m hoping to finally visit Machu Picchu later this year. But for now, I have to go. I’m headed to the beach.

The post Birthday Musings and Bucket List Progress first appeared on The Travel Sista.

Mozambique is a country in southeast Africa, bordered by Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Swaziland and South Africa. Its capital and largest city is Maputo, which is inhabited by nearly 1.2 million people. Like nearly all African countries, Mozambique is a former European colony, which gained independence from Portugal in 1975 after nearly 500 years of colonization. Sadly, its tourism industry sharply declined after independence. It’s unfortunate because the country’s natural beauty, beaches, national parks, wildlife reserves, and cultural heritage provide excellent eco-tourism opportunities.

Mozambique enjoys a lengthy coastline fronting the Indian Ocean and it boasts some of southern Africa’s best beaches, renowned for their coral reefs and great surfing, diving and snorkeling opportunities. It also has some of the freshest seafood, which is abundant and cheap. Though not as popular as neighboring South Africa, more tourists are being lured to see what this Lusophone country has to offer. Here are my top 10 Things to Do in Maputo and beyond:

1. Visit the FEIMA Arts and Crafts Market. If you’re looking for souvenirs, African art or just somewhere to chill for a few hours, FEIMA is your place. This outdoor market is located inside a relaxing urban park with an abundance of shade trees and tropical plants. Artisans sell batiks, paintings, fabric purses, clothing, shoes, wood carvings and more. There are also two outdoor restaurants on site which serve both western cuisine and traditional Mozambican dishes.
2. Be inspired by local art and culture. Núcleo de Arte is an art cooperative, home to more than 100 sculptors, painters, and other artists. During daytime hours, you can meet the artists and watch them at work next door at Cafe Camissa. There are frequent exhibitions and many display pieces are for sale, so bring cash with you. Fundação Fernando Leite Couto, is a cultural center which promotes the country’s art, culture and literature. It’s often the site of live concerts, readings and art exhibitions. Centro Cultural Franco-Mocambicano (CCFM) is another cultural center which has frequent music and dance performances. Check their respective websites for event schedules.
3. Shop at the Mercado Central. This market, located in a picturesque colonial building in the Baixa district, is the main shopping hub in Maputo. You can find fabric, clothing, fresh seafood, fruits and vegetables, and many household staples. Prices are negotiable, so don’t be afraid to bargain. But stay alert and beware of pickpockets.
4. Visit a museum. Maputo has several modest, albeit unique museums. The Central Train Station is Maputo’s landmark building and a fabulous work of architectural design. It’s an operating train depot, which also houses a museum detailing the history of Mozambique’s railways and communication systems. Inside are several old steamer trains and other historical photos and artifacts. The National Art Museum has a small but respectable collection of Mozambican art, including several large canvases by world-renowned artist, Malangatana. The Natural History Museum (Museu de História Natural) has an interesting collection of stuffed animals and wooden carvings. The National Money Museum (Museu Nacional da Moeda) holds a collection of the many currencies that have circulated in Mozambique’s history; they include barter tokens, gold dust, and current-day bills. Lastly, the Iron House (Casa do Ferro), designed by Gustave Eiffel, architect of Paris’ Eiffel Tower, contains a small display of artifacts from some of Mozambique’s medieval cities and trading posts. The house was originally intended to be the Governor’s home, but because of the all-metal structure it was too hot to live in under Maputo’s tropical conditions. Luckily, now it’s air conditioned.
5. Go on the Bairro Mafalala Walking Tour. This 2-hour walking tour takes visitors through the Mafalala bairro, Maputo’s oldest township or informal settlement. Mafalala lacks the affluence of other neighborhoods, but is a source of national pride and rich historical, political and cultural roots. The tour includes a stop at the house of the late Samora Machel, the Mozambican revolutionary and its first president post-independence, a visit with a local curandeiro (healer), and a traditional dance performance. This tour is a must for anyone interested in learning about Mozambique’s history and struggle for independence.
6. Enjoy Mozambican music. Mozambican music has thrived since independence and there is no shortage of venues for music lovers. Each Thursday night, from 6:30 to 9:00 pm, a different local band plays live music at the Associação dos Musicos Moçambicanos. The crowd is young and mostly local (with a few expats and tourists tossed in), the vibe is laidback and fun, and the music a mix of hip hop, Afro beats, and reggae. For the jazz fans, the Africa Bar has live jazz on Thursday nights. Chez Rango, a lounge inside the Central Train Station, is the place to go for live jazz on Saturday nights. Nucleo de Arte has a DJ and live bands performing on Sunday evenings. In fact, most restaurants have DJs or live music performances on weekend nights.
7. Eat fresh seafood. If you’re a seafood lover, Mozambique will not disappoint. Maputo’s Mercado do Peixe is the place to go for fresh seafood. From fish, prawns, and lobster to crab, clams and calamari plucked straight from the water, this place has it all. The market is housed in a new waterfront building where seafood is sold by the kilogram and cleaned upon request for an additional fee. If you don’t speak Portuguese, it pays to go with a local who can help you negotiate price. And if you don’t feel like cooking, your seafood and a variety of side dishes can be cooked on site for you. The market’s waterfront patio is the perfect place to sit with friends and eat, drink and enjoy the views. Service can be slow, so don’t go there famished, but it’s a fun time, especially on Sundays. If long waits aren’t your thing, several waterfront restaurants can meet your desire for great seafood, including Campo di Mare, Sagres, Docks, and the Maputo Waterfront Restaurant.
8. Delight in the beaches, water sports, and marine life. Mozambique is known for its beaches, but for the best ones you’ll have to leave Maputo. Xai Xai beach is popular with tourists and closet to Maputo at only two hours away. A coral reef running parallel to the shore offers good snorkeling and protects the beach from strong waves. The nearby Bilene beach also offers calm waters and relaxed vibes. Jet skiing, scuba diving, sports fishing, sailing and canoeing are among the many activities enjoyed there. Ponta d’Ouro is known for its great beach, party atmosphere, dolphins, offshore diving, and deep-sea fishing. Tofo is another popular beach town, located about 4 hours north of Maputo and known for its reefs and excellent diving and snorkeling. It is one of the best places to see manta rays, sea turtles, and whale sharks. Vilanculos, accessible from Maputo by a one-hour flight or eight-hour bus ride, is the Mozambican water sports capital. Kite surfing, horseback riding and traditional dhow boat safaris are also popular there. Vilanculos is the gateway to the Bazaruto Archipelago, known for its fabulous beaches.
9. Explore the islands. Inhaca island is a beautiful oasis located just 30 miles across the bay from Maputo. It’s suitable for a day trip or weekend getaway. Inhaca’s Santa Maria beach is popular with locals and tourists wanting to enjoy its soft sand and clear waters. Catembe island is located on the southern side of Maputo Bay, about 15 minutes from Maputo by ferry. Though not as nice or as popular as Inhaca, it also offers great views of the Maputo skyline. The ferries to Inhaca and Catembe leave from ferry ports in downtown Maputo. For those willing to explore Mozambique’s northern reaches, numerous islands await you. The Bazaruto Archipelago is comprised of five islands: Bazaruto, Santa Carolina also known as Paradise Island, Benguerra, Margaruque and Bangue. The Bazaruto Archipelago is Mozambique’s only underwater national park and there are several dive sites around the islands. Even further north are the Quirimbas islands, an unspoiled chain of 32 islands, known for its coral reefs, white sandy beaches, and crystal blue waters inhabited by dolphins, whales and endangered dugongs (sea cows).
10. Search for wildlife on safari. The Maputo Special Reserve is located about 60 miles southeast of Maputo and includes 350 African elephants, birds, zebra, antelope, crocodiles, hippos, small bucks, bushpigs, baboons, and unique plant life. There are also marshes and two rivers inside the reserve, which are home to a variety of fish life. Gorongosa National Park, in central Mozambique, is home to lions, elephants, buffalo, zebras, bucks, hippos and crocodiles, as well as more than 400 species of birds. Its conservation programs are supported with tourist dollars. Niassa Reserve, in northern Mozambique, is home to the endangered African wild dog, elephant, sable antelope, buffalo, wildebeest, zebra and many species of birds. This protected area is twice the size of South Africa’s Kruger Park and boasts stunning natural scenery. Meculas Mountain (4,728 feet high) is located inside the reserve.

The post The Top 10 Things to Do in Mozambique first appeared on The Travel Sista.

As a seafood lover, I’d heard about Mozambique’s great seafood and was excited to see what it had to offer. It didn’t disappoint. I ate my fair share of fish, prawns and crab, both grilled and cooked in curry, garlic and peri peri sauce. But my favorite seafood experience was at the Mercado do Peixe (Maputo Fish Market).

In Maputo, Sunday is the favorite day to relax and socialize with family and friends at the Fish Market, a lively waterfront attraction popular with locals and tourists alike. The market is located in a newer seaside building where local vendors sell fresh fish, lobster, prawns, calamari, crab, clams and more, pulled straight from the waters surrounding Mozambique. Seafood is sold by the kilogram and can also be cleaned on request. Prices are definitely negotiable and affordable (our group of five paid the equivalent of $55 USD for one kilogram each of clams, calamari, and prawns, two whole fish, and one crab for me).

Opposite from the market is a waterfront patio with umbrella-covered tables and seating. Several restaurants there will cook your seafood for an additional fee (approximately 150-180 Meticais per kilogram [the equivalent of $3.00 USD], cash only). They also offer a number of accompaniments, including salad, rice, and fries, as well as water, sodas and alcoholic beverages. The service is slow, but the end result is delicious.

To say this seafood was fresh would be an understatement. As you can see by the smile on my face, I ate well and left happy.

Have you been to the Maputo Fish Market? What did you enjoy the most? Share your comments below.

The post Mozambique: A Day at the Maputo Fish Market first appeared on The Travel Sista.

Havana may be Cuba’s capital and largest city, but Santiago de Cuba is its cultural capital.

Nestled on the far southeastern side of the island, near the infamous Guantanamo Bay, Santiago de Cuba (Santiago) is the second largest city in Cuba, infused with Afro-Caribbean cultural and rebel influences.

It was in Santiago, where on July 26, 1953, Fidel Castro and others launched their Revolutionary movement with a failed armed attack on the Moncada Barracks. It was also in Santiago, where on January 1, 1959, Fidel Castro proclaimed the victory of the Cuban Revolution from a balcony on Santiago’s city hall. But Santiago’s revolutionary spirit was born long before Fidel ever touched foot there.

Santiago is home to Cuba’s largest Afro-Cuban population, most of whom are descended from slaves brought to Cuba from Africa and Haiti in the 1700s and 1800s to work its sugar plantations. Those slaves turned to music, dance and spirituality to survive the brutal conditions and that creolized legacy remains alive today.

In what can only be described as a secret act of rebellion, African slaves disguised their religion under acceptable Catholic symbols after their traditional religions were banned. Catholic saints came to represent Yoruban orishas (divine beings), each with distinct attributes and its own color. Today, a large number of Santiagueros practice Afro-Cuban religions, most notably Santería. You’ll often see them wearing red, white, or yellow beads, with each color representing a different saint.

Santiago is the birthplace of son, the traditional music and dance from which salsa dancing is derived, and guaguancó, a sub-genre of Cuban rumba, combining percussion, voices, and dance. The music permeates every pore of Santiago and you couldn’t escape it if you tried. From the local coffee shops and bars, to the legendary Casa de la Trova, Casa de la Musica, Casa de las Tradiciones, Casa del Caribe, and Patio de los dos abuelos, the intoxicating beats of Afro-Cuban music will draw you in and leave you wanting more.

From Havana, Santiago is a 1.5 hour flight or a long 16 hour bus ride, but it’s worth every minute. If you haven’t yet been, I encourage you to go and experience the exciting fusion of rum, music and revolution. To help you plan, here’s a list of my favorite things to do there:

1. Museo del Carnaval

If you want to learn the history of Santiago’s biggest party, held each year in late July, the Carnival Museum is the place to go. You’ll find floats, effigies, costumes, musical instruments, and more from past Carnivals. If you’re lucky, you can also catch a live folklorico dance performance on the patio. They’re typically held in the afternoon around 4:00 pm, but the schedule is irregular.

 
2. Julio de 26 Museum

The July 26 Museum commemorates that day in 1953, when more than 100 revolutionaries led by Fidel Castro stormed dictator Fulgencio Batista’s troops at Moncada Barracks, then Cuba’s second-most important military garrison. The barracks have since been converted into a school called Ciudad Escolar 26 de Julio, and the museum is located near gate 3, where the main attack took place. There are replica bullet holes at the entrance to serve as a poignant reminder of that day. The museum contains interesting historical relics, including a scale model of the barracks, diagrams and models of the attack’s planning and aftermath, and photographs of the 61 fallen men.

 
3. El Monumento Al Cimarrón

Built on a hill in the nearby town of El Cobre, the Monument to Runaway Slaves is a towering bronze and iron sculpture that honors one of Cuba’s earliest slave revolts that took place on July 24, 1731. The sculpture stands on a nganga (which means a metal pot in the “Regla de Palo Monte” Afro-Cuban religion), in which religious believers and practitioners place their offerings. El Cobre is located 14 miles outside of Santiago.

 
4. The Basílica Santuario Nacional de Nuestra Señora de La Caridad Del Cobre

Also located in El Cobre, this shrine celebrates Cuba’s virgin saint Our Lady of Charity, a black Madonna that so closely resembles the African orisha Ochún that many Cubans believe them to be one and the same.

 
5. Castillo de San Pedro de la Roca del Morro

Known locally as “El Morro”, this UNESCO World Heritage site was built in 1638 as a military fortress to defend foreign attacks, and later served as a prison. Today, it is a museum and popular tourist attraction. This well-preserved fort has several levels of terraces overlooking Santiago Bay and offers amazing panoramic views of Santiago’s coastline. Every day at sunset there is a cañonazo ceremony (firing of the cannons). El Morro is located about six miles southwest of the city center.

El Morro Fort, Santiago

6. House of Popular Religions

This cultural museum allows visitors to explore and learn about Cuba’s various Afro-Cuban religions, including Santería which is the most widely practiced. The museum houses a variety of religious icons, with displays symbolizing the syncretism of Catholic religious symbols with African orishas — images of Jesus Christ can be seen juxtaposed with ceremonial machetes and stuffed reptiles used in Santería ceremonies.

 
7. Casa del Caribe

This is the place to be on Sunday evenings from 5:00 to 9:00 pm for the weekly rumba. It’s a high energy, action packed music and dance performance celebrating the deities of Afro-Cuban religion. This cultural institution has dance lessons and events most days of the week. They also organize the Festival del Caribe and the Fiesta del Fuego every July.

 
8. Parque Céspedes

This square is the social hub of Santiago, where locals come to see and be seen — and to enjoy the open wifi signal. You can expect to see anything here, from live music and dance performances, to vendors selling roasted peanuts, to people walking, talking, flirting, and laughing. The square is surrounded by several colonial era buildings, including the Ayuntamiento or Town Hall, the former San Carlos Club, the Casa Granda Hotel, and the beautiful Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (which holds the record for being the most reconstructed and remodeled building in the city).

 
9. Parque Alameda / Malecón

This park is the center of the Malecón (boardwalk) and features a playground, gym, palm trees and public wi-fi. It’s a great place to relax and people watch or take a stroll along the seafront. There’s even a restaurant that looks over the bay.

 
10. Padre Pico Steps

These steps are the gateway to the Tivolí neighborhood, Santiago’s picturesque old French quarter, and one of its main attractions. The 52 steps are more than 100 years old and often the site of rousing dominoes games.

 
11. Plaza de Revolución

This square is anchored by an impressive statue of Afro-Cuban hero and native son, Antonio Maceo. Maceo sits atop his horse and is surrounded by 23 raised machetes. There is also a small museum which contains information on his life. Directly across the street is a large billboard of Fidel Castro with the city’s motto: “rebelde ayer, hospitalaria hoy, heroica siempre” (rebellious yesterday, hospitable today, heroic always).

Statute of Afro-Cuban hero Antonio Maceo

12. Enjoy Santiago’s People and Nightlife

Santiagueros are very welcoming and friendly, and they will be the highlight of your visit to Santiago. Go to the local coffee shops, parks and bars where they hang out. Play dominoes. Take salsa and rumba lessons. Chat with them and learn about their fascinating history, religion, and culture (granted you will struggle if you don’t speak Spanish since most don’t speak English; but they’ll go out of their way to try and there’s always Google Translate). Chances are they’ll invite you to their home or to a party, and you’ll leave with new lifelong friends.

And when it comes to nightlife, Santiago is second to none. There is a dizzying number of bars, clubs and other venues with live jazz, salsa, son, and other Caribbean music, all of course with spectacular dancing. So let your hair down and have fun. But don’t say I didn’t warn you. Santiago is addicting.

Have you been to Santiago de Cuba? What are your favorite things to do there? Share in the comments below.

The post Why You Need to Visit Santiago de Cuba first appeared on The Travel Sista.

In 2014, former US President Barack Obama announced sweeping changes to America’s policy towards Cuba. The United States re-established diplomatic ties and re-opened the American embassy in Havana. Obama also authorized travel by general license for all 12 categories set forth in the Cuban Assets Control Regulations, eliminating the need to apply for a specific license for most travelers. Though tourism remained banned, Americans could plan individual “People-to-People” trips with a full schedule of educational exchange activities. Travelers could meet the regulatory requirements with museum visits, cultural sightseeing, conversations with Cubans about their society, and keeping a daily journal. These relaxed rules made travel to Cuba easier and more affordable for the average American, who prior thereto was relegated to expensive group trips. It also benefitted the growing number of Cuban small business owners, including the owners of casa particulares (private lodging similar to a bed and breakfast) and paladares (private restaurants), taxi drivers and tour guides.

As many travelers were dreading, on June 16, 2017 President Donald Trump announced changes that would reverse some of the Obama era policies. The new rules, dubbed “A Better Deal for Cuba”, prohibit Individual People to People travel and any direct transactions with entities related to the Cuban military, intelligence, or security services, including state-owned hotels, restaurants, tour buses, and other businesses (the State Department will be publishing a list of prohibited entities). Trump also announced increased enforcement actions, with travelers subject to immigration checks or Treasury Department audits to ensure they fall under one of the permitted categories.

On the same day as Trump’s announcement, the Treasury Department Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) issued FAQS regarding the policy changes. Here is what we know:

1. INDIVIDUAL PEOPLE TO PEOPLE TRAVEL WILL NO LONGER BE AUTHORIZED

 As directed by Trump, within 90 days OFAC intends to issue regulations that will end individual People to People travel to Cuba. The announced changes do not take effect until the new regulations are issued. The new policy will not result in changes to the other (non-individual people-to-people) authorizations for travel.

For persons with pre-planned trips, there is no need to cancel. As long as you have completed at least one travel-related transaction (i.e., purchasing a flight or reserving lodging) prior to the June 16, 2017 announcement, you are exempt from the new rules (provided the travel-related transactions are consistent with then current OFAC regulations).

2. GROUP PEOPLE TO PEOPLE TRAVEL WILL STILL BE AUTHORIZED

According to current OFAC regulations, travelers utilizing the People to People authorization must maintain a full-time schedule of educational exchange activities that are intended to enhance contact with the Cuban people, support civil society in Cuba, or promote the Cuban people’s independence from Cuban authorities, and that will result in meaningful interaction between the traveler and individuals in Cuba.

Group People to People travel will still be allowed, but it must take place under the auspices of an organization that  sponsors such people-to-people exchanges and travelers must be chaperoned by an organization representative to ensure they maintain a full-time schedule of educational exchange activities.

3. INDIVIDUAL TRAVEL UNDER THE SUPPORT FOR THE CUBAN PEOPLE CATEGORY WILL STILL BE AUTHORIZED

The Support for the Cuban People category encompasses travel-related transactions and other transactions that are intended to provide support for the Cuban people, which include activities of recognized human rights organizations; independent organizations designed to promote a rapid, peaceful transition to democracy; and individuals and non-governmental organizations (NGOs) that promote independent activity intended to strengthen civil society in Cuba.  The traveler’s schedule of activities must not include free time or recreation in excess of that consistent with a full-time schedule in Cuba.

Picture of the night @MarioDB and I hammered out the new Cuba policy. Thankful for his leadership! #cubancoffee #BetterDealforCuba pic.twitter.com/ukpQJo2eev

— Marco Rubio (@marcorubio) June 16, 2017

US Senator Marco Rubio, who co-authored the new policy, clarified via Twitter that individual travel under the Support for the Cuban People category is authorized as long as travelers stay in privately owned lodging rather than military run hotels.

& headline not https://t.co/BJQeStuAh2 for Cuban people category allows individual travel, but can’t stay at military controlled hotel 3/3

— Marco Rubio (@marcorubio) June 17, 2017

Individual Americans can travel to #Cuba under Support for the Cuban people category but must use privately owned lodging like AirBnB 4/5

— Marco Rubio (@marcorubio) June 16, 2017

However, in order to qualify under this category, individual travelers will seemingly need to have more engagement with NGOS, organizations and individuals working to promote democracy and/or to improve the lives of the Cuban populace.

4. AUTHORIZED TRAVEL BY CRUISE SHIP OR PASSENGER VESSEL WILL STILL BE ALLOWED

Travelers will still be able to engage in authorized travel to Cuba by cruise ship or passenger vessel, provided it is not with a prohibited entity.

5. TRAVELERS MAY STILL PURCHASE AIRLINE TICKETS FOR AUTHORIZED TRAVEL TO CUBA

The new policy does not change how persons subject to U.S. jurisdiction traveling to Cuba pursuant to the 12 categories of authorized travel may purchase their airline tickets.

6. TRAVELERS MAY STILL PURCHASE AND IMPORT UNLIMITED AMOUNTS OF CIGARS AND ALCOHOL INTO THE UNITED STATES FOR PERSONAL USE

Under current OFAC regulations, travelers engaged in authorized Cuba travel may buy and import unlimited dollar amounts of Cuban cigars and alcohol in accompanied baggage, provided it is for personal use only. It is unclear whether this policy will change under Trump’s new rules, but as of now it is still effective.

WHAT THIS MEANS FOR FUTURE TRAVEL TO CUBA

Once you peel back the layers, Trump’s new changes represent only a partial shift from Obama policies. Individual trips may be more difficult to plan and coordinate, but they are still allowed. And as before, individuals traveling to Cuba are required to keep records of their Cuba-related transactions for at least five years in case of a Treasury audit. Now more than ever, it’s important that they do so.

What are your thoughts on the new Cuba travel policy? Does it affect your travel plans? Share your comments below.

The post What Trump’s New Cuba Travel Rules Mean For You first appeared on The Travel Sista.

Travel Blog Exchange (TBEX) is the world’s largest gathering of travel bloggers, writers, new media content creators, and travel industry professionals. Each year, TBEX partners with host destinations in North America, Europe and Asia and brings together the travel community to learn, network and do business. At this year’s North American conference, TBEX announced that it would make its first foray into Africa. TBEX Africa will be held in late July 2018 in Harare, Zimabawe, hosted by the Zimbabwe Tourism Authority (ZTA). 

Needless to say, as an avid traveler and lover of the African continent, I was thrilled at the announcement. Sadly, my excitement was not shared by all. Almost immediately there was a barrage of complaints by several bloggers who believed that TBEX’s decision to partner with the ZTA was unethical and irresponsible due to Zimbabwe’s history of human rights violations and corruption. In their opinion, TBEX collaborating with the ZTA is akin to aiding Zimbabwe’s oppressive regime. One even suggested that conference attendees could be at risk since their names and information would be shared with the government. To fully understand the controversy surrounding Zimbabwe, and why I disagree with the TBEX Africa detractors, some historical context is in order.

ZIMBABWE’S CONTENTIOUS AND COMPLICATED POLITICAL HISTORY

Zimbabwe is a landlocked country in southern Africa, bordered by South Africa to the south, Botswana to the west and southwest, Zambia to the northwest, and Mozambique to the east and northeast. Harare is the capital and largest city. Like most African countries, Zimbabwe has a colonial past.

In 1890, white English and Boer colonialists entered Rhodesia (as Zimbabwe was named before independence) and seized land and cattle belonging to the indigenous black population. Within 30 years, the 3% white minority controlled 75% of the economically viable land, while the 97% black majority resided on crowded reserves largely comprised of unfertile land. The land imbalance led to several ensuing wars which lasted off and on for nearly 100 years.

In 1980, the United Kingdom formally granted independence to Zimbabwe. As a part of the negotiated deal, the British and American governments made commitments to assist the Zimbabwean government financially with land reform efforts, which under the new constitution would take place in a willing seller, willing buyer context. That same year, Robert Mugabe was elected as Zimbabwe’s first prime minister and he eventually became president in 1987. Mugabe has remained in power for 30 years.

In 2000, disgruntled with the pace of land reform efforts and disputes over pledged funds, Mugabe’s government passed a Land Acquisition Act for compulsory acquisition without compensation. Landless blacks began to invade farms and seize white-owned land, with no reprisal by the government. Tapiwa Mabaye, Land Reform in Zimbabwe

In 2001, the United States began imposing targeted financial and travel sanctions on Zimbabwe’s government, as well as selected government officials and financial institutions. The sanctions have remained in place and were most recently renewed by President Barack Obama. U.S. Department of State, Bureau of African Affairs Fact Sheet 

HUMAN RIGHTS VIOLATIONS AND THE EFFICACY OF SANCTIONS

There have been widespread reports of human rights violations in Zimbabwe. According to Human Rights Watch, police use excessive force to crush dissent and violate the basic rights of citizens, journalists, and government opponents. Amnesty International’s 2016/2017 report outlines numerous human rights violations committed by Mugabe’s Zimbabwe African National Union – Patriotic Front (ZANU-PF) party , including harassment, intimidation, assaults, arrests, protest bans, abductions, and torture.

To be sure, these oppressive actions are problematic and incompatible with the democratic values the U.S. vows to hold dear. But in the height of hypocrisy, the U.S. government recently signed a $110 billion arms deal with Saudi Arabia, a country with a long and well-known history of similar human rights violations. As documented by Human Rights Watch, Saudi Arabia has engaged in unlawful airstrikes in Yemen, some of which may constitute war crimes; repressed pro-reform activists and peaceful dissidents, sentencing them to long prison terms; discriminates against women and girls in most aspects of daily living; and perpetrates systemic violations of due process and fair trial rights of adults and pubescent teens; and performs mass executions, including public beheadings. Similarly, the United Arab Emirates and China, both countries with longstanding and serious human rights problems, rank among the top 30 trade partners with the U.S.A. It’s difficult to understand, much less defend, such blatant double standards.

What is clear is that history has shown that sanctions and boycotts are largely ineffective in changing a form of government. Instead, boycotts and sanctions punish innocent people who are often the targets of oppressive regimes. Zimbabwe is no exception. In 2013, the ZANU-PF party admitted the unemployment rate was 60%, though by other estimates it’s as high as 95%. The World Bank estimates that 75% of the population lives in poverty and a majority survives on less than two dollars per day. Rather than cripple the Zimbabwe government, U.S. sanctions have further impoverished the Zimbabwean people and made them less likely or able to fight for regime change. Sanctions have also turned some into harsh critics of the United States.

MY FIRSTHAND EXPERIENCE

I was blessed to travel to Zimbabwe in 2013 and experience its beauty and splendor firsthand. I checked off a bucket list item at Victoria Falls (aka Mosi-Oa-Tunya Falls in the local Lozi language) and swam in the Devil’s Pool at the edge of the Falls. It was an exhilarating, once in a lifetime experience and probably my favorite travel adventure to date. I drank Zambezi beer while cruising on the Zambezi river at sunset and watched the blue sky transform into fiery bursts of orange and red like I’ve never seen. And I marveled as I watched warthogs freely graze outside my hotel room and saw a mother baboon groom her baby as I walked past on the sidewalk.

But I also saw how boycotts against the Zimbabwe government have decimated the tourist industry. The first sign was at my hotel, where I never saw more than five people at the pool, restaurant and bar. As I typically do when I travel, I chatted up with the hotel staff about their life in Zimbabwe and the tourism industry there. My waiter shared that he regularly works 12 to 14 hour shifts and walks 2.5 hours each way to and from work. On the day we talked, my $10 tip was the first he’d received that day. He mused that his life was not easy, but he considered himself lucky because at least he had a job unlike so many others. I also talked to several street vendors who shared their difficulty selling their wares and earning a living due to the lack of visitors. These are the real life consequences so often lost or ignored in political debates.

In the case of Zimbabwe, boycotts also have other collateral effects. Zimbabwe is one of Africa’s most hardest hit countries when it comes to illegal poaching of big game, as some locals resort to poaching in order to feed their families. The absence of tourists also means less funds for wildlife conservation and more reliance on legal big game hunting to make up for the shortfall. In short, tourists provide security for Zimbabwe’s people and its abundant wildlife, because they deter poaching and hunting.

THE CASE FOR TBEX ZIMBABWE

Zimbabweans are warm, kind and proud people and they’ve paid a heavy price for the political chaos of the last 17 years. They deserve the opportunity to show off their country to conference attendees, and to also share their culture and heritage, as well as their tales of tribulation and triumph. They are my primary reason for attending and I will be there to support them.

Secondly, Africa has some remarkable bloggers (and aspiring bloggers) who rarely have the opportunity to attend TBEX in North America, Europe or Asia due to the time and expense involved in traveling. Having the conference in their backyard will afford them the opportunity to learn and network with other bloggers and industry professionals, and to gain exposure to a wider audience. In turn, the travel media community can become better informed about their countries and the complex issues they face. Ideally, it will lead to collaborations, both to promote the tourist attractions but also to brainstorm on the hard hitting issues presented by the situation in Zimbabwe and the continent as a whole.

Lastly, Zimbabwe is a beautiful country with an exhaustive list of attractions and activities. From waterfalls that span two countries to Chinhoyi Caves, ancient ruins, balancing rock formations, national game parks, bustling outdoor markets, and a modern capital city, there is something for everyone. And for the adventurous, thrill seeker types, there’s white water rafting, bungee jumping, ziplining, a bridge swing, a bridge slide and helicopter rides over the Falls.

Furthermore, because Zimbabwe, Zambia and Botswana share borders, it is relatively easy to visit three countries in one trip. In the past, visas were an impediment because each country required a separate visa, which was an added hassle and expense. However, the countries recently re-introduced the KAZA Uni-Visa, a 30-day joint visa which allows visitors to freely travel between Zimbabwe and Zambia and to take day trips to Botswana via the Kazungula border crossing, where the borders of Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Nambia meet in the middle of the Zambezi River. The cost is an affordable $50.

TBEX Africa will present the chance for not just Zimbabwe, but for the entire southern Africa region to display its magnificent and diverse people, cultures, landscapes, and tourist attractions. I’m excited for the region, as well as the conference attendees who’ve never been to the continent. They are in for a treat.

Sunset over the Zambezi River

Do you plan to attend TBEX Africa? Why or why not? Share your comments below.

The post Why I’m Attending TBEX Zimbabwe and Why You Should Too first appeared on The Travel Sista.

I arrived in Dakar around 2:00 am, and my hosts Phyllis and Eddy from Diasporic Soul were ready for me with dibi and rice to feed my tummy. Dibi, one of Senegal’s favorite street foods, is grilled lamb, cut into small pieces and usually served with grilled onions, mustard sauce and bread. We stayed up talking until after 5:00am and I got a firsthand taste of Senegalese teranga too (Teranga is a Wolof word meaning hospitality). 

I woke up in early afternoon to the most amazing smell and learned that I would be treated to Senegal’s national dish, Thebu Jenn. Thebu Jenn is a flavorful fish and rice dish served with a variety of vegetables and it comes in white and red (tomato-based) variations. I had the white and it was heavenly. It was served with bissap sauce, made from hibiscus leaves with the consistency of creamed spinach, and xoon, the coveted crunchy rice from the bottom of the pot.  

Thebu Jenn (aka Theboudienne), Senegal’s national dish

Over the next few days, I had Yassa Poulet and Poisson – fish and chicken versions of the popular dish made with onions, lemon juice and garlic and served with rice.

But the highlight was my attendance at a “ngente” or baby naming ceremony. It was a special day where family and friends gathered for a day of good food and celebration. After the baby girl was named, the men killed two sheep in the baby’s honor (I didn’t watch and only saw after it was done). Then the ladies all went to work preparing the meal. They cleaned the lamb, cut vegetables, and cleaned and cooked rice. It was fascinating to watch them work together and prepare a meal for 30+ people, all while dressed to the nines. The final product, Thebu Yapp, was the best meal I had during my time in Senegal.

Lamb slaughtered for baby naming ceremony

Senegalese ladies preparing meal at baby naming ceremony

The final product – Thebu Yapp

Have you tasted Senegalese cuisine? What is your favorite dish? Share your comments below.

The post Senegalese Cuisine: Where Food and Culture Intersect first appeared on The Travel Sista.

African Renaissance Monument

Senegal is a country in West Africa, which surrounds The Gambia on three sides and is bordered on the north by Mauritania, on the east by Mali, and on the south by Guinea and Guinea-Bissau. Dakar is the capital and largest city of Senegal, and it sits on the Cap-Vert peninsula, the westernmost point of Africa.

Although Senegal is a majority Muslim country, with more than 90% of the population practicing Islam, the vibe is vibrant and diverse. Culturally, the traditional/religious and the modern/worldly live side by side in relative peace. It’s not uncommon to see men in traditional garb prostrate on the sidewalk to pray, while others dressed in secular clothing pass by. Likewise, one may hear the Muslim Call to Prayer while exiting a nightclub in the early morning.

But despite this clash of cultures, one thing seems universal — the Senegalese take great pride in their appearance. The women dress in elaborate, colorful outfits with matching headwraps, even for a trip to the market. The men are earnest about staying in shape and most are tall, lean and muscular. The Senegalese take their reputation for great hospitality just as seriously. They are known for their “teranga”, a Wolof word which characterizes the value of sharing and treating the other as the most important person in the world. If you’re lucky enough to befriend a Senegalese, chances are you’ll be treated to a cultural or culinary treat. This travel guide will help you plan your trip to Senegal so you can experience Teranga firsthand.

 GETTING THERE AND GETTING AROUND

At only 7 hour and 15 minutes from New York to Dakar, a flight to Senegal is one of the shortest from the United States to the African continent. Delta and South African Airways fly direct to Dakar from the United States.  Jet Blue, Emirates, Turkish Airlines, and a host of other airlines offer connecting flights to Dakar.

The Léopold Sédar Senghor International Airport is the largest airport in Senegal and is situated near the town of Yoff, north of Dakar. The drive to the city is approximately 20 minutes. Taxis are readily found outside the airport and rates should be negotiated beforehand; fares to most locations in the city should be no more than 3,000 to 5,000 CFAs. Taxis are cheap, safe and everywhere making it easy to explore the city.

VISAS

Senegal no longer requires visas for U.S. citizens for stays of fewer than 90 days. For longer stays, U.S. citizens should obtain visas from the Senegalese Embassy in Washington DC or the Senegalese Consulate in New York.

CURRENCY

The official currency of Senegal is the West African CFA Franc (CFA), pronounced SAY-fah. CFA notes are available in denominations of 10,000, 5,000 and 1,000 and coins are available in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50, 25, 10, 5 and 1. At current exchange rates (as of 3/1/2017), 1,000 CFA equal approximately $1.60 USD. Currency can be exchanged in banks and exchange bureaus in Dakar.

 WEATHER

Senegal is mainly a sunny and dry country with well-defined dry and humid seasons. The dry season (December to April) is dominated by hot, dry, harmattan wind and temperatures reach an average of 78 degrees high and 64 degrees low. The rainy season runs from June to October, with August and September being the rainiest months. Temperatures during the rainy season average 86 degrees high and 76 degrees low.

WHERE TO STAY

Most of Dakar’s Western-style hotels are located either in the downtown area or in the beachfront neighborhoods of Les Almadies and Ngor. Airbnbs and vacation rentals are also lodging options.

 LANGUAGE

Senegal is a multilingual country. As a former French colony, French is the official language of Senegal. Wolof is the most widely spoken language, either as a first or second language. Many other native languages are spoken or recognized. English speakers are limited so you would do well to learn a few words of French or Wolof before you arrive. Common greetings include  Asalaam Ailaikum (Arabic), Nan ga Def (Wolof), and Bonjour (French).

Goree Island

ACTIVITIES

Goree Island (“Ile de Gorée”)/House of Slaves

Goree Island is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the location of the House of Slaves, a museum and memorial to the Atlantic slave trade. The House of Slaves is best known for its Door of No Return, meant to memorialize the final exit point of captured slaves before their forced journey to the Americas. The House of Slaves is open daily, except Mondays, from 10:30 am to 6:00 pm. Ferries to the Island can be taken from the terminal north of Place de l’Independance and cost 5,200 CFA for non-residents. The trip takes approximately 20 minutes.

 Lake Retba or Pink Lake (“Lac Rose”)

Nestled between white sand dunes and the Atlantic Ocean, the Pink Lake is named for its pink waters caused by Dunaliella salina bacteria. It’s known both for its unusual color and its high salt content, which at 40% in some areas, is comparable to the Dead Sea. The pink color is more visible during the dry season (from November to June) and is less visible during the rainy season (July to October). Boat tours of the lake and 4 x 4 tours of the salt dunes are available and prices are negotiable. Be sure to bring your hard bargaining skills because tourist rates are highly inflated. The Pink Lake is located about an hour outside of Dakar.

 African Renaissance Monument

This massive bronze statue sits on top of the twin hills of Collines des Mamelles on the outskirts of Dakar. The monument is a display of African pride, dedicated to the end of slavery and to Africa’s emergence from the European regimes that once ruled the continent. It is the largest statue in Africa.

 IFAN Museum of African Arts (“Musée Théodore Monod d’Art Africain”)

The IFAN Museum is one of the oldest art museums in West Africa and it includes important art collections from across Francophone Africa. It’s one of the regular locations of the Dakar Biennale (“Dak’Art – Biennale de l’Art Africain Contemporain”), a major art exhibition by contemporary African and diaspora artists that takes place every two years.

 Shopping

Dakar has a number of traditional African markets — Sandaga, HLM, Kermel and Soumbedioune — that sell seafood, vegetables, fabric, jewelry, leather goods, and artwork. Marché Sandaga is the largest and most hectic with three levels of stalls. Marché HLM is geared towards fabric and is the place to go to buy African wax print. Tailors are also available to custom fit and tailor African fashions. Marché Kermel is located near the city center and has quality artisanal goods and textiles. Marché Soumbedioune is a popular evening fish market. Fresh caught fish and seafood is hauled in between 4:00 and 6:00 pm and grilled right on the shore.

Corniche

The Corniche is the wide boulevard that runs along the Atlantic coast. It has sweeping views and is a popular place for locals and tourists to take a stroll.  It’s also a popular place for locals to exercise at the large outdoor gym.

CUISINE

If you like your food spicy and well-flavored, you will thoroughly enjoy Senegalese cuisine. Senegal’s most popular dishes are made with fish, lamb or chicken and usually include rice and vegetables. As a legacy of French rule, Senegal’s bakeries serve baguettes, croissants and other pastries that rival those in France. 

Meals

• Thiebou Jenn (also spelled as Thieboudienne, Tiep Bou Dienn, and Ceebu Jenn) is Senegal’s national dish. There are white and red (tomato-based) versions made with fish, rice, and a variety of vegetables like carrots, eggplant, cabbage, okra, sweet potatoes and cassava. It’s often served with a bissap sauce.
• Thiebou Yapp is a variation of Thiebou Jenn made with seasoned lamb and rice.
• Yassa is a spicy, lemon chicken or fish dish with carmelized onions served over rice.
• Mafé is a stew of chicken, fish, or lamb simmered in peanut butter sauce with vegetables such as yuca, yams, potatoes, carrots, or turnips. 

Drinks

• Bissap is a juice made from hibiscus leaves.
• Gingembre is a tangy drink made out from ginger root and sugar.
• Bouye is a drink made from the fruit of baobab trees. The pulp is pounded into a frothy, opaque drink that tastes slightly like a banana smoothie.
• Ataaya is a sugary mint tea usually offered to friends and visitors. It’s served in three stages called the three concoctions.

NIGHTLIFE

On weekends, Dakar has a vibrant nightlife that doesn’t get jumping until well after midnight and continues until 6:00 or 7:00 am. The strip of nightclubs on Route de Ngor in Les Almadies is a popular hotspot on Friday and Saturday nights. Thiossane, owned by Youssou N’Dour, a famous West African musician, is also a popular nightspot. He often performs at the club on Saturday nights when he is not on tour.

The Petite Coast

OTHER NEARBY AREAS TO VISIT

The Petite Coast (“Petit Côte”)

The Petite Côte is located about 45 miles southeast of Dakar and is considered one of Senegal’s best beach areas. The drive is an easy 1.5 to 2-hour drive from the city. The main tourist hub is the sandy coastline that runs from La Somone to Saly. Places to visit include:

Reserve de Bandia

The Bandia Reserve is a small private reserve with a variety of indigenous and non-indigenous wildlife, including woodland birds, green monkeys, patas monkeys, warthogs, white rhinoceros, giraffe, kudu, eland and impala.

Saly

Saly is often called Senegal’s answer to the French Riviera and in fact is a popular destination for French and European tourists. The beachside town is the center of tourism in the Petite Côte and home to many hotels, nightclubs, bars, restaurants, shops and a casino.

 La Somone

Somone is more of a low-key retreat, less glitzy and more chilled than nearby Saly. Somone’s best-known landmark, the Somone Lagoon, is an area of natural beauty at the mouth of the Atlantic ocean. A boat tour (costing 15,000 CFA) showcases a birdlife reserve and the mangrove ecosystem.

The post Senegal Travel Guide: Planning a Trip to Dakar first appeared on The Travel Sista.